Top Mount Intercooler???
#21
After reading you post I started thinking a little more there has to be a better way to do this and keep the coast donw i ran a cross this kit. Want to know what u think??? It Water to Air so there wouldnt need to change the hood, even though im doing it any way.
Last edited by motoxxx87; 07-31-2011 at 03:22 AM.
#23
OP. You could do anything, but I don't see it really being worth much of your time and money, especially on an s/c.
#24
You are VERY wrong. Subaru guys (who know what they are doing) will keep the TMIC for a long time, its only if you do a sever upgrade to a huge turbo/rotated turbo that a front mount is suggested. People think a front mount means "ZOMG MAX AIR TO AIR COOLING" but a TMIC, especially on a subaru means quick, efficient cooling. Less piping=more hp.
OP. You could do anything, but I don't see it really being worth much of your time and money, especially on an s/c.
OP. You could do anything, but I don't see it really being worth much of your time and money, especially on an s/c.
But I would have to disagree about it not being worth it. im going to be running 12psi, with that much of hot air really seems dumb to me not to have any type of cooling at all lol. If you going to force that much air or any air for that matter the colder the better!!!
#25
I totally love that intercooler that u showed me. Makeing the bends is tottal going to be easyer then what i was looking at. But the STI can do it with a vented hood we should be able to do it as well. I think the STI have a water sprayer that puts water on the intercool aswell but I dont see a problem with it we shale see though.
What did u do for cooling???
What did u do for cooling???
I went with a w/m injection kit, but I am worried about tuning with it and then it failing.
#26
Ok I agree with you on the top mount part. But i have really be doing a lot of reading and looking around and searching. I think Water to air is going to be the best rout. It not that exspansive only going to run me $300 after it said and done.
But I would have to disagree about it not being worth it. im going to be running 12psi, with that much of hot air really seems dumb to me not to have any type of cooling at all lol. If you going to force that much air or any air for that matter the colder the better!!!
But I would have to disagree about it not being worth it. im going to be running 12psi, with that much of hot air really seems dumb to me not to have any type of cooling at all lol. If you going to force that much air or any air for that matter the colder the better!!!
From what I've learned here, cooling your intake is necessary above 10psi.
#28
]Iv dove A few mock up now to see what will work and what wont this is what i kinda came up with it looks like it should work I will be try soon as i get the funds
Please dont dog my paint art work lol not to good at it lol
So all piping is 2.5 and i will do a parts list of everything i use in case any one else wants a intercooler on there SC
[ATTACH]6969[/ATTACH
Please dont dog my paint art work lol not to good at it lol
So all piping is 2.5 and i will do a parts list of everything i use in case any one else wants a intercooler on there SC
[ATTACH]6969[/ATTACH
#32
I think with that amount of piping you're going to lose some boost. I think you'd be better off with the cores you posted before(same side i/o). The only issue with a same side is you have to position it over the valve cover and probably have to remove the plastic cover(then worry about heat soak).
#34
I dont think im going to lose that much boost the guys running frontmount say that they lose 2-3 psi in there piping. What i kinda came up with im thinking ill lose .5-1 psi of boost 1.5 at the max im ok with that. The intercoolers I was looking at earlyer wont work even with the plastic cover removed, all intercoolers i saw are 4.5 high the car has 3.5 of room form the valve cover to the hood witch is tapering down.
I think with that amount of piping you're going to lose some boost. I think you'd be better off with the cores you posted before(same side i/o). The only issue with a same side is you have to position it over the valve cover and probably have to remove the plastic cover(then worry about heat soak).
#35
*This is just a theory, if anyone has tested this, chime in.
#37
#38
I totally agree with the W2A I/C idea, I am working at www.frozenboost.com to figure out how to put together a good kit that will not only fit under the hood but also provide enough cooling to manage my system now and in the future.
I've found that if you either move your battery to the back of the car or get a braille type battery there is a nice cubby area in the front drivers side of the engine bay that will house the W2A unit which will allow for an easy front mount for the radiator.
Using a W2A will minimize boost lag and loss, plus it can be a much more stable cooling system vs A2A cooling.
I've found that if you either move your battery to the back of the car or get a braille type battery there is a nice cubby area in the front drivers side of the engine bay that will house the W2A unit which will allow for an easy front mount for the radiator.
Using a W2A will minimize boost lag and loss, plus it can be a much more stable cooling system vs A2A cooling.