t3 60-1*UPDATE/PIX PG3*
im getting a t3 60-1 .63 a/r here real soon and wanted to know how well that would work on a fully built 2.4ltr 2az-fe? will be running 18psi w/ equal length mani, and 3" down pipe. did some searching on other forums, but only found built hondas running them. cant really compare cause of the differance in displacement. if any srt4 owners are running this please chime in. would love to know at what rpm 18 psi hits?
Originally Posted by malloynx
did you get a BB or non. the 2.4l is a good size 4 cylinder. i got a 60trim coming myself. i'm thinking you'll see full boost around 3700rpms.
Brett, you're getting worked up over nothing.
Keep in mind, the turbo I have is a bushing as well. I wanted the 35r but the turbo shop talked me out of it.
1. It's only 400-800 rpm difference in peak spool time.
2. The bushing turbo doesn't need the same maintenance as the ball bearing.
3. The bushing turbo only costs 200 - 400 to rebuild vs 800 - 1000 on the ball bearing.
Once you get properly tuned, the only place you'll notice the difference in on a dyno sheet because you'll see the exact RPM where boost comes in. Next time you drive, even a stock tC, watch the tach between 3k and 4k at WOT in 1st gear and tell me that you'd care if your boost was that much faster? Keep in mind that once you shift, your car will not go lower than 4500 RPM's between gears so you'll effectively be at full boost almost instantly in every gear but first.
Keep in mind, the turbo I have is a bushing as well. I wanted the 35r but the turbo shop talked me out of it.
1. It's only 400-800 rpm difference in peak spool time.
2. The bushing turbo doesn't need the same maintenance as the ball bearing.
3. The bushing turbo only costs 200 - 400 to rebuild vs 800 - 1000 on the ball bearing.
Once you get properly tuned, the only place you'll notice the difference in on a dyno sheet because you'll see the exact RPM where boost comes in. Next time you drive, even a stock tC, watch the tach between 3k and 4k at WOT in 1st gear and tell me that you'd care if your boost was that much faster? Keep in mind that once you shift, your car will not go lower than 4500 RPM's between gears so you'll effectively be at full boost almost instantly in every gear but first.
Originally Posted by Dyltone
Brett, you're getting worked up over nothing.
Keep in mind, the turbo I have is a bushing as well. I wanted the 35r but the turbo shop talked me out of it.
1. It's only 400-800 rpm difference in peak spool time.
2. The bushing turbo doesn't need the same maintenance as the ball bearing.
3. The bushing turbo only costs 200 - 400 to rebuild vs 800 - 1000 on the ball bearing.
Once you get properly tuned, the only place you'll notice the difference in on a dyno sheet because you'll see the exact RPM where boost comes in. Next time you drive, even a stock tC, watch the tach between 3k and 4k at WOT in 1st gear and tell me that you'd care if your boost was that much faster? Keep in mind that once you shift, your car will not go lower than 4500 RPM's between gears so you'll effectively be at full boost almost instantly in every gear but first.
Keep in mind, the turbo I have is a bushing as well. I wanted the 35r but the turbo shop talked me out of it.
1. It's only 400-800 rpm difference in peak spool time.
2. The bushing turbo doesn't need the same maintenance as the ball bearing.
3. The bushing turbo only costs 200 - 400 to rebuild vs 800 - 1000 on the ball bearing.
Once you get properly tuned, the only place you'll notice the difference in on a dyno sheet because you'll see the exact RPM where boost comes in. Next time you drive, even a stock tC, watch the tach between 3k and 4k at WOT in 1st gear and tell me that you'd care if your boost was that much faster? Keep in mind that once you shift, your car will not go lower than 4500 RPM's between gears so you'll effectively be at full boost almost instantly in every gear but first.
Originally Posted by Scott23
I have this same size turbo in my tc. It not a BB turbo and I have full boost around 3500 rpms at 10 pounds. If you have a good manifold you should have full boost by 3500 rpms.


Originally Posted by Brett
Originally Posted by Dyltone
Brett, you're getting worked up over nothing.
Keep in mind, the turbo I have is a bushing as well. I wanted the 35r but the turbo shop talked me out of it.
1. It's only 400-800 rpm difference in peak spool time.
2. The bushing turbo doesn't need the same maintenance as the ball bearing.
3. The bushing turbo only costs 200 - 400 to rebuild vs 800 - 1000 on the ball bearing.
Once you get properly tuned, the only place you'll notice the difference in on a dyno sheet because you'll see the exact RPM where boost comes in. Next time you drive, even a stock tC, watch the tach between 3k and 4k at WOT in 1st gear and tell me that you'd care if your boost was that much faster? Keep in mind that once you shift, your car will not go lower than 4500 RPM's between gears so you'll effectively be at full boost almost instantly in every gear but first.
Keep in mind, the turbo I have is a bushing as well. I wanted the 35r but the turbo shop talked me out of it.
1. It's only 400-800 rpm difference in peak spool time.
2. The bushing turbo doesn't need the same maintenance as the ball bearing.
3. The bushing turbo only costs 200 - 400 to rebuild vs 800 - 1000 on the ball bearing.
Once you get properly tuned, the only place you'll notice the difference in on a dyno sheet because you'll see the exact RPM where boost comes in. Next time you drive, even a stock tC, watch the tach between 3k and 4k at WOT in 1st gear and tell me that you'd care if your boost was that much faster? Keep in mind that once you shift, your car will not go lower than 4500 RPM's between gears so you'll effectively be at full boost almost instantly in every gear but first.
Originally Posted by Scott23
I have been busy with work and working on my house so I havn't had time. I don't know what #'s I'am making because my clutch started to slip a week before I was going to goto the dyno. So I didn't go, and now I got some little thing new to put in before I go.
Originally Posted by Scott23
I have been busy with work and working on my house so I havn't had time. I don't know what #'s I'am making because my clutch started to slip a week before I was going to goto the dyno. So I didn't go, and now I got some little thing new to put in before I go.
stock clutch???
"new little thing, eh?"
Originally Posted by Scott23
Down around Hialeah about an hour from the track. I was just up around you at the sport compact nat. for that scion vip show.




