audio guru needed ^_^
10-07-2009, 04:28 AM
#1
audio guru needed ^_^
so i blew my kicker amp yesterday by running at 1 ohm 
caught fire too
(don't really feel like hearing "your retarded, you blew your amp, blah blah blah")
i know i am but whatever free replacement lol
but my new system;
componets amp 400 watts
sub amp 1600 watts (which is 1 ohm stable)
= 2000 watts total draw
is that too much to run on a stock tc's altenator/battery?
if not what needs to be done to get this to work?
obviously the big 3, i know
thanks everyone
caught fire too
(don't really feel like hearing "your retarded, you blew your amp, blah blah blah")
i know i am but whatever free replacement lol
but my new system;
componets amp 400 watts
sub amp 1600 watts (which is 1 ohm stable)
= 2000 watts total draw
is that too much to run on a stock tc's altenator/battery?
if not what needs to be done to get this to work?
obviously the big 3, i know
thanks everyone
10-07-2009, 04:46 AM
#2
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 21
id say get a yellow top, and put it in the back. run all 1/0 gauge be sure to have an excellent ground and you should be straight. The alt should be okay.
Be sure to properly fuse if you run a second bat
Be sure to properly fuse if you run a second bat
10-07-2009, 07:27 AM
#3
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: The Bay, CA
Posts: 83
Change out the stock battery itself if you do decide to go with the yellow top. There is no need to run a seperate battery for just the system. The stock alternator is more then enough to handle 2000 watts surprisingly. Ive been running a 15" Kicker L7 on a Rockford Fosgate T20001bd amp, Infinity Kappa Perfects all the way around running off of a Kicker zx350.4. No issues what so ever. I swapped out for the yellow top a couple months after i broke the system in, even the stock battery ran fine. No dimming at all
10-07-2009, 11:05 PM
#5
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: San Diego (Mira Mesa), CA
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Both should be fine with the new system, just do the big 3. The only reason to upgrade the battery or add a second one would be to increase the listening time with the car off.
Don't burn up the new amp!
Don't burn up the new amp!
10-07-2009, 11:18 PM
#6
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: The Bay, CA
Posts: 83
OPTIMA BATTERIES
Do yourself a favor and avoid Optima batteries at all costs! There are several other batteries that are MUCH better, including Kinetic, Scosche, Batcap, etc.
What makes you feel you NEED an Optima (or any other) battery?
Have you upgraded your "big 3"? I suggest doing this first.
I'm assuming you're looking at getting or already have a stereo system - with some "big amps". Usually the only thing a larger/upgraded battery will provide is longer engine off system play time.
Most amplifiers have enough internal capacitance to withstand even the most demanding bass tracks, and external caps are only a bandaid fix. Again, upgrading the "big 3" is key, and 99% of the time will cure any head light dimming, etc. Also make sure you've got the proper size positive cable(s) to the amps.
The differences between the Optima Red, Yellow and Blue are the rates at which they can charge/discharge. The Blue Top is the slowest (deep cycle), designed for marine use, and generally not a good idea for cars and/or car audio purposes.
The Yellow top is suggested by Optima as the battery for cars with upgraded stereo systems...BUT, they're wrong! Car stereo systems need to have the ability to draw energy quickly, and these batteries over time will fail due to the constant starting of the engine, and slower ability to accept a charge from the alternator. Add in the demand of the stereo, and you can see how this is making a bad situation worse....
Their Red Top is their most "normal" battery, with the quickest charge/discharge rate they offer. If you're 100% sold on Optima, this would be the only battery I'd consider. Again, look into Kenetic, Scosche, Batcap, etc. I've known too many people in the car audio community that have horror stories of the Optima batteries failing with no warning.
Let's take your beloved Optima Red Top (starter) battery for example. I looked at their website, and found a nice round number of 1000CA on their largest model. Cranking amps (CA) is the amount of current a battery can provide at 32 °F or greater. The rating is defined as the number of amperes a battery (at that temperature) can deliver for 30 seconds and maintain at least 1.2 volts per cell (7.2 volts for a 12 volt battery). Peukert's Law expresses the fact that the capacity available from a battery varies according to how rapidly it is discharged. A battery discharged at high rate will give fewer ampere-hours than one discharged more slowly.
That being said, I submit that NO street stereo system will draw anywhere near 1000amps - especially for 30 seconds because music is dynamic. Add the fact that the alternator is constantly charging the battery. I realize there are additional loads on the charging system, but still - plenty of power is available for street systems. The Scion alternator in the tC is 100amps.
Do yourself a favor and avoid Optima batteries at all costs! There are several other batteries that are MUCH better, including Kinetic, Scosche, Batcap, etc.
What makes you feel you NEED an Optima (or any other) battery?
Have you upgraded your "big 3"? I suggest doing this first.
