TRD Vortech Supercharger Seal Repair FAQ
#221
Originally Posted by sleepermod
Is any one here able to describe the proper sequence in removing the bracket housing that holds the 2 bearings to the rotating shaft at the pulley end??
I tried to remove from the top, no go. I tried using a mallet to hit the underside of the housing bracket (upwards motion) and it did move a little. Its difficult as hell to remove homies I was a fraid to use a hydraulic press as I may crack the aluminum housing...
How should the bracket be extracted? (bracket housing facing you). I've read through this thread but there's no instructions on removal, just post-removal pics.
I also had a problem removing the centre shaft housing (hollow tube), the coupler end has an ARP bolt but in order to remove it, I needed to insert the keylock + pulley to get some kinda grip but its tight as hell.
I'm getting a little flustered since I'm helping my friend change out the weaker bearings before installatiion is done
Any help would be helpful.
Could Garage1217 kindly give his input? I'll be most grateful.
I tried to remove from the top, no go. I tried using a mallet to hit the underside of the housing bracket (upwards motion) and it did move a little. Its difficult as hell to remove homies I was a fraid to use a hydraulic press as I may crack the aluminum housing...
How should the bracket be extracted? (bracket housing facing you). I've read through this thread but there's no instructions on removal, just post-removal pics.
I also had a problem removing the centre shaft housing (hollow tube), the coupler end has an ARP bolt but in order to remove it, I needed to insert the keylock + pulley to get some kinda grip but its tight as hell.
I'm getting a little flustered since I'm helping my friend change out the weaker bearings before installatiion is done
Any help would be helpful.
Could Garage1217 kindly give his input? I'll be most grateful.
TTT
#223
Okay so since my s/c was damaged I took everything apart and this is what I have to say about it.
The bearings on the shaft by the pulley are 2 pressed on 6205 skf rs (rs = Rubber seal) c3 (c3 = the grade of bearing) these 2 do not fall or slide off. There are 2 more sfk 6205 c3 bearings in the compressor housing it's self. They are the same as the pulley side bearings just they have a open cage to let the motor oil in where the pulley side bearings are packed and sealed with grease. Now the speed rated bearings are 7003 series abec 7 (abec 7 = equals the presision) the average price for these are around $125. each. There is a higher grade bearing a abec 9 but it is much harder to find. The viton seal 25-40-7 is a double lip seal. Now just so every one knows all of the bearings are pressed on and will require a press to properly remove them.
This is the impeller shaft which has the 2 speed rated 7003 bearings pressed on.
Above and below the gear. (note the bottom bearing housing has been removed)
The thread on the impeller shaft is reverse thread just fyi
Here are some random pics
The bearings on the shaft by the pulley are 2 pressed on 6205 skf rs (rs = Rubber seal) c3 (c3 = the grade of bearing) these 2 do not fall or slide off. There are 2 more sfk 6205 c3 bearings in the compressor housing it's self. They are the same as the pulley side bearings just they have a open cage to let the motor oil in where the pulley side bearings are packed and sealed with grease. Now the speed rated bearings are 7003 series abec 7 (abec 7 = equals the presision) the average price for these are around $125. each. There is a higher grade bearing a abec 9 but it is much harder to find. The viton seal 25-40-7 is a double lip seal. Now just so every one knows all of the bearings are pressed on and will require a press to properly remove them.
This is the impeller shaft which has the 2 speed rated 7003 bearings pressed on.
Above and below the gear. (note the bottom bearing housing has been removed)
The thread on the impeller shaft is reverse thread just fyi
Here are some random pics
#227
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Wow...it took me a wild, but I read all 12 pages , let me tell you all the real story behind that S/C that Garage1217 took apart and rebuild, that kit originally belonged to tc4fun4me, he was one of the first S/C tC's out here in the San Fernando Valley(Southern CAli)and any surrounding areas, well he had a Affordable Automotive aka: www.fasterscions.com install the unit which I help install as well; came out fine, but heres where everything started to go wrong, first the TRD reflash was never done, second he had the ZPI 9pnd pulley and lastly he had a K&N custom intake put on. He drove aound like that for a couple of weeks, then we went to the track, ran it hard and thats where the S/C finally crapped out, we didn't know it at the time thou. He didn't find out something was wrong until he had a custom Greddy BOV installed, basically when the BOV would go off, it would spit out oil, I'm pretty sure thats what happened. Once this happened, he decided to rebuilt the engine and he bought a Turbonetics kit to go along with it, when they took apart the engine and took out the pistons, they were cracked really bad, I'll try to find pics of them, but I'm not sure he took any, well at the end, he is now pushing something like 443 whp - 474 torque, but he's not done with it just yet.
