CEL means check engine and FIX whats wrong. when did we turn in to HONDA builders on this site. Show some pride and do it right or dont do it at all!

 

alright good...dont yet, you could be borderline grenading that motor right now and plugs could set you over that edge

 

I ordered my proscan (www.myscantool.com) about a week and a half ago but I didn't notice the thing that said "You'll have to wait until after July 5th." I'm anxious to see what the CEL is all about and to fix it thanks boxman.

 

yea says 230whp on there site...

But they bragged with a little more bolt ons 250+ was easy.

And seeing that graph oh my... unichip is needed bad!

 

did you end up continuing to wait for the rest of the stage 1 or you gonna just stay with the 0 and piece things together yourself? I would see if they could at least send you an emanage if you payed for the stage 1...either that or a new motor if yours blows before they can send you the rest of the parts...last time I checked there was no backorder on blue boxes

 

They wanted to send me all the parts for stage 1 but those were taking too long so I asked them to send me the stage 0 parts, to which they agreed. They're all closed now but I am asking for a blue box as soon as I can. The only problem I can think of initially is how it comes with a baseline stage 1 tune. Can those store multiple tunes?

 

not the blue box...dont worry about the stage 1 tune...its junk anyway, everyone has had to get a retune anyway so I would get it ASAP and bring it to your local tuner and have him clean up the maps for your car.

 

Yea, at this point I don't care AS MUCH about power increase as keeping a/f ratios in check throughout the powerband.

 

yea if you can D get the Ultimate. its the better way, i have the lil blue but i saw huge gains once tuning was done. and if you can do a full exhuast upgrade spipe-catback ext... and youll net about 15-20whp.

 

Hey, is this draven aka streeter? Just wondering from your profile and location.

If your tool does not come in soon, let me know. I can hook mine up to it next weekend or so and we can look at the codes. I only have the generic OBDII data but that is usually plenty. It is a diagnostic tool, not just a code reader.

 

yup...thats him the poster formely known as Draven...help him out if you can man, his motor is teetering a fine line right now...scary as how this is a out of the box kit that they claim is perfectly safe to run on the engine and how we were "blessed" with this great ECU to do so.

 

Yup, it's me. Cool man - I'll let you know. Hopefully it'll come soon - maybe you want to sit in and check out the Proscan if it comes in anyway? It's (supposed to be) pretty sweet.

Simplyscion - can you tell me what an acceptable A/F ratio range is? A tuner at the dyno said that the low curve is fuel being dumped into the engine. Is he smoking crack, or is there something I'm missing here?

 

Under full load you are going to want to see something around an 11.8ish AFR in my opinion. I believe this to be a safe AFR on these cars with pump gas in just about any climate.

Charles

edit: The low line IS extra fuel being dumped but if I had to take a guess I would say that is where the car starts seeing knock and the stock ecu is pulling some timing and throwing a bunch of fuel in there to compensate some. AFR's in teh 14's is NEVER acceptable under boost. There is some tapering that is acceptable as boost insets and rpm's increase, but you are talking a very sharp ramp-up with a turbo that spools as fast as yours does. I would tune the car to a mid 12afr at the onset of full boost that quickly ramps down to a 11.5-11.8 area.

 

hmm mine is about 11.8-12.1 in there. after tuning was done.

 

Was there any timing adjustment made on your map? If not, On the stock timing, I wouldnt want to see anything over 11.8 honestly. If you are pulling a few degree's then you can lean it out a bit but you dont want to get to crazy because you never know when you might get a a bad tank of gas or something. Better to error on the side of caution if you ask me.

Charles

 

THAT's useful info.

edit: They mentioned that bank 1 was a *little* lean (which I thought was surprising anyway), but not anywhere near "dangerous". I wish I could've gotten more details on this when I was there.

 

http://www.zeropointindustries.net/g...stage0dyno.wmv

ZPI made 248whp on stock exhaust and universal muffler..
200whp is weak... what gives?

 

Cool, let me know when it comes in. We will have to grab a beer and I want to check out your setup and the new scan tool.

I would be careful with it until you get it tuned though. After all you have been through I would hate to see that motor get messed up!

 

keep in mind hus numbers might not be corrected or could be a crappy dyno.. theres alot of things that come into play also, bad weather, climate, location, humidity etc. i would highly recomend getting an emanage to straighted out the fuel on the end which is probably why you loosing power. and i also would not recomend wasting money on a boost controller until you get an emanage and some more time getting use to your current set up.

the zpi kits are good. i have 3 friends who have them and have had no complaints or problems other then replacement of the copper gaskets to the BOV. and they run hard 24/7 and all 3 cars have almomst 30k miles after boost was put in. but they have emanages to help. 2 are stock with 210-220 hp consistent. one with an upgraded exhuast and dump 23Xhp so the numbers are do able. ill see if ican get dyno sheets so u can see the diff. in the fuel curve. but defenitely get the emanage and a tune asap. also have u switch spark plugs to 1 step colder and changed to synthetic oil and 93 octane?

 

^^ Also keep in mind that the dyno used by the manufacturer could also be off. Lower numbers do not mean a crappy dyno. Its funny how people seem to think that the highest dyno number means the best dyno. That is absolutely untrue. They way it is measured and corrected play a huge role. For example.. manufacturers stating 12 whp from the dynos for a lightweight crank pulley.. sorry, that is really stretching the setup. I am not bashing ZPI or anyone for that matter, but dynos (especially wheel dynos) are not the most accurate tool in the world.

Dynos are comparison tools.. period. You run a baseline, then mod, then run another run on the same dyno in the closest conditions possible.. then you get an IDEA of how much performance improvement you will see.

And as I say again and again, please stop looking at peak hp numbers, they are WORTHLESS. Look at the whole curve. Two identical cars running different mods pushing 200 whp peak can perform completely different. The area under the curve is what you are looking at. Looking at most of the SC dynos I have seen, they peak very high in the band.. this will not perform as well as a system with a little less HP and a wider and flatter curve. And I am not comparing the SC to any other kit.. just using that as an example. So you can have a car with a peak of 200 whp and one with 220whp but a narrow, peaky curve and still get owned by the lower hp car. People put way too much precise judgement on dyno numbers, and peak numbers at that. Take it to the track and see how it does. That is your best measurement of real performance.