I'm assuming you're looking at getting or already have a stereo system - with some "big amps". Usually the only thing a larger/upgraded battery will provide is longer engine off system play time.
Most amplifiers have enough internal capacitance to withstand even the most demanding bass tracks, and external caps are only a bandaid fix. Again, upgrading the "big 3" is key, and 99% of the time will cure any head light dimming, etc. Also make sure you've got the proper size positive cable(s) to the amps.
The differences between the Optima Red, Yellow and Blue are the rates at which they can charge/discharge. The Blue Top is the slowest (deep cycle), designed for marine use, and generally not a good idea for cars and/or car audio purposes.
The Yellow top is suggested by Optima as the battery for cars with upgraded stereo systems...BUT, they're wrong! Car stereo systems need to have the ability to draw energy quickly, and these batteries over time will fail due to the constant starting of the engine, and slower ability to accept a charge from the alternator. Add in the demand of the stereo, and you can see how this is making a bad situation worse....
Their Red Top is their most "normal" battery, with the quickest charge/discharge rate they offer. If you're 100% sold on Optima, this would be the only battery I'd consider. Again, look into Kenetic, Scosche, Batcap, etc. I've known too many people in the car audio community that have horror stories of the Optima batteries failing with no warning.
Let's take your beloved Optima Red Top (starter) battery for example. I looked at their website, and found a nice round number of 1000CA on their largest model. Cranking amps (CA) is the amount of current a battery can provide at 32 °F or greater. The rating is defined as the number of amperes a battery (at that temperature) can deliver for 30 seconds and maintain at least 1.2 volts per cell (7.2 volts for a 12 volt battery). Peukert's Law expresses the fact that the capacity available from a battery varies according to how rapidly it is discharged. A battery discharged at high rate will give fewer ampere-hours than one discharged more slowly.
That being said, I submit that NO street stereo system will draw anywhere near 1000amps - especially for 30 seconds because music is dynamic. Add the fact that the alternator is constantly charging the battery. I realize there are additional loads on the charging system, but still - plenty of power is available for street systems. The Scion alternator in the tC is 100amps.
What nodsetse said is correct. But why go through the hassle of running another battery to the back of the car JUST to increase listening time with the car off? The stock alternator and battery are more then fine for running a decently powerful system such as what you are planning to run.
10-08-2009, 02:36 AM
#7
Senior Member
Balliztik
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Washington
Posts: 9,538
you can run it fine as long as you use a proper set of wires that are 0/1 to get the power to the amps cleanly.......do the big 3,and i like to use Optimas just cause they are good batteries,but there are others as well that are good too......
you will use the peak wattage when it hits and honestly you will rarely run it long periods that loud......as it jsut will be painfull.
Also tune the amp properly using tone disks and a DMM.......this will give you clean sound and help a lot........
Make sure the subs are in proper size box and installed properly.......using good wires as well
Make sure to use sounddeadening in the car as it makes a differance in sound,big differnace.......rattles suck
Do it right once and enjoy.......halfass it and end up spending more timeand money doing it right the second time.......or third time....lol
you will use the peak wattage when it hits and honestly you will rarely run it long periods that loud......as it jsut will be painfull.
Also tune the amp properly using tone disks and a DMM.......this will give you clean sound and help a lot........
Make sure the subs are in proper size box and installed properly.......using good wires as well
Make sure to use sounddeadening in the car as it makes a differance in sound,big differnace.......rattles suck
Do it right once and enjoy.......halfass it and end up spending more timeand money doing it right the second time.......or third time....lol
10-08-2009, 04:24 AM
#9
10-08-2009, 06:43 AM
#10
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SL Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: The Bay, CA
Posts: 83
The Yellow top is suggested by Optima as the battery for cars with upgraded stereo systems...BUT, they're wrong! Car stereo systems need to have the ability to draw energy quickly, and these batteries over time will fail due to the constant starting of the engine, and slower ability to accept a charge from the alternator. Add in the demand of the stereo, and you can see how this is making a bad situation worse....
Their Red Top is their most "normal" battery, with the quickest charge/discharge rate they offer. If you're 100% sold on Optima, this would be the only battery I'd consider. Again, look into Kenetic, Scosche, Batcap, etc. I've known too many people in the car audio community that have horror stories of the Optima batteries failing with no warning.
^^^from my quote up above..
as far as knockoff dynamat, check out hushmat, brownbread by bquiet, and fatmat..theres usually pretty good deals on ebay..i order 120 sq ft of hushmat for 145 shipping included
Their Red Top is their most "normal" battery, with the quickest charge/discharge rate they offer. If you're 100% sold on Optima, this would be the only battery I'd consider. Again, look into Kenetic, Scosche, Batcap, etc. I've known too many people in the car audio community that have horror stories of the Optima batteries failing with no warning.
