dont get scared of 15s afrs on idle and light cruise.. dont turn off the car, drive and enjoy.. dont go boosting yet until you get tuned, unless you are a risk taker and wanna street tune..

 

Ace, first off thanks for your help, I really appreciate it. This is my fist FI and I am somewhat nervous about it.

The reason I turned it off is because it went higher than 15. The gauge did the same thing without the car on. Started at 15 and climbs to '--'. Could this just be calibration?

BTW I havew an AEM AFR gauge.

 

There is a o2 sensor extendor that I received with the kit (bought the kit used), that I didn't install (as it was not int he directions). Could that effect anything?

 

the reading on gauge when the car is off is not correct, it needs to have exhaust to read right.. on cold start up its not accurate too until the sensor gets to operating temp.. I ran lean idle afrs too, 17s up at times, 15s afrs on idle is ok. But once it starts to stall, the afr is too lean to support combustion, you will need to add more fuel.. -- reading happens when the afr is too high for the sensor to read, aem goes only up to 18, some widebands goes to like 22.. try to drive it slowly and see where is your afr

 

When did it go into "---"?

If it did it during cruise, light accel, or boost, then you've got a problem with the tune.

If it did it on decel, then it's natural. Your injectors will shut off during deceleration when you're over approx 1800 RPM.

 

what management?

 

I have emanage ultimate.

This was just the first start up in the driveway.

So, I should just let it run for a little while and see if the AFR gauge comes down as it warms up?

Also. the ultimate comes with a base map for the greddy turbo kit.

 

I had it on for like 4 or 5 minutes and the AFR guage didn't come down off "--".


Should i run it for longer? Please help!!!

 

Sounds more like something is wrong with the gauge...

I tested my gauge with my ATV. I just put the exhaust of my ATV next to the window of my tC and held the sensor up to the tail pipe.

 

So i should take out the sensor and test it?

This would probably involve taking the s-pipe back down.

How long would you say it takes to get the exhaust to operating temperature for it to work?

Also, I spliced my boost gauge into the tubing to the BOv. Will this provide a vacuum. When I started the needle did not move off 30 vacuum.

Thanks!

Could it be my Mass Air Flow Sensor. It was dropped during removal (while attached to the air box), which resulted in a slight chip to the outside.

 

anyone?

 

I installed a new MAF sensor, but it doesn't seem to have fixed my problem.

The car is still running around 17 or 18 AFR.

 

So, I ended up getting it towed to P-Tuning to have them check it out (and tune it while it was there).

Turns out, I had a large exhaust leak between the downpipe and the S-pipe that was throwing off my AFR gauge at the end of my s-pipe. The leak was due to a gasket that is required (that I think it part of the stock header/downpipe).

Luckily, my parents have AAA so the it didn't cost me anything to get it towed. Probably better this way, now I don't have to worry about the adequacy of the base map (as they tuned it after they fixed the leak).

thanks for all the help

 

yeah exhaust leak between downpipe would throw your readings off when your wideband are in the spipe.. but its just a gasket that caused the leak i dont its gonna be that big unless its disconnected.. i say its about the tune.. but its good you brought it to the right place

 

yeah, i guess the leak wasn't too bad (as i didn't really see smoke coming up through the engine bay).

I'm sure you don't need anyting too bad to throw it up from 15 to 17/18.

The piece of mind is definately worth it, though.

Plus, the actual gasket only cost $34, but the tune cost $400.