sciontc07

what is the way to upgrade my zpi stage 0 turbo; my friend says just get the boost controller and the other parts (intercooler, better injectors, etc.) and use the boost controller to increase boost amount and it will be like stage 1 turbo; is that true?

rhythmnsmoke

You don't even need a boost controller to make it into a Stage 1. What separates you from a Stage 1 is:

1) Intercooler
2) Larger injectors
3) Engine management
4) 10 PSI spring inside the WG.

Add those, and Poof...You are Stage 1 equipped. Now add a boost controller, and you become greater than an off the shelf Stage 1, because now you can turn up the boost more.

However, there is a price to pay when upgrading. You have to think about a clutch. If you are on a stock clutch (although being a Stage 0, you would have to change it anyway if you raced often), you should upgrade to at MINIMUM a Stage 3. Perhaps a Stage 4 if you plan on turning up the boost beyond your 10 PSI spring.

sciontc07

thanks smoke, im kinda a fan of ur videos ive watched them plenty of times; now what if i were to add those items and i wish to upgrade to stage one with the items u mentioned but i dont race or i race VERY rarely do u think i would still need that upgraded clutch to be on the safe side?

bcnu_702

Well I'm not smoke, but I would still recommend a stage 3 upgrade minimum. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the stage 1 ZPI kit puts out around 250+ whp. I say a safe rule to play by is anything over 240whp or more you would need to think about getting an upgraded clutch. It may last some, but it will go out eventually (and i'm not saying 50,000 miles eventually, more like 10-15k). Better to be safe then sorry!

Mugetsu

don't mean to thread jack but.
do you think a HKS super AFR(very similar to Apexi) and a dezod black box could manage a ZPI stage 0 with just a small intercooler?

olaHalo

this is the route that i will be taking also. getting stage 0 and slowly uprading over time.

rhythmnsmoke

I have a philosophy...

I would rather HAVE something and not need it, then to NEED it, and not have it.

rhythmnsmoke

Racing offten, even a Stage 0 will destroy your stock clutch. Stage 1 will put down 250-260whp @ just 7lbs of boost. I'm on 9/10lbs, so you can imagine that I would need a better clutch. On just 7lbs of boost, I destroyed a Clutchmasters Stage 1 clutch. It lasted all of about 3 months. I recommend a Stage 3 minimum with ANY turbo.

rhythmnsmoke

Oh, forgot in that list the:

5) HKS SSQ bov (not needed, but it comes with the Stage 1's).

Concerning your question about the HKS Super AFR. According to it's description and features, based on this statement,

I don't think the HKS Super AFR is right for our cars. It seems to be adjustable based on RPM's. From what I've read and learned, I think that we need the ability to adjust on either Boost or Throttle %. Seeing as how you can be at a certain RPM with different throttle positions, I'm not sure if the Super AFR would be good for us.

The Dezod Black box is designed to adjust A/F based on your Boost. It's used for Part throttle boosting, but I would not recommend it in place of say an E-manage. The GReddy Pressure Sensor that you can get will allow you to tune off of Boost pressure instead of Throttle %. Therefore, if you have an E-manage + Pressure Sensor you will have the ability to tune Part throttle Boost and have a piggy back system to control your WOT as well. Or as some others have done, Dezod Black Box + E-manage, but I tend to like to stay with the same manufacture instead of cross breading with a Frankenstien of parts, unless I'm building my Desktop computer...


So, to make a long story short Go either:

E-manage + Black Box

or

E-manage + Pressure Sensor

I run just the E-manage, and I still part throttle boost, so it's not something that is NECESSARY or your car will blow (don't believe the hype, I've driven this way for over a year).