d34/78 yellowtop (size that fits our battery tray)-
55 AH, 750 Cold Cranking Amps

HC600
Ah: 20, Amps: 850

HC1800 (size that fits our battery trays)
Ah: 81, Amps: 1900

kinetik>optima

 

current not amperage harrison.

 

and at the cost of the kinetik (375 msrp) vs. the cost of the yellowtop (189 mrsp) i'd take the yelllowtop anyday

 

ive got a red top...
ive got my big 3 in 1/0 wire...
im pushing 1950 watts....
i cant remember ever seeing over 13V in my car.

cruising around town, with stereo at my driving volume my car normally runs around a 12.7

im wanting a new alt but dont wanna pay for it just yet.

 

gub...


current is measured in ampere's


and who ever pays MSRP
http://cgi.ebay.com/hc1800-KINETIK-B...QQcmdZViewItem

 

right but its not called amperage. that doesn't exist.

call it amps call it current but don't call it amperage.

 

where did i ever say amperage? i think you need to lay off the crack O.o

 

haha, nice stealth. thats like a huge pet peeve for me. also keep in mind that when your calculating current its not as simple as just saying watts / voltage you have a lot of losses due to resistances in wires as well as other consumers of the power such as headlights a/c etc...

its not as simple as you say but yes its a good estimation

 

Glad you brought that up, I was about to point out the same. There are standardized wire resistance tables anyone can use to find values for guage and length, so you can determine the voltage drop. What's more important and many don't consider, is that the wire terminations are usually more resistive than the wire itself, but this is easily seen by comparison with a DMM.

And most important of all, when determining the power requirement (amount of current drawn in amps) and using the "current=wattage/voltage" equation, you can't simply use the amp's output wattage and get an accurate figure. You also need to know how efficient the amp is at that wattage level and factor that in to get the real number you want. It'd be nice if they were 100% efficient, but for all the power they consume, some of their output is heat, it isn't going to your speakers. This isn't as much of a factor with Class D amps compared to AB, with the former often being ~85% efficient, where the latter rarely exceeds 70% at the best point (typically dropping down to 30-35% at lower levels) in their operating range.

 

^ great addition

thank goodness i switched to a Class D amp.. the power consumption was another reason i switched from an AB amp.

happy bday orange.. mines coming up too!
also, i thought the yellowtop was better for audio than the redtop was.

 

well im not sure about this but from the altenator to the battery positive since theres already a wired ran for that and since it would be a parallel circuit. the factory wire and the new 4awg wire would have to be the same length or else the current is goign to take the path with least resistance..and i think the stock wriring from altenator is 4awg well it look like it...im not sure u might wanna try unhooking the factory connecting wire from the altenator and safety it off..like i said im not sure though but its worth a try. i would tell u to disconnect the wire going to the altenator that hoooks up to the batter buy idk how difficutl that is since my cars not around

 

oh yea and kinitic and a few other companies make performance audio batteries but they are kinda pricey i got my yellow top for 50 bucks so idk u do the math

 

so... accounting for all the resitance of wires/inefficencies/etc, the current drawn would actually equal out to more amps?