HU- P880-PRS
Front Comps- Rainbow SLC 265 kicks
Comp amplifier- JBL PX600.2
Rears- none, remove stockers
Subwoofer- Alpine 10" Type-X
Subwoofer amplifier- JBL BP 1200.1
completely sound deaden interior with raamaudio deadening. Doors will be deadened completely also.

This is all going into an '06 Scion tC


I'm assuming i'm going to need at least a new battery. Is the cars electrical system going to be able to handle the system with just a battery upgrade or should I look at doing the big 3 and possibly a new alternator? I like to play it pretty loud and don't want to deal with dimming of the headlights at night.

Is the component set going to be able to keep up with the sub, or are the mids and highs going to sound drowned out? I've heard that most of you guys dislike rear fill, but is it going to be necessary to keep the mids and highs hearable? If so, will the rear fill speakers (will be rainbow slc coax's) be fine running off the head unit at such high volumes?

Will running a single 1/0 awg wire to the back and then through a distribution block forming 2 4 awg strands going to the amps be alright or should I run two separate 4 awg's to the back?

Should I run the ground wires comming out of the amps through a distribution block so that theres only 1 wire that has to be grounded to the chassis or will two wires be fine?

what size wire should I use to connect amp to sub and amp to the crossovers included in the rainbow comp set? Also, in the rainbow speaker setup, does it include wiring to go from the crossover to the speakers or do I supply that? If so, what size?

I would like to do an active setup, but this is my first real system and i don't feel like screwing anything up. Am I missing out on much by using the comps passively instead of making it an active setup?

Thanks in advance. If i think of anything else, i'll letcha know

 

Personally I would still run rear speakers... I know it is a semi controversy with hard care SQ guys who want everthing to be as it is live which would put all the sound in front of you but for sheer volume and balance of the cars interior sound I would add new rear speakers, In my systems I add rear speakers and have them toned down so they do not overpower the front but I dont think I will ever run without rear speakers again, i just wasnt happy with the fullness of sound


.... just my 2

 

You should be good with a new battery and big 3 along with good wiring... one 1/0 dist to 2 4ga. should be just fine unless you just want to go with 2 seperate 4ga's.. don't use dist block on ground, just run 2 4ga. grounds...

the fronts shouldn't get drowned out by the sub, if it does, turn the sub down a little bit...your gains are there to help balance the sound... just don't set them too high cause you'll clip the signal and possibly blow your speakers / subs..

 

anyone suggest some wire sizes comming out of the amps and going to the sub/crossovers/speakers

 

well i used Stinger 12AWG from the amp(JL 500/1) to the sub(JL 10w6v2)

then used Stinger 16AWG from the speakers to the xover to the amp, i actually color coded them! I had black and white speaker wire! Looks sweet, well you cant really see it. I would suggest getting a new battery which is what im doing this weekend, im getting the Optima Yellow Top. I have SOME dimming but only when its loud! Which is not that offten. Im getting the alternator whine and it gets annoying so i turn off my system!

 

someone explain the physics behind this.

you run a huge wire from battery to amp and then run a relatively small wire from amp to speakers.

How can that be?

power wire draws alot of amps at low wattage while the other wire has high wattage but low amperage?

 

cause its speaker wire, which doesnt need that big of a wire for power to run through, so ive heard?

 

you answer is amperage... A very large amount of amperage is being drawn from your battery to run your amplifiers because they require alot of power to run your speakers, high amperage = high heat and higher resistance, which is why strand count of a wire is so important, the more strands the less resistance that will create voltage drop...however your amps are taking the raw amperage and transforming it into wattage basically, wattage carries very low amperage because it does not need alot of power... so think of it this way... power wire carries ALOT of power, amplifier condenses power and sends out wattage to speakers, speakers play noise of some sort... its kindsa hard to explain without getting too technical but basically your amp is converting something and needs alot of power to do it

 

i understand... the reasoning was exactly what I thought it was

 

looks like ti should be a nice setup

What about a sub box? what are you using for that?

 

way to put in a sales plug there harmonic... lol...

 

shhhhh, lol

I still have lots of materials left! haha

 

I want one of your boxes actually. I like the stealth design because I have to carry around ab unch of detailing supplies all the time and normal sub boxes get in the way of a vacuum and bins of supplies.

 

well then lemme know. should only be a 2 week turnaround

 

I need help... My stock stereo is hooked up to my 2 10" JBL subs with 1200wat amp. all installed by cartoys. When am sitting it sounds fine and when i start moving the bass gets a lot louder and doesnt sound too good. but if am sitting and hit the gas in park or neutral the bass doesnt change so i thought it might be a power problem but am not sure now. I need help on what is going on. Does Scion stock stereo have a road noise inside the stereo or is it the battery, alternator, not enough power or what???? Someone help....

 

yeah, the stock stereo has a feature that increases volume as you increase speed (used to cancel out road noise). click the center **** a couple of times until you see low/mid/high, and then turn the **** to low.