Regardless of wether or not it causes the car to stall, it still provides inaccurate information to the ecu.

 

He doesnt mean the intake pipe, he means the MAF is placed on the upper charge pipe, like a foot away from the Throttle body.

 

Nice kit.

It is the alphaworks manifold coated.

 

What difference does it make though, if the car still runs good and pulls hard. Becomes irrelevant if you are also running a standalone.

 

Difference is when you have the maf on your air intake pipe you have already measured that air flow and sent it to the ecu, when you take that air away that your computer thinks its there, your left with alot of fuel and little air. Can kill rev's durning shifts or stall when you blow off into idel. Not saying it will happen to you or anything just speaking hypotheticlly.

 

With a stand-alone it becomes irrelevant only because most stand-alones use a MAP based system which doesn't care what's vented or isn't, but only what kind of pressure is in the intake manifold.

With a MAF based car, even if you use a stand-alone, the sensor is metering air that it thinks is going into the motor even if it isn't. The end result is a "loss of air" vs the amout of fuel the ECU thinks it should be sending to accomodate for it. This causes a RICH engagement once you get back on the gas. The overly rich signal is instantly compensated by the ECU to a point where it actually leans the car out to a point where it's almost at 17 or so for the AFR. So all in all, he is right, the car is reading incorrect information and running differently according to that. But at the same time, it's not so major to a point where blown motors or turbos are expected. It just takes away from some of the smoothness in the streetability.

The reason why we don't put the MAF sensor in the charge pipe is because of the heat and boost. The pressure will render it slightly inaccurate, but on a very hot day the air temps can get pretty high. There's a chance it can damage the MAF sensor. Theres also the issue with the crankcase ventilation putting a little bit of oil/sludge into the turbo compressor housing. Very small amounts will get atomized and away it goes into the charge pipes. The prolong use of small amounts of oil hitting the MAF sensor will cause it to eventually fail or become highly inaccurate.

If you use a catch can, and keep the air temps down, it's not a bad solution. Oil and heat are the enemy on this one. It's usually just cheaper and more reliable to put the MAF on the intake pipe instead, and deal with the atmospheric bov and nothing else. This is why most companies go with this route. Hopefully this helps you all.

-Joe

 

Isn't the S-AFC setup in line with throttle position or RPM? So when you hit 4000 RPM and the oem ecu goes into open loop, the S-AFC takes over doesn't it?

 

NICE!

 

That was some good info. Joe.

 

Joe that was some seriously good info.

You saved me alot of time asking questions and researching.
But for the MAF on the intake pipe, how do you deal with it?
Do you need a standalone system? Like emanage?

 

^^e-manage is a piggy back as most of the other systems that have been used on the tC. ZPI switched over to the HKS BOV, and it seems to work wonders.

 

NICE.....Finally some else gets the kit other than me. Now people start to notice. I love my kit as well.

CONGRATS!!!

 

We use a piggy-back solution, as with basically every other companies does out there.

There's no way to completely fix the problem with an atmospheric bov unless you switch to a MAP system (basically switching to a full stand-alone). Piggy backs are more usesd for fuel tuning, and some ignition tuning on top of that. The other solution is to switch to a recirculated blow-off valve setup so the mad actually starts metering air more correctly.

 

What if we used something like this to modify the MAF sensor output to the ECU instead of converting to MAP and getting the EMS? I'm sure some people don't want to get rid of MAF for some reason and this might work, but I'm not buying it to find out.

 

has anyone heard when sound-performance other turbo kits are coming out?

 

Other kits as in more kits for the tC? Or as inthe tuner kit and etc.

Did you order one?

If you mean the tuner kit mine should be done within the next month or two. Ill keep everyone posted when the project begins. Crossing my fingers for close to 400whp pr at least 350whp w/o any internal work.

 

Hey Paul you said mine was the Alpha works and I told it is not. Take a look again the one with the T4 turbo Tubonetics turbo. Look at his wastegate and look at where mine is.

https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...ccc48896afa357

 

[quote="paul_dezod"]Nice kit.

It is the alphaworks manifold coated.[/quote

Then again it looks pretty close to it

 

tuner kit?? 350whp??? why wasn't I aware of this when I ordered mine. Anywho, Cdub how's the kit doing? still running good? any complaints?

 

I love your black pipes man, looks clean and sutble, just the way I like it. Anyways, I think all the companies offering turbo kits should offer a recirculated BOV option for those that don't want to deal with rich fuel issues.