Alright so I just got my sub and box in and put them in my car. The sub runs off a PDX1.600 and my RSD components run off a 2.150. All was going fine and I started to adjust gains and filters, etc. when both the front stage, then the sub stage died and all I could hear was my rears off the HU. I go look at the amps and they're blinking blue. I refer to the owner's manual and there is NO info about the lights blinking blue, only red. I don't know what to do...all connections SEEM to be good.

Anyone have any ideas? :-( I just put this in today!

 

hmmmmm..... not sure what to say about that. some kind of protection kicked on maybe? did you try turning the car off and back on? triple check all your wiring.

 

so wasnt a blown fuse? my sub did that if i had it really loud. but i would turn off the ignition and turn it back on and everything is fine.

 

if you need some help i can help you out....
I dont know what the problem is but could help you troubleshoot

 

Thanks for all the replies guys but I think I got it mostly figured out. I took the power and ground on the front comps and pulled them out, respun them, and then smashed them back in and cranked down the set screws as HARD as i could and it seems to be okay. When I hit 45/62 on my HU and keep it there for 5 mins, the comps go out again, but back it down and they come back... it's just such a tight area where I have my amps that the wires are very smashed together. But either way, the sub sounds AMAZING! My dad was going crazy about it. I've yet to really get the gains set correctly and I think I might cross them at 80/63 as opposed to 63/50 which they're at right now (comps/sub) to see how it sounds. But so far, I'm really happy with it! Hits very low and VERY hard for a 10". Ported box made all the difference

And Tcguy, I'll take pics tomorrow for you, too dark right now.

Thanks again!

 

i wanna hear it :-(

 

Haha, I can try to take a sound clip tomorrow, we'll see how it goes. Video on my phone might work too, I'll try it

Gonna pump some daft punk and tiesto through it in a little bit to check out the trance/techno scene in my car :D

 

haha we should meet up in person that would be easier!

 

Haha, yea I totally forgot that you were right down in White Marsh man! I go down to Middle River every other week to stay at my other house. We could meet up with the other Mid-Atlantic tC's around here sometime.

 

yeah let me know

 

i wanna come play too!!! i'm all the way up in NY. but i already know what the rsd comps and the Dayton sub sounds like. i own them both!

the comps are great for the money and sound even better run active. the sub is just to nice for words.

ADDED:

try all sorts different crossover points. but i think you'll find that crossing the comps at 63hz/12db and crossing the sub at 50hz/12db, on paper it sounds like you'd have a gap but trust me it'll blend together nicely like that.

right now since i changed my setup quite a bit today i have my rsd comps and the Dayton HO sub both crossed at 50hz/24db.

since i switched to network mode on the 880PRS it unlocks the higher crossover slopes which work out very nicely.

 

Well unfortunately, we've got problems. The amps keep cutting out on me randomly, but typically at higher volumes. However, when I wiggle the wire that feeds the inline fuse between the battery and the distibution block, the amps cut out and then wiggle some more and they come back. I also notice sparks jumping across the fuse in the inline holder when you wiggle the wire!!! One wiggle it actually arced completely across the fuse and the amps went dead again...

Now what I cannot understand is that if it were to be a surge of power, then the fuses would blow, but they haven't. And if it's not enough power, then why does it work sometimes and not others... Now all i can figure is just crank down my connections as much as I possibly can and see what happens. The only thing that the amps share is power and ground and both of them almost always go out together and react in the same way with a blinking blue light. I called Alpine Tech and they had no clue whatsoever and said maybe a speaker is bad, but this is BS as all speakers including sub fire when they're working.

If anyone has seen this before please help me out! I'm running on original battery and stock alt if it makes a difference... system total is 900wrms at FULL tilt, so it should have enough power... I don't get it.

Thanks in advance though :-\

 

ohhh no if there are sparks....you gotta make sure everything is a solid connection.
A few months ago I was wondering why my amp kept on shutting off the sound (at high volume), but the power light was still on and the thermal and protection was off. I was confused for a while, come to find out my distribution block under the hood wasn't making a solid connection, I fixed it and it is all normal now.

 

sounds like a bad connection somewhere if wiggling things make the problem go away. not to sure. have trialsndude help ya out. i would but i'm a little far away.

i had a fuseblock that was all messed up a while ago that would make my sub cut out. check ALL your connections.

also are the amps getting warm at all?

 

No the amps are completely fine as far as temp. It's only 35F here and I have the hatch up and they're not even warm to the touch. And yea I've smashed down all the connections I could easily get to, but I need crescent wrenches for my distro block, so I'll have to do that tomorrow... And the inline fuse... I don't even know what's up with that. Sparking when I wiggle the cable is scary ____. I know that isn't right... if I can