Here's a pic of the original unit before it went bad:
Here's a pic of the original unit before it went bad:
#229
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Originally Posted by kikcaffine
^ ok. That now completed my life. Bravo.
#235
Man, sorry to hear you guys are having so much problems. I think the prefilter is a great idea as roller or ball bearings, once they catch a grain of dirt, they are going to DIE. Seals will fail early if not prelubed before installation and too much pressure afterwards can cause them to leak. When I install sealsI take my finger with some oil and rub the surfaces before installation
I have a super charged tacoma that does 0-60 in 11 seconds. Not setting any speed records, but I understand faster than stock. It has 43 thousand miles and the gear nose was replaced due to bearing failure by trd. Mines has a sealed case that uses special oil.
My setup uses the same injectors and its rumored it leans out at higher rpms. I am looking to get a 7th injector and spark retarder to help out. Even with preminum fuel in 3rd gear, petal slammed it sounds like popcorn from detonation unless I reduce throttle.
Anyway, here is a site that sells supers that may help http://www.urdusa.com/index.php?cPath=1
Think I will put off getting one for my gen 2 xb.
I have a super charged tacoma that does 0-60 in 11 seconds. Not setting any speed records, but I understand faster than stock. It has 43 thousand miles and the gear nose was replaced due to bearing failure by trd. Mines has a sealed case that uses special oil.
My setup uses the same injectors and its rumored it leans out at higher rpms. I am looking to get a 7th injector and spark retarder to help out. Even with preminum fuel in 3rd gear, petal slammed it sounds like popcorn from detonation unless I reduce throttle.
Anyway, here is a site that sells supers that may help http://www.urdusa.com/index.php?cPath=1
Think I will put off getting one for my gen 2 xb.
#236
Hey guys, it seems like you have done a ton or research to figure all this out. but, do you know that you can just send the unit to Vortech and they will rebuild the unit for you? As long as your not still in the TRD warranty period they will do the repair.
#237
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That is new considering the last time I spoke with Vortech, they said that they would not do anything at all with a TRD SC built by them & would not even discuss repairs, parts or anything on the unit period. That was a few years ago of course when all this started, but I hope things have changed.
Also it is shown that vortech uses crap parts just barely rated for what they are designed to do. Many of the guys on here are choosing upgraded internals so they do not have to go through all this BS again.
Also it is shown that vortech uses crap parts just barely rated for what they are designed to do. Many of the guys on here are choosing upgraded internals so they do not have to go through all this BS again.
#238
Originally Posted by Garage1217
That is new considering the last time I spoke with Vortech, they said that they would not do anything at all with a TRD SC built by them & would not even discuss repairs, parts or anything on the unit period. That was a few years ago of course when all this started, but I hope things have changed.
Also it is shown that vortech uses crap parts just barely rated for what they are designed to do. Many of the guys on here are choosing upgraded internals so they do not have to go through all this BS again.
Also it is shown that vortech uses crap parts just barely rated for what they are designed to do. Many of the guys on here are choosing upgraded internals so they do not have to go through all this BS again.
#240
your right.. we weren't.. we were instructed to direct any TRD problem to TRD ONLY... My post is strictly for people that fall outside of the TRD warranty. If your still in the warranty period we would still say to call them. But if you are not then Vortech will do the repair for you. As for crap parts.. if we were in the business of crap parts i don't think we would have been around for 18 years as a leader in the supercharger industry. You have to remember we built a head unit, that's it nothing more. More power, possibility of a different head unit is needed. Problem there TRD did not develop anything further for more power. Their kit was designed to make a certain boost and power level and that's it. Thus the weird pulley bolt so it cant be changed to increase boost. Of course people have figured out away around that but at that point you take it into your own hands as to how to create more power... Look guys bottom line here is I'm just trying to help out with some info. I just thought I'd come on and let you know that we will do it for you if you want us to. If you don't want the hassle of trying to do it yourself. If you want to do it yourself fine by me be my guest.
Jamie - Vortech
Jamie - Vortech