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*Audio Problems*

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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 10:58 PM
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Default *Audio Problems*

well i installed my system 2 weekends ago and everything went smooth! Everything worked fine. A couple days later i noticed a low buzz and the pitch gets higher as i rev. Guessing its the "Alternator Whine". Ive read the "Ten Commandments of Noise Free Audio Setup". Im thinking of upgrading the battery since my lights flicker also but only when i have the bass high which its normally not.

Today while driving i had the bass kinda high enough to make my nose tickle, all of a sudden my components shut off and i hurry and turn the vol down. Scrared the hell out of me! I dont know why it did that?

Sometimes when i make a right or left turn the components will turn off or the left side will work when i make a right hand turn of vise versa? Freaking weird. All the wires are tight in there and are run correctly. I remember the 1st time the components did that i went to the back when my amps are and put my hand over the amp for my comps and i heard static? It went away after i got some wires from under my amps that were smushing it i guess? I cant think of why these things are happening? it only happened when i put my new system in?

The RCA's are on the opposite side of the power wire. I do have 2 amps hooked up close together like in the pic and i was thinking this was why?

The remote wire is wired like this. from the HU to amp1, then from amp1 to amp2. the ground is from both amps to a distro block, then to the chasis. Power wire is from both amps to the same distro block then to the +battery. My distro block is a Stinger with 4 inputs and 2 outputs. My ground is to the rear strut bolt, nice and sanded down. Should the amps be seperated? I cant think thats the problem for it shutting off when i turn?

My System!
///Alpine CDA-9851 Head Unit
CDT EF-61CFi 6.5" Components
w/ JL 300/2
JL 10w6v2 ported
w/ JL 500/1
ALL STINGER WIRES

where my amps are

they are mounted on a sheet of 3/4" MDF wood. Could the power/ground wires on the distro block be too close? Please help! Thanks
Old Jul 5, 2006 | 02:37 AM
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if I was in your shoes I wouldn't run the ground to the distro block, no need to.

Also re-check your connections to the battery and make sure none of the wires have been damaged. I can't really believe you're having power problems with running that much, I've seen higher amperage TC's that didn't have problems. Also if you haven't yet, once you start pushing over 1KW through your car, you might want to upgrade the main 3 power and grounds of the system, AKA "The Big Three"

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...TID=73496&PN=1

The stock alternator should be more than sufficient for your system, and capacitors are not necessary if you have a properly designed system. The problem with the system cutting out when you're turning etc sounds like a loose wire somewhere in the system.
Old Jul 5, 2006 | 02:54 AM
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so re-do the ground, serperated or same spot? maybe 1 strut bolt for 1 and the other to another strut bolt? Im thinking about upgrading the battery to Optima Yellow or Red top? Whats the difference between the 2? Dont know much on them?

thanks for the help
Old Jul 5, 2006 | 03:37 AM
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red top has a deeper cycle than the yellow, I would suggest the yellow.

Connect the 2 grounds to seperate points, as far away from eachother as feasable (as in run one in one direction as far as it will go, one to the other) and if you're connecting it to a bolt, take some sand paper and scuff the bolt and the chassis like you said you already did.

The grounds could be causing impedence where they are now. To stop the voltage drop on the headlights you need to correct the over-use of the alternator. AT LEAST upgrade the power and ground to the alternator and engine/chassis ground to the battery, but if you do that, you might as well do the 3rd wire.

It'll help.

EDIT: Actually, I would suggest an odyssey 925 battery for your system over the optimas, it'll do what you need and save about half the weight. If you aren't concerned about weight and would like headroom to upgrade in the future, you can go with the odyssey 1200, but it's overkill outside of audio competitions pushing twice your power.
Old Jul 5, 2006 | 03:43 AM
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kool, hopefully tomorrow ill re-ground it! ill also look into a yellow top!
Old Jul 5, 2006 | 03:45 AM
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*see my edit to the last post, pretty important.

http://www.odysseybatteries.com/batteries.htm
Old Jul 5, 2006 | 04:10 AM
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Default single point grounding

ok here is a little trick i learned. take a piece of 18 ga primary wire pref. black and run it to all the grounds in your audio sys. this will keep the ground signal from reaching the batt at diff. times.
Old Jul 5, 2006 | 04:12 AM
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unless that's in addition to the primary grounds, I wouldn't recommend it. not only would you need to use ground points that could probaby crop up to be the same points, you will cause un-needed interference in resitance.

But his goal is valid, ensure that your equipment is properly grounded.
Old Jul 5, 2006 | 05:50 AM
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Redo the grounds... no ground dist block...

Best ground is somwhere factory wiring is ground too
Old Jul 5, 2006 | 07:05 AM
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whats wrong with a ground distro block? i use one and have no noise problems.
Old Jul 5, 2006 | 07:10 AM
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yanki, to me the problem sounds like it has to do with the wiring or the gain (since it only happens at high volume). the stock battery and alt should work with your amps fine.
Old Jul 7, 2006 | 02:22 AM
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otocan, that is an addition to the primary grounds sorry for the confusion.
Old Jul 7, 2006 | 02:29 AM
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well i just checked the gain's on both the amps, they were both a little past half so i put them right on half? I also re-tightened the wires from the xover which is what im thinking is making the music go back and fourth! Hopefully ill get some good results tomorrow. Ill let yall know.

p.s.- i havent been able to touch the grounds YET. hopefully tomorrow after work if im not busy ill do that!
Old Jul 7, 2006 | 05:18 AM
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red top batteries are made to perform when the system is on without the car running. The yellow performs the best when the car is running.
Old Jul 22, 2006 | 12:41 AM
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ok well i fixed the alternator whine which the ground was the problem!

NOW i still have the same with the speakers, although before it was the music going to the opposite side when i make a turn. It now sounds like when the wires are in an amp then removed while music is on and you keep doing it pulling them in and out its kinda like the music is cracking or when you have a bad reception on a radio station. the wires are tightly in the amp but i havent checked the others? I already tightened the xovers but need to check the tweeters. ill do that either tonight or tomorrow? Hopefully this crap stops.

PS- this speaker thing only happens when im first starting to drive as in the morning or when im leaving work? Pretty much like the alternator whine? IDK if that would help? After i drive for a couple of mins it goes back to normal?
Old Jul 22, 2006 | 05:45 PM
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im gonna try to re-wire the speakers and maybe the power wires too. Ill update later on. But usually it only happens the 1st time i start the car in the morning of when im leaving work when my car's been parked for 8-9hrs? Ill see...
Old Jul 22, 2006 | 08:48 PM
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well.......i rechecked the midbass wires and i found something! On the pass side when i took off the speaker the + terminal was already unhooked! Im that this was the problem! I made it tighter on both speaker terminals. Ill find out either later 2day or 2morrow?



Old Jul 30, 2006 | 06:37 PM
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fixed......bad set of RCA's! I took them back to my local tweeter where i got the things and got a new set! I still love Stinger!
Old Sep 9, 2006 | 01:01 AM
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Old Sep 9, 2006 | 03:07 AM
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congrats on solving the problem... always seems to be something big, but alwys turns out to be small and hard to find.




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