rozz-tC

I run copper, I had them gapped at .026, my tuner changed it, i live in STL, i drove 11 hours for my tune last year only to find out i was runnin with a popped piston ring. lol, Im not afraid to drive just dont wanna go that far again.

And the maf still reads correctly, however I did notice something.
On my last tC when i was setting the throttle position voltage it would go up to 5v with it pushed all the way down, On this tC when i push it all the way down, it only goes to like 3.6v I dont even know where to start on that problem, or if it matters, i mean the car obviously goes WOT.

SoFloTC

iTrader: (3)

mustang dynos run lower than dynojet... idk where u got ur info saying they read lower? go to a mustang dyno and then ask for them to calculate ur dynojet numbrs and its like 20-30 more wheel

rozz-tC

Was that directed to me? I never said anything about either of them, someone asked what kinda dyno, i found out and answered.

SoFloTC

iTrader: (3)

no not you.. someone else posted that mustang reads high.

toyota_scion_tc

If they calculate dyno jet numbers then it will show you exactly what it would put out on a dyno jet but possibly less. My tuner said if they use dynojet numbers it still reading low. If you have no clue about this most of them are just going to give you the mustang numbers not dynojet numbers.

SoFloTC

iTrader: (3)

what im saying is ive been on a mustang.. then i was like "well what would that calculate on a dynojet" and its some percent they multiply by then add it to the number or something and it was like 26 more wheel

purevision01

This car is turbo... Even if you were loosing pressure in the ic core, the wastegate should have its vacuum source from the intake manifold and not the turbo outlet. Some people prefer the wastgate to be plumbed to the compressor outlet. But for reasons like this, I am highly against it and unless I was running two boost gauges, I would plum the wastegate to the intake manifold 99% of the time.

rozz-tC

My wastegate is hooked up to the line coming out of the valve cover to intake mani on the passenger side of the engine, my boost gauge, bov, pressure sensor are hooked up off the throttle body side.

is this correct? its how i was told to hook it up back when i first installed the kit on my first tC.

CarbonXe

iTrader: (1)

Compared to DynoDynamics, they read high.

SoFloTC

iTrader: (3)

^ if that is true than ur pushing 335+ on a dynojet.. nice numbers.

purevision01

If everything is as you say, then you just have a crappy tune... time for a new tuner.

CarbonXe

iTrader: (1)

In terms of comparing, then yes. In terms of actual power, then no.

rozz-tC

I agree, Would the emanage only reading 3.6v on full throttle have anything to do with it? that prolly means the car is only seeing 3.6v on the DBW.

purevision01

yeah it is possible the throttle body is not fully open at wot.

rozz-tC

anything i can do to troubleshoot this? Im not very experienced with DBW to be honest.

rozz-tC

Well I just regapped my plugs and reset the ecu.

My tuner had them opened up to almost .040, that would explain the spark blowout. i closed them up to about .024

However, after about 3 minutes of idleing the CEL came back on, i cant leave till ups gets here but im hoping its just the 2nd o2 sensor code and not a missfire, ill take it to autozone later and get it scanned. prolly grab some spark plug anti-foulers to do the cel trick for the o2 sensor too.

Looking at my last log (which is recent) post tune, in full boost im around 14-17, mainly 16 degrees of timing. Seems kinda low.

Also on the throttle position issue, i just tried to readjust. .50v for base, 3.7v full, if i stand on the pedal and give it all i got, i get it up to about 4v. could it just be the pedal is adjusted wrong and not going down all the way? or is it not adjustable?

rozz-tC

Ok, I pulled the throttle position sensor off the gas pedal and when freely moving it, i can go up to 4.8v. I did clock it alittle different putting it back on and now pushing the pedal gives me 4.0v, about a .4v improvement but thats as far as i can clock it and im still missing .8v. I dont see any other way to adjust it other than the bolt holes have about a 1/2inch slot to clock it one way or the other, but at each extreme it still only controls about .4-.5v worth of signal.

any ideas?

purevision01

Most dbw systems like this one do not allow the throttle plate to fully open... There are companies out there that offer 100% throttle... But I can not recall what their names are.

CarbonXe

iTrader: (1)

tC's only open to 80%, according to OBD2 data.

rozz-tC

that makes sense then, for some reason i thought i got 5v on my last tC.

In other news, I got the EBC installed, didnt really turn the boost up, but it did raise 1psi with the install, so around 8-9, sometimes almost 10psi.

After pulling another log, it looks like my timing is the issue. For some reason the car is retarding ALOT of timing, down to 12* at 9psi, which im pulling 2*, so the car is giving me a 14* base. Talking to another tC tuner they normaly aim for around 20-22. However at 9psi i shouldn't be advancing any time, atleast not 8* lol

at normal cruising my car seems to have normal time, anywhere from 22-27* but as soon as i hit boost it nearly cuts it in half. Anyone know why the car would be pulling so much timing? i dont hear any knock, however I dont have the emanage setup to monitor it.