Tuning question - bouncing idle / stall?
After installing a light weight flywheel my car stalls occasionaly after slowing down. Im running a dezod turbo and the AEM F/IC - i have been tuning the car myself but im not sure how to stop these symptoms. My AFR at idle varies from 13.8-15.5 back and forth but averages 14.7.
Any ideas on how to make it idle smoother?
Any ideas on how to make it idle smoother?
Doing some research found this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0R1K...eature=related
States the HKS Bov causes the stalling - sounds like my exact symptoms. Is it my BOV causing this or my tune?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0R1K...eature=related
States the HKS Bov causes the stalling - sounds like my exact symptoms. Is it my BOV causing this or my tune?
I agree with the light flywheel thing.. but it was doing it before the flywheel as well ... now just more!
It happens nearly every time when i jam in the clutch when im in full boost... and it happens at least twicec a day just normal driving like backing out of my driveway or stoping at a stop sign. I notice at idle it doesnt just sit, it bounces around 500-1000 rpms for about a minute untill it settles in about 700.
It happens nearly every time when i jam in the clutch when im in full boost... and it happens at least twicec a day just normal driving like backing out of my driveway or stoping at a stop sign. I notice at idle it doesnt just sit, it bounces around 500-1000 rpms for about a minute untill it settles in about 700.
When you jam in the clutch in full boost, it is DEFFINATELY the BOV. The synapse seems to fix that, as would getting your HKS recirced into your intake.
The bouncing at idle, that's tuning, and has nothing to do with yoru flywheel or your BOV.
My cruise AFRs bounce from about 14.2 to 15. If it's bouncing alot, your management is probably fighting with yoru ecu...you running the f/ic or the greddy blue?
The bouncing at idle, that's tuning, and has nothing to do with yoru flywheel or your BOV.
My cruise AFRs bounce from about 14.2 to 15. If it's bouncing alot, your management is probably fighting with yoru ecu...you running the f/ic or the greddy blue?
that's what I thought, but i had to make sure!
my F/IC was fighting with my ECU because my 02 sensor was bad...aen's as well...
I should have a new map available for distribution this weekend...
my F/IC was fighting with my ECU because my 02 sensor was bad...aen's as well...
I should have a new map available for distribution this weekend...
it's the hks.
if you go to home depot in hte plumbing isle there is a fitting that looks like a screw type and if you grind down hte sides it fits right into the hks , then buy a tube and attach it to a welded piece on your intake pipe.
your idle gets a hell of alot more smoother and no risk of stalling.
if you go to home depot in hte plumbing isle there is a fitting that looks like a screw type and if you grind down hte sides it fits right into the hks , then buy a tube and attach it to a welded piece on your intake pipe.
your idle gets a hell of alot more smoother and no risk of stalling.
oh. hahah ok
there are a couple different scenerios
1. o2 sensor is bad = fuel trims to go crazy and make hte scion ecu correct it by increasing throttle
2. fuel trims were bad from the get go - makes scion ecu correct everything by bouncing
3. vac leak.
if cruise is fine then most likely it's fuel trims because ruise is in closed loop..
watch for cel soon.
there are a couple different scenerios
1. o2 sensor is bad = fuel trims to go crazy and make hte scion ecu correct it by increasing throttle
2. fuel trims were bad from the get go - makes scion ecu correct everything by bouncing
3. vac leak.
if cruise is fine then most likely it's fuel trims because ruise is in closed loop..
watch for cel soon.
enjoithis, i was having the same problem as you and have spent hours working on just the tuning at idle. so far this is what has worked for me. at idle pull up the map and your gauges so that you can see what cell is highlighted when it is running. In the cell that is highlighted at normal idle put -25 in the ignition table, put whatever voltage corresponds to 15.0afr in the O2 table. and put -20 in 2 cells each direction of your idle cell in the timing chart. ie 2up, 2left, 2 down, 2diagonal. i haven't had my idle surge or stall in the last week since i did that. try it and let me know how it goes
you can make your idle richer, usually rough idle happens when it gets leaner than 15.. not sure how the aem fic software works though but try looking into the cell where your idle is at and try to adjust the afrs to make it smoother on the rich side, but that if you can do that
so what causes the F/IC to "bounce" .. when it idles at at 14.7 fuel trims are no more than 5% but the afr bounces between 13 and 16, even when on partial throttle it does the same, and you can feel it pull more when running richer. I need to tune this out!






