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Old 05-31-2010, 08:43 AM
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Default audio tech assistance

hi..

i have some general questions about amp and subwoofers..

for instance.. if i was to run a 10w6v2 jl audio 10" subwoofer..600 watt rms-1200 max would i buy a amp that is 600 watt or 1200 watt..? should i buy something that matches the rms or the max wattage? what happens if i go over the rms or max or under?

thanks!
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Old 05-31-2010, 11:22 AM
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Alot of audio stores pitch the max watts to people that don't know anything about subs/amps. Max watts is what the amp/sub can only be handled for brief time periods before potentially damaging it. RMS is the true value of the sub/amp this is what the amp plays at without much risk. (that's assuming a perfect install)

I'd recommend getting an amp that runs a little over the RMS like 800w.
That's so you can crank it without worry of running over the 1200w max rating. You also don't want to push a sub with too little power. Doing that can damage the sub.
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Old 05-31-2010, 02:15 PM
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get an amp that is 2006 CEA compliant.

it means it was tested to be sure the wattage is true, peak and rms.



get a mono class D JL audio amp, all of them are CEA compliant
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Old 05-31-2010, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by namesrooster
hi..

i have some general questions about amp and subwoofers..

for instance.. if i was to run a 10w6v2 jl audio 10" subwoofer..600 watt rms-1200 max would i buy a amp that is 600 watt or 1200 watt..? should i buy something that matches the rms or the max wattage? what happens if i go over the rms or max or under?

thanks!
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_s...php?page_id=35

This should explain everything
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Old 05-31-2010, 06:20 PM
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i would run the jl 500/1 slash amp. it would be ideal for your sub.
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Old 06-01-2010, 07:56 PM
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rms is what you are looking for

RMS = root mean square or average

Think about RMS and Max this way. Say you can bench 100lbs all day everyday.

Now lets say your max is 250lbs and you are really stressing to put up the weight, you can, but not as long and you start to over heat.

Same with a sub or amp. They can do close to max for short periods of time.

Please remember RMS is just a numbers game, wattage fluctuates with frequency as well as volume level

id give the sub 600-800rms
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Old 06-02-2010, 07:18 AM
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so what im getting at from all of these replies are. if for ex. i have a 500 rms watt sub 1000 max get something thats a little more around 600-800 watt amp..
or 300 watt rms and 600 max. get around 400-500 watt amp?

same goes for speakers?
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Old 06-02-2010, 02:11 PM
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dont go by max

some companies greatly exaggerate the max to make em seem like high wattage amps

yes, find an amp around 500-800 rms. Try to stick with a known quailty brand

What is your budget?
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Old 06-02-2010, 05:07 PM
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Read the link I posted earlier. 600-800 watts like blazeplacid recommends would void the warranty. 500 watts is ideal...600 is the maximum RMS it can handle.

The enclosure type also makes a difference in power handling. Sealed will handle the most power. Ported will handle less. Infinite baffle will handle the least.

Last edited by Makaveli; 06-02-2010 at 05:15 PM.
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Old 06-02-2010, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by blazeplacid
dont go by max

some companies greatly exaggerate the max to make em seem like high wattage amps
x2! i love when i see people with garbage amps from wal mart that claim like 800 watts but when you look and the rms is like 200-300 lol
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Old 06-02-2010, 05:33 PM
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sony xplodes claim 1200max but rms at 150w
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Old 06-08-2010, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Makaveli
Read the link I posted earlier. 600-800 watts like blazeplacid recommends would void the warranty. 500 watts is ideal...600 is the maximum RMS it can handle.
ive always fed my subs more than recommended and have had great success

Im running a RE Se 10" with 900rms, the sub is rated at 600rms. been going strong for 5 months
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Old 06-08-2010, 11:33 PM
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Power ratings are a guideline...you can do what you wish but you best believe the manufacturer won't help if you send back a fried coil.
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Old 06-09-2010, 12:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Makaveli
Read the link I posted earlier. 600-800 watts like blazeplacid recommends would void the warranty. 500 watts is ideal...600 is the maximum RMS it can handle.

The enclosure type also makes a difference in power handling. Sealed will handle the most power. Ported will handle less. Infinite baffle will handle the least.
600 is not the max it can handle...most subwoofers are underrated, because companies know people will push them hard! i bet it could handle 750rms if you know what your doing, and have a good unclipped signal.
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Old 06-09-2010, 01:59 AM
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Like I said earlier...you can give it more but it would void the warranty.
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Old 06-09-2010, 03:00 AM
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Originally Posted by STlTCHES
Alot of audio stores pitch the max watts to people that don't know anything about subs/amps. Max watts is what the amp/sub can only be handled for brief time periods before potentially damaging it. RMS is the true value of the sub/amp this is what the amp plays at without much risk. (that's assuming a perfect install)

I'd recommend getting an amp that runs a little over the RMS like 800w.
That's so you can crank it without worry of running over the 1200w max rating. You also don't want to push a sub with too little power. Doing that can damage the sub.
800 rms will butcher that sub, get a jl 500/1(half slasher) or a kicker zx300.1, theyre good amps ive had a few
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Old 06-09-2010, 03:02 AM
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Originally Posted by GQQSE13
x2! i love when i see people with garbage amps from wal mart that claim like 800 watts but when you look and the rms is like 200-300 lol
more like 100-150rms out of that crap (lightning audio,pyle,boss,phoenix digital,low end sony,audiopipe,new hifonics)
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