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Working with the 2AZ-FE

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Old May 4, 2009 | 08:03 PM
  #41  
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Old May 4, 2009 | 09:42 PM
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Ok so if you're boosted under 300hp what oil should u use?
Old May 4, 2009 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by DezodDon
Yes.

10w40 is a minimum I recommend.

I run 20w50 in everything that makes 400hp or more.

that engine is pure sex....always was a fan of the RB26det nissan engine..never owned one but dreamed of one
Old May 4, 2009 | 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by KeithMac115
Ok so if you're boosted under 300hp what oil should u use?
X2 I'm gonna be around 315 whp
Old May 4, 2009 | 10:48 PM
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^^ id say continue to use 5w30 that should be fine.
Old May 5, 2009 | 12:12 AM
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I've been using 10w30 just to be safe.. I'll be adding an oil cooler some time soon - hopefully before the full onset of summer.
Old May 5, 2009 | 03:12 AM
  #47  
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If you look at engine from the 1980's and look at a engine from 2000's the engine tolerances are a tighter even if its 1,000's of an inch they are for improved reliability. This is why newer engines require thinner oils than in the 80's. If the oil flow isn't sufficient flow through the passages then the bearings overtime overheat and fail. This is why it is important to use quality oil, oil filter, and change at regular intervals. I am staying with 10w30 but using synthetic for my engine.

I have done a lot of research on this and spoken to several manufactures and this is what they have all informed me.
Old May 5, 2009 | 03:13 PM
  #48  
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Yeah oil in an engine always helps. And yes make sure you have a complete tune before getting into boost at all. That is where I f-ed up my first engine. I was stupid and had a half ___ tune and BOOM see ya engine. Oh well lesson learned.
Old May 6, 2009 | 05:25 AM
  #49  
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Just a question but, How long does it usually take to get a safe good tune?

because my tuner did mine in about 2 hrs.

what are your guys thoughts?
Old May 6, 2009 | 05:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Mrsanchez925
Just a question but, How long does it usually take to get a safe good tune?

because my tuner did mine in about 2 hrs.

what are your guys thoughts?
depends on the mods, engine management, and condition of everything.
Old May 6, 2009 | 06:10 AM
  #51  
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good info
Old May 6, 2009 | 06:38 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by BlackKnight
Originally Posted by Mrsanchez925
Just a question but, How long does it usually take to get a safe good tune?

because my tuner did mine in about 2 hrs.

what are your guys thoughts?
depends on the mods, engine management, and condition of everything.
Everything is in good condition, Just got a new manifold today..., i am running an AEM FIC .. on my dezod S1 kit
Old May 6, 2009 | 12:10 PM
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piggybacks is faster to tune, standalones takes way longer on the dyno plus the streets
Old May 7, 2009 | 01:56 AM
  #54  
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ok so if you were thinking bout running an oil cooler for the motor and your boosted what would be the best way to route the oil lines so that you dont end up starving anything especially my turbo ? what would be the safest way to do this ?
Old May 7, 2009 | 01:12 PM
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Most people get a sandwhich plate that goes between the filter and the block. This plate usually has two bungs for an oil cooler (in and out). I would mount it as close to the engine as possible (shorter lines) but obviously in a spot that gets air flow.
Old May 7, 2009 | 04:45 PM
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sweet thanks for the info. I saw that recommendation in another thread also.
Old May 8, 2009 | 12:45 AM
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just ask B Real he will lead ya in the right direction
Old May 12, 2009 | 08:39 AM
  #58  
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Default Re: Working with the 2AZ-FE

Originally Posted by DezodDon
Anyone running turbo I recommend at minimum 10w40. I have built many engines and those that make serious boost run on 20w50 for the best protection. If you ever have an oil pump failure you at least have the viscosity of the oil to give you a couple seconds of safety where a thinner weight oil would not and immediately cause bearing failure.

Just wanted to share my thoughts and findings with you all. More to come. Boost on!
So instead of running full synthetic oil or dino with a high Zinc content for metal to metal protection, you'd recommend a heavier weight oil like 10w40 with more polymers to break down and sludge up the engine and turbo? I wonder how well 20w50 flows in an engine toleranced to run on 0w20? Sounds like a recipe for failure to me.
Old May 12, 2009 | 03:40 PM
  #59  
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High zinc is meant for engines with high amounts of friction which most modern OHC engines no longer have. Think big block chevy with .600 + lift cam with 175 plus pounds of valve spring seat pressure and a heavy valve train that has to move all of that. Closer weights have less tendancy to break down and form sludge in high heat applications than do one that has a far spread in viscosity ratings.

Either way I'm just trying to share the bulk of my professional experience with a crowd that seems less knowledgeable about it.

How many people on this board work with engines, high horsepower cars.......everyday, all day? Please stand up.

I have seen better wear patterns and protection in many different engines. I have a few 600hp EVO customers, 700hp 350Z, two 600hp Skylines, and soon another 700+ hp R33 Skyline.

Take it for what it's worth. Everyone is welcome to their opinion. If any one finds any of the information I lend based on my experience and not my post count to be helpful then use it. If you disagree with my experience and findings then ignore me. It's ok I won't lose sleep.

Good luck guys.
Old May 12, 2009 | 05:07 PM
  #60  
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what shop do you work at ?



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