i wouldn't recommend ever going above 7psi on an a/t...unless you got the tranny built 1st ...but if you got any more questions or anything feel free to pm me and i'll be more than happy to answer em for you

 

I'm a strong believer in "If you're going to play, play right."

So I'm planning on doing this once my tC is paid off. Which won't be until this time next year or early '12. For the time being, I'm going to buy everything at different times and keep them stored.

Because of "strong believer;" that means I'm also planning on doing everything else: pistons, rods, cams.

So to do everything; I'm estimating 7k-8k.

 

Get that Tranny beefed up to take more boost.

Then again I'm at 7psi and I'm feelin' great.

 

ya with an a/t anything over 7psi and the tranny will slip esp off the line...i tried runin 9psi for a day and it was slippin like crazy on me off the line

 

FWIW, David Phillips (of Allan Phillips Racing) told me a story about Toyota ATs that I found interesting. A few years back they experimented with tricking the ECU into shifting harder by reducing the load seen by the ECU at the WOT shift points. He said that they had the tranny chirping the tires into 2nd and 3rd gear. Then the tranny went bad very quickly. Since David has friends at Toyota he called and explained the situation. The Toyota engineer explained that they've designed their AT's to handle a lot of clutch slippage but the design can't handle hard clutch engagement. That's one of the reasons why Toyota ATs shift firmly under light loads but slip so much under high loads. Basically by increasing the clutch pack engagement pressure under high loads they had ripped the friction material right off the clutches. The moral being that the friction material on the clutches is designed to handle slip and heat better than high engagement loads.

Anyway, what I took away from this is that I wouldn't get a valve body without a full tranny build-up. I'm planning to stay at 7 psi and not beat on the tranny too hard. Hopefully my switch from WS to M1 ATF won't do any harm. It shifts a little more firmly with M1 but not even close to chirping the tires into 2nd.

 

what about if you used aftermarket clutches in your rebuild?

 

lolz. I was spinning 2nd at the track with drag radials. The trans eventually went after I turned up the boost.

 

Are you saying that our U241E can handle the kind of tq that spins drag radials in 2nd gear as long as we don't turn the boost up any higher? I'm unclear about how much hp/tq we're talking about and any mods made to your trans?

 

My trans was fine making 260tq. Upgraded valve body and synthetic fluid. Can I guarantee that yours wont blow up? no. I turned the boost up, probably made over 300tq easy. It felt like a 12 second car at that point.

But was spinning second at the drag strip with 260tq. Thing would not come out of the hole, all it did was spin.

 

If I was worried about guarantees I wouldn't have turbocharged my car 1 year and 20k miles into the warranty.

I'm only looking for first-hand experience and good info. Who did your VB upgrade and was it worth it, IYO? Would you recommend it? What boost levels were you running?

My own FWD Scion experience is limited to 6 psi with street radials running 14.3-14.4 all day long with very little wheel spin. Although I did break loose and run 14.5 on 1 out of 10 runs when they put too much water on the burnout area.

 

I had an IPT valve body. made 260hp.260tq on a custom kit. Before that made 230whp for about a year on a dezod kit. Turned up boost to go fast. Went fast. Broke something.

 

So would you recommend the IPT valve body upgrade? Thanks again.

 

I recommend a 5 speed swap. Screwing around with the auto trans is too much money. Ive personally see "BUILT" abd "Bulletproof" autos go easily. 5 speed swap. Be done.

 

Thanks. I'll save my money and stick with low boost.

 

Agreed I had my car tuned at PTuning on 7psi been boosted for over 2 years still no probs..... knock on wood. But its a lot cheaper to go auto to manual and you power gain is much greater. It would only cost you about 1500 to get all the manual parts. Cost me about 3500 but thats with a ACT Clutch, Fidanza Flywheel and a built tranny from TPR.

I did also go with a 05 M/T Harness and 05 M/T ECU, so you can go a cheaper route.