Doors locks
#1
Doors locks
So my car warrantly ran out and about 100 miles later my car door locks decide not to work. Sometimes theyll open but mostly they wont open with the remote or through the button inside the car. My dealer says that its a problem in the door activators and itll be like a $1000 a door. Just wondering if anyone has any experience with this problem and what the best course of action would be.
#5
I haven't seen this in a tC, but when I used to install aftermarket locks we'd trouble shoot like this:
1. check the lock fuses. If blown, replace. Otherwise continue.
2. Find the actuator. Meter the wires while flicking the lock switch. If you meter 12v+ there, the actuator needs replacing. If no voltage, continue on.
3. Meter the leads off the back of the switch. Look for both a constant input (good) and an output that goes from 0 to 12v+ only when you hit the switch. If constant power is missing, keep tracing the power back into the car since it may be cut due to a bad wire, or the fuse, or (rarely) disconnected from the back side of the fuse box.
4. if constant is @ the switch, but no pulsed output when you press the switch. Replace the switch.
G/L and <3 your volt meter.
*note* Some car locks are the inverse of this. That is, the + will be constant at the actuator, but the - will be switched. Just keep in mind while metering.
1. check the lock fuses. If blown, replace. Otherwise continue.
2. Find the actuator. Meter the wires while flicking the lock switch. If you meter 12v+ there, the actuator needs replacing. If no voltage, continue on.
3. Meter the leads off the back of the switch. Look for both a constant input (good) and an output that goes from 0 to 12v+ only when you hit the switch. If constant power is missing, keep tracing the power back into the car since it may be cut due to a bad wire, or the fuse, or (rarely) disconnected from the back side of the fuse box.
4. if constant is @ the switch, but no pulsed output when you press the switch. Replace the switch.
G/L and <3 your volt meter.
*note* Some car locks are the inverse of this. That is, the + will be constant at the actuator, but the - will be switched. Just keep in mind while metering.
Last edited by kileil; 03-07-2010 at 04:38 PM.
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