^^^from my quote up above..
as far as knockoff dynamat, check out hushmat, brownbread by bquiet, and fatmat..theres usually pretty good deals on ebay..i order 120 sq ft of hushmat for 145 shipping included
10-08-2009, 02:35 PM
#11
10-08-2009, 08:16 PM
#13
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: San Diego (Mira Mesa), CA
Posts: 2,338
I hear ya, but you gotta be careful with that type of spec, it just depends on the specific amp you got, but you didn't say what it is.
Some amps are rated for a 1 Ohm load and put out considerably more power than they do at 2 Ohms. If you got one of those, great. Other amps may state "1 Ohm stable", but don't put out much more power (sometimes even equal to or less) compared to their 2 Ohm spec. In that case, they're more meant for a 2 Ohm constant load, but are able to handle impedance fluctuations for the few milliseconds where the load is lower, as impedance changes dependent on the frequency being reproduced. Many have found that such amps aren't always stable with a nominal 1 Ohm load, as it'll dip down to below 1 Ohm, depending on the the sub system and signal demands.
So which "1 Ohm stable" amps did you get?
Back to your original question - If you're not having any issues now, just keep using your current battery until it dies, no need to spend money on a new one until you have to.
Some amps are rated for a 1 Ohm load and put out considerably more power than they do at 2 Ohms. If you got one of those, great. Other amps may state "1 Ohm stable", but don't put out much more power (sometimes even equal to or less) compared to their 2 Ohm spec. In that case, they're more meant for a 2 Ohm constant load, but are able to handle impedance fluctuations for the few milliseconds where the load is lower, as impedance changes dependent on the frequency being reproduced. Many have found that such amps aren't always stable with a nominal 1 Ohm load, as it'll dip down to below 1 Ohm, depending on the the sub system and signal demands.
So which "1 Ohm stable" amps did you get?
Back to your original question - If you're not having any issues now, just keep using your current battery until it dies, no need to spend money on a new one until you have to.
10-08-2009, 11:03 PM
#14
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Virginia Beach
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Wow.. there is so much misinformation in this thread I want to gouge my eyes out....
I'll just offer something useful. OP, Home Depot and lowes both sell asphalt backed aluminum, remarkably, its the same exact thing dynamat offers up at 6 times the price. Its usually in the roofing section.
As for the Optima battery debate, if they weren't as good as everyone says they are, then why have they been one of the standards used in car audio for alot of years? I myself have used Optima batteries in every vehicle I've owned (red and yellow tops) and not once have they ever failed. I'm also in the military and in our security boats that I work on, we use blue tops and I've only had a couple fail, and thats usually from them getting damaged from not being strapped down, getting broken from people stacking heavy stuff on top of battery boxes. Yes stinger, kinetic, scosche, batcap all make very good batteries, but alot of those are 2 and 3 times the price of an Optima.
I'll just offer something useful. OP, Home Depot and lowes both sell asphalt backed aluminum, remarkably, its the same exact thing dynamat offers up at 6 times the price. Its usually in the roofing section.
As for the Optima battery debate, if they weren't as good as everyone says they are, then why have they been one of the standards used in car audio for alot of years? I myself have used Optima batteries in every vehicle I've owned (red and yellow tops) and not once have they ever failed. I'm also in the military and in our security boats that I work on, we use blue tops and I've only had a couple fail, and thats usually from them getting damaged from not being strapped down, getting broken from people stacking heavy stuff on top of battery boxes. Yes stinger, kinetic, scosche, batcap all make very good batteries, but alot of those are 2 and 3 times the price of an Optima.
10-08-2009, 11:24 PM
#15
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Spotsylvania, VA
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First of all he shouldn't even get a battery unless one is needed, if he is having problems now then maybe he should look for one. On my old car I had 2 amps hooked up to a regular $70 battery and it ran fine for the 3 years I had the car. So why even worry about a battery if one is not need.
10-08-2009, 11:58 PM
#16
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Location: Virginia Beach
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First of all he shouldn't even get a battery unless one is needed, if he is having problems now then maybe he should look for one. On my old car I had 2 amps hooked up to a regular $70 battery and it ran fine for the 3 years I had the car. So why even worry about a battery if one is not need.
Good point as well.
10-09-2009, 03:00 AM
#17
yeah i just wanted to know if the battery could keep up and i wasn't sure how many amps the alternator is, someone said a 100 so im good =]
just need to get around to doing the big three and fixing my grounding system =[
shipping my amp out today! just gunna keep my stock battery for now.
just need to get around to doing the big three and fixing my grounding system =[
shipping my amp out today! just gunna keep my stock battery for now.
10-10-2009, 02:07 PM
#18
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Location: Rocklin, CA
Posts: 450
Do the Big 3, its what I have to do at this point too my amps are drawing too much juice for the stock system and my subs are cutting out =( Once you do the big 3 test, if you still need more get a redtop, if you still need more get a cap or kinetic powercell to run in the back
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