PghtC

yeah, I just had mine replaced because the bearing went out. I might be trading the car in next weekend...All depends on how the deal goes at the Subie dealership.

Wyatt_Herb

Just to summarize, the suggested ideal situation/setup for intended maximum life on this supercharger unit may include the following;

1. Correct(perfect?) installation
2. A catch can
3. A quality motor oil at the suggested viscosity of 10w-30 or 40 depending on weather.
4. Quality filters.

Is this correct?
What about a PCV valve? Would that help? How does it work?

Also, someone mentioned a rebuild kit and you graciously stated you were not trying to make a profit. To be honest, if my s/c started going wayward and someone had already pieced together the proper parts to rebuild it, I would be more than willing to pay for it.
You also mentioned the quality of certain materials in the seals. Would it be worth "improving?"
And finally, what about diverter valves? Can they cause damage anywhere for a given reason?

By the way, this thread is as good as it gets for not only current but future supercharger owners as well. Much appreciated!!

madigan923

to be honest at first I thought the squeal was the belt, only cause it wouldn’t do it all the time. and it still only does it if I build up boost. If I drive the car conservatively, stay under 3k rpm and don’t build up boost, you can barely hear it. but once I put my foot into it, it squeals like a stuck pig. I remember watching a vid clip on here a while ago of a supercharger w/ a bad bearing, and it sounds almost exactly the same. If I continue to drive it w/ a bad bearing, what’s going to happen, other then people looking at u funny when you drive through town. I mean, can the shaft seize?

jwaggz82

iTrader: (1)

^ that surely sounds like some kinda bearing problem - and I am not 100% about this but ... I would assume the shaft would seize eventually since bearings allow movement. Can someone else comment?

emiller

Not sure on this one but could it be possible that since its belt driven that it wont sieze completely right away because the belt will start slipping before the bearings totally crap out. Metal expands when hot which may tighten the bearings up but driving a cold car they will loosen back up for a few minutes until it gets back up to temp. End the end it will mess up the bearings enough to seize so dont ignore it.

jwaggz82

iTrader: (1)

ah - thanks for the reply. thats good to know for my own knowledge.

emiller

Im not postive but Ive seen it happen on axles in testing situations so it makes sense that it could apply here.

madigan923

so I took off my pulley today and found oil on the back side. I also notice that the rear trd idler pully was flopping around and it seems the bearings in that have gone as well. wonder what the chances are of getting a new idler pulley are? (probably slim to none)

Garage1217

iTrader: (5)

Sure it is oil on the backside or just black goo... Sounds like shredded belt to me. If it was oil, it would also be under the jackshaft which couples the shaft to the supercharger.

Robs_tc

Wow, this was one of the most inforative topics I've read. I woundered how exactly the metal shavings got into my oil from the s/c. The eventually damaged the engine to point where the cross hatch was completely worn off along with the some other interals. If you have a bad bearing, please do not drive your car. You never know if the dealer will try to back out of a repair. My dealer didn't do anything untill TRD gave them their word that they were going to cover the s/c and the engine.

Garage1217

iTrader: (5)

Does make ya wonder... Since the cylinder walls had that much damage, I would say somthing happened inside the compressor housing as you would have lost your bottom end / bearings way before wearing out your cylinder walls... Just a guess...

jetlounge

iTrader: (3)

so just to be clear..there are 2 types of bearing failure?
possible 2005 crankshaft bearing failure AND bearings inside the s/c failure?
or do i misunderstand?
and only way to mitigate is ensure proper alignment on the install, oil and catch can?

Garage1217

iTrader: (5)

No, sorry for the confusion. Engines that have somthing come apart like the above were metal shavings or particles end up in the oil usually have bearing failure very very quickly. When somthing comes apart in the intake track or metal is sent through the intake, then usually the cylinder rings and cylinder walls take a beating....

Now if the guts of a turbo or supercharger suffer a massive faulure "lots of tiny metal chunks going into the oil pan" then the motor is usually lost quickly.

Now if a compressor wheel comes apart or somthing is sent down the intake into the compressor wheel, nastyness is sent into the the engine and most particles easily make it into the combustion chamber to bounce around, be shot out the exhaust or just cause ugly damage to cylinder walls, pistons and rings...

The bearings in the SC are many times different than the bearings in an engine.

jetlounge

iTrader: (3)

so i'm assuming that the corrent install makes sure all items are aligned and true which keeps metal parts from hitting..and just in case small particles do get in, the catch can helps to trap them?

and so why was it that 2005 folks were more inclined to get the bearing failure (or was that a misconception on earlier threads)?

Garage1217

iTrader: (5)

Actually nothing is going to hit... The idea of the almost perfect install is to prevent anything from happening such as excellerated bearing wear or internal damage to the sc unit itself which can result in internal damage that "could" lead to engine damage by metal particles entering through the oil return line for the sc. A catch can will not prevent this at all or help as the catch can is simply for engine case vapors or the little amount of oil that is puked through the lines.

2005 were thought to have increased bearing failures in there engines... That was a manufacturing issue, nothing to do with the sc unit or anything else...

TongMan

I am currently running Mobil 1 10w30 in my tC. I have no problem with the supercharger rattling at startup and in cold weather. The one thing that bothers me sometime is when I am parked outside for a whole night, I have a harder time starting up my car. Maybe I should get better spark plugs.

Garage1217

iTrader: (5)

The cheapy plugs trd provided "denso nickle tips" are junk. Definitly updade. Also with 10w30 in very cold weather should be just right for boost.

-NEMESIS-

so great the sc plugs are crap too?

TongMan

I've been hearing good things about Iridium Spark Plugs, I may have to upgrade to those. Hopefully TRD won't tell me that I have voided my warranty by changing spark plugs.

But, yeah I've been running the Mobil 1 motor oil for about 2 weeks now and I really do feel that the Supercharger and the Engine is running much smoother than before. I don't know if all this is mental or reality. The engine idles very calmly and everything seems to be very smooth.

BTW, does anyone know how much a good set of Iridium Spark Plugs is gonna cost me?

Garage1217

iTrader: (5)

Yeah pretty much...

There is a reason "use iridium spark plugs only" is printed under your hood *LOL* Trd just tossed in some cheaper 1 step colder plugs for the kit.