I'm having trouble getting the oil pan off.

All the bolts are out, but I can't get anthing inbetween the pan and the block to pry it off?

Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance!

 

use a hammer and your tire iron.. wack it in there and pry off! it will come off trust me! done 5 with that technique now!

 

yup what he said, i used rubber mallet on mine.. you could also use a torch just be careful.. or pain stripper blades.. but be careful prying it off especially if its not loose yet, dont use a pry bar or you may dent the pan and it wouldnt seal

 

I have chisells. Will that work as well?

Is that going to mess up the oil pan/?

Thanks!

 

it might but be carefull it might not be thin enough

 

i've done 4 installs with the hammer and screwdriver method, works fine. might bend the pan a touch but its easy enough to just bend it back.

 

crowbar and a rubber mallet.

worked twice for me

 

The dezod website has instructions to do the paint scraper method.

 

i used a very very thin small flat head and broke up the sealant around the pan and then a rubber mallet to beat it out

 

use box cutter blades and hammer them into the silicone, it cuts the silicone and drops hte pan.

 

Yep! That or razor blades.

 

Sorry I didn;'t post a reply last night, I worked till like 8, ate and went right to bed.

We ended up getting it off first try with a bearclaw (nail remover), after several tries with the tire iron and small chisells.

The day went well, got the turbo on and downpipes on, the oil pan off and partially drilled out (need bigger drill bit), the S-Pipe off to weld in a AFR bung, the intake assembly off, buper off, and replaced the thermostat (went with a cooler one just in case).

I'm about to start up agin today, hoping to get the intercooler and piping in, the oil atch can in, and pan and s-pipe back in. Maybe start on the injectors if I have time.

I did have a question about the placement of the bung for the AFR sensor. I should probably put that on the opposite side of the pipe from the o2 sensor right?

Thanks for all the help.

 

What kit? No need to place it on the opposite side. You can stack them up if you'd like.

 

screwdriver and hammer.. done mine 3 times

 

Sorry it took so long to reponsd, I thought I posted last night, but it must not have gone throught due to the bad internet connection.

Thanks for the help. I ended up getting it off with a bear claw (screw remover). It is nerve raking waking away at it.

The got alot done yesterday (stock manifold and down pipe off, s pipe off (to weld in a bung for my AFR gauge), oil pan off, bumper off, intake assembly off, turbo and downpipe in).

just got my oil pan and s-pipe back from welding, the oil pan is already in. so I got another full day of work ahead of me. Wish me luck!

 

So I have a few more install question, if you guys don't mind.

First, should I gap th plugs?

Also, I have the new injectors in and tried pluggin them in, and they seem to be hitting the intake manifold. Can I spin them to the other side, or do I have to grind the intake manifold?

Lastly, when I geet to starting, should i do anything special (to flow oil into the turbo. The instructions say to turn the ignition to on 2-3 times to get oul pressure. Then to rmovethe ECM fuse and crank the engine to get oil pressure, until the oil light in the dash turbos off. What's the ECM fuse?

Thanks!

 

you can gap the plugs between 0.026 to 0.035, you got step colder plugs? the injector shouldnt hit the manifold if theyre plug and play, should just plug like the stock.. On mine i just started like normal, it shouldnt be a problem since the oil get to the turbo in a second once the engine is running, or you can do the extra cranking thing, look at the manual and you see the EFI fuse..

 

Thanks.

I got 2 steps colder, but have read that you shouldn't gap iridiums (risk of dmaging the filament).

I was able to get them in by plugging them in then installing the rail, instead of installing them then pluggin them in.

I'm going to see if I can find the ECM fuse (guess it stops the engine from turning over).

 

you can regap the plugs but very careful, i broke two of those.. i think step 2 colder are usually at 0.029" gapped (NGK iridium IX), if you dont wanna risk it you can just use those

 

So I just started my car, and my AFR gauge jumped around a little, settled on 15 then started to rise. So, I turned the car off.

Is that supposed to happen?