audio experts please help....
i have just put a system together and i wanted to know what else i would need. I got all 0 gague wiring, speaker wire, mtx 1501 d amp (1500rms 1 ohm), mtx 1004 (125rms x 4ohms 4 channel), eclipse avn 6610bt, polk audio sr 6.5 (2 pairs), and i have two subs setups that i am using both (mtx 9500 10" 2 of them) as well as switching them out with polk audio (sr 10" subs 2 of them), 30 band eclipse eq.
currently debating on a tsunami 20 fared or 40 fared capacitor
My system is running approx 2000 watts rms. I have upgraded the stock battery with a tsunami deep cycle but do i need a second one??
also is 0 gague to each amp enough??
what other electrical upgrades should i do??
all this is in a tc
currently debating on a tsunami 20 fared or 40 fared capacitor
My system is running approx 2000 watts rms. I have upgraded the stock battery with a tsunami deep cycle but do i need a second one??
also is 0 gague to each amp enough??
what other electrical upgrades should i do??
all this is in a tc
Well, I would run the 0 gauge into a distrabution block and use 4 gauge from that to the amps. Also I would do an alternator upgrade as well and if you can afford it then defiately get a second battery but other than that it sounds like everything would be ok. Oh, that 20 farad cap should be good enough, anything any bigger would be excessive. Are you installing this yourself? If so then you can get a ground distrabution block as well and run you're grounds from your amps to that distrabution block out to a 0 gauge and ground that on the chassis. Just make sure that your ground is as short as possible. But you should be ok with what you have. If you have any other questions you can pm me.
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dont do any capacitor....just get another battery, and if you can pay for an alternator go for it. Spend the money you wanted for that capacitor on some sound deadening instead also...
run 0 gauge from the battery to the distro block then run 4 gauge to your mono amp and 8 gauge to your 4 channel.
as far as another battery goes that only does so much. your alternator can't really put out enough to charge 2 batteries so you'd be better off doing the big 3 and upgrading your alternater. if funds don't allow for that you should just get another battery but be warned that it will not charge like it should.
as far as capacitors go here's the problem:
the alternator supplies *all* power to the car (electrical) when the engine is running.
a capacitor stores energy, then releases it, but it can only hold about 15 seconds (IF THAT) of charge before it's depleated and has to be recharged (by the alternator.)
If the voltage rails sag enough to cause light dimming, the alternator is not supplying enough current, so when you add a capacitor, the alternator is still overworked, and then has to recharge a depleated capacitor as well as supply power to the audio system and the rest of the car.
what the capacitor does do, is smooth out the spikes that cause the dimming, so that the problem *appears* to go away.
what really happens is that your lights are then continually dimmer so you don't "see" them go dim and bright all the time..
but the problem remains that voltage rails are sagging, the alternator is being overworked, and your amplifier(s) is/are clipping, causing distortion and damage to the speakers, and the alternator is being literally worked to an early death.
as far as another battery goes that only does so much. your alternator can't really put out enough to charge 2 batteries so you'd be better off doing the big 3 and upgrading your alternater. if funds don't allow for that you should just get another battery but be warned that it will not charge like it should.
as far as capacitors go here's the problem:
the alternator supplies *all* power to the car (electrical) when the engine is running.
a capacitor stores energy, then releases it, but it can only hold about 15 seconds (IF THAT) of charge before it's depleated and has to be recharged (by the alternator.)
If the voltage rails sag enough to cause light dimming, the alternator is not supplying enough current, so when you add a capacitor, the alternator is still overworked, and then has to recharge a depleated capacitor as well as supply power to the audio system and the rest of the car.
what the capacitor does do, is smooth out the spikes that cause the dimming, so that the problem *appears* to go away.
what really happens is that your lights are then continually dimmer so you don't "see" them go dim and bright all the time..
but the problem remains that voltage rails are sagging, the alternator is being overworked, and your amplifier(s) is/are clipping, causing distortion and damage to the speakers, and the alternator is being literally worked to an early death.
i did invest in very good component speakers
polk audio sr series is there best series
http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/products/sr6500/
900$ retail
second battery sounds like a good idea
ok so no capacitor
i was also thinking about battery isolator so in case one fails i could still drive the car
also does anyone make an upgraded alternator for our car yet?
