Ti manifold.....
This manifold in sch 10 SS would probably weigh about 25 lbs minimum. The major weight savings probably comes from the flange material being made from titanium. There are a few reasons why this would be a great choice for materials
1. Weight savings, obv. However what alot of people don't think about is that the manifold being heavy also lends to forces acting upon it from the engine rocking, vibrations, heat cycling etc. These factors lead to cracks over time.
2. Material choice. Titanium can handle higher temperatures than steel and therefore can be heat cycled more (higher EGTs) and withstand the abuse longer. The strength to weight ratios for titanium based alloys are superior to almost all other metals. The fatigue properties are hands down superior making it less prone to cracking over time. Couple that with the weight and you have a manifold worth it's weight in dollars
Being that it's stronger you can run a thinner gauge when constructing a manifold. Contrary to popular belief thinner metal transfers less heat than thicker metal. Yes that is true consult your physics books. What this means is more heat retained in your exhaust stream to spool your turbo faster!
Personally I don't have the cash to make something like this and welding titanium, cutting titanium and prepping titanium is a huge pain in the ___. I prefer to use 321 SS. You can still use .065 thickness so that it retains the heat like Titanium alloy. It's alloy strength is increased due to the addition of titanium and nickel. The best part about it is that it's cheaper than titanium, cutting it is still a _____ but you can get it in bends.
Here is an example of a manifold made out of 321 Stainless .065" thickness (16 gauge)

On a 550whp EVO that I built as a road race car in 2006.

500 whp EVO that I built as a street car.


Each manifold has 22" long runners all equal length. Both of these have run on race tracks, street and at least 300 Dyno passes each with the entire manifolds glowing. Never once have they cracked. I attribute this to the materials and bracing that was designed for the manifold. About a year went into the R+D of both turbo kits. 321 SS FTW! The turbos used were FP3065 which is a 3076 with a 35R compressor wheel and a .53 ar exhaust housing as seen here.
http://store.forcedperformance.net/m..._Code=Turbo-FP
I have parts here that are made. Everyone will get to see them after the 1st of the year.
1. Weight savings, obv. However what alot of people don't think about is that the manifold being heavy also lends to forces acting upon it from the engine rocking, vibrations, heat cycling etc. These factors lead to cracks over time.
2. Material choice. Titanium can handle higher temperatures than steel and therefore can be heat cycled more (higher EGTs) and withstand the abuse longer. The strength to weight ratios for titanium based alloys are superior to almost all other metals. The fatigue properties are hands down superior making it less prone to cracking over time. Couple that with the weight and you have a manifold worth it's weight in dollars
Personally I don't have the cash to make something like this and welding titanium, cutting titanium and prepping titanium is a huge pain in the ___. I prefer to use 321 SS. You can still use .065 thickness so that it retains the heat like Titanium alloy. It's alloy strength is increased due to the addition of titanium and nickel. The best part about it is that it's cheaper than titanium, cutting it is still a _____ but you can get it in bends.
Here is an example of a manifold made out of 321 Stainless .065" thickness (16 gauge)

On a 550whp EVO that I built as a road race car in 2006.

500 whp EVO that I built as a street car.


Each manifold has 22" long runners all equal length. Both of these have run on race tracks, street and at least 300 Dyno passes each with the entire manifolds glowing. Never once have they cracked. I attribute this to the materials and bracing that was designed for the manifold. About a year went into the R+D of both turbo kits. 321 SS FTW! The turbos used were FP3065 which is a 3076 with a 35R compressor wheel and a .53 ar exhaust housing as seen here.
http://store.forcedperformance.net/m..._Code=Turbo-FP
Last edited by DezodDon; Nov 25, 2009 at 03:44 PM.
dezod s1 have reached 400s and some upgraded turbo over 500hp, i think 500+ bolt on is about right.. but i think paul's details on that would be a 2010 New Year special lol
^ no such thing a 500whp bolt on turbo kit. ur motor needs to be built. and if they want a 500whp capable kit they better throw in a gt35 with it, a thick ___ intercooler, 2.75+ intercooler piping, 3"dp/spipe obv and hopefully a TIAL bov because hks just fails that much. i think my small cold side intercooler piping is hurting me.. dezod should release a 2.5" cold side we can purchase to go along with the 2.5" hotside they have with the s1 kit.
^^ we are talking about the turbo kit, of course the built motor is not included on any turbo kit lol, and the fuel system,clutch and axles too.. you dont need a 2.75" IC for a 500hp, a gt30 can do 500-525hp, something not close to maxed out would be nice though..
oh btw, i thought dezod has 2.25" hotside and 2.5" cold?
oh btw, i thought dezod has 2.25" hotside and 2.5" cold?
anyweiz im imagining the alpha kit..
EL mani, possibly twin scroll
3" dp/spipe
pretapped compressor for wastegate
2.5" IC pipe
huge turbo
vband assembly
standalone
800cc injectors
less restrictive intake
44mm wg or dual 38
tial bov
possible blow tru maf
what else..