reason i went so crazy is because i get a sick deal on tsunami, mtx, kicker, polk, eclipse
so i wanna make sure this car is decked out but working properly
thanx for all the help so far guys
polk audio sr series is there best series
http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/products/sr6500/
900$ retail
second battery sounds like a good idea
ok so no capacitor
i was also thinking about battery isolator so in case one fails i could still drive the car
also does anyone make an upgraded alternator for our car yet?
reason i went so crazy is because i get a sick deal on tsunami, mtx, kicker, polk, eclipse
so i wanna make sure this car is decked out but working properly
thanx for all the help so far guys
Originally Posted by nebster
run 0 gauge from the battery to the distro block then run 4 gauge to your mono amp and 8 gauge to your 4 channel.
as far as another battery goes that only does so much. your alternator can't really put out enough to charge 2 batteries so you'd be better off doing the big 3 and upgrading your alternater. if funds don't allow for that you should just get another battery but be warned that it will not charge like it should.
as far as capacitors go here's the problem:
the alternator supplies *all* power to the car (electrical) when the engine is running.
a capacitor stores energy, then releases it, but it can only hold about 15 seconds (IF THAT) of charge before it's depleated and has to be recharged (by the alternator.)
If the voltage rails sag enough to cause light dimming, the alternator is not supplying enough current, so when you add a capacitor, the alternator is still overworked, and then has to recharge a depleated capacitor as well as supply power to the audio system and the rest of the car.
what the capacitor does do, is smooth out the spikes that cause the dimming, so that the problem *appears* to go away.
what really happens is that your lights are then continually dimmer so you don't "see" them go dim and bright all the time..
but the problem remains that voltage rails are sagging, the alternator is being overworked, and your amplifier(s) is/are clipping, causing distortion and damage to the speakers, and the alternator is being literally worked to an early death.
as far as another battery goes that only does so much. your alternator can't really put out enough to charge 2 batteries so you'd be better off doing the big 3 and upgrading your alternater. if funds don't allow for that you should just get another battery but be warned that it will not charge like it should.
as far as capacitors go here's the problem:
the alternator supplies *all* power to the car (electrical) when the engine is running.
a capacitor stores energy, then releases it, but it can only hold about 15 seconds (IF THAT) of charge before it's depleated and has to be recharged (by the alternator.)
If the voltage rails sag enough to cause light dimming, the alternator is not supplying enough current, so when you add a capacitor, the alternator is still overworked, and then has to recharge a depleated capacitor as well as supply power to the audio system and the rest of the car.
what the capacitor does do, is smooth out the spikes that cause the dimming, so that the problem *appears* to go away.
what really happens is that your lights are then continually dimmer so you don't "see" them go dim and bright all the time..
but the problem remains that voltage rails are sagging, the alternator is being overworked, and your amplifier(s) is/are clipping, causing distortion and damage to the speakers, and the alternator is being literally worked to an early death.
Those polk audio SR6500's are an amazing set. how much did you get them for? I got 'em for 340 on clearance. Beware of people who are biased towards eD on here. They have ok products ( you get what you pay for), but there is better out there. Also i would ditch the capacitor and upgrade the alternator.
to get the most out of the SR's i suggest you get some sound deadner. You don't need to over do it and do the whole door because the stock tC's door is pretty decent. Other than that it looks like you're on a roll.
to get the most out of the SR's i suggest you get some sound deadner. You don't need to over do it and do the whole door because the stock tC's door is pretty decent. Other than that it looks like you're on a roll.
Quick newb question guys, this deadening stuff. I looked it up and it looks like paint/adhesive. Do you just "paint" onto the door and let it dry? If so then whats the point and how does it work. I went to eD to see what it was and it didn't explain well. Sry for the quick threadjack Rocky.
what it is is like a thick paste that you can paint on. once you paint it on it dries and acts as rubberish (more like trunkliner) stuff that prevents the door panel or whatever you apply it to from flexing and thus makes it "deader" and makes your stuff sound better.
yep really try to get the v4 (teklite) stuff for the doors. it works much better at eliminating road noise.
heres a good pic for ya
http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/ele...edeadwhere.php
heres a good pic for ya
http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/ele...edeadwhere.php
i actually wound up getting a ton of dynamatt extreme because i got it really cheap from my job
also i got the polk speakers for around 350 directly from polk
the polk speakers sound amazing but need a good deal of power
also i got the polk speakers for around 350 directly from polk
the polk speakers sound amazing but need a good deal of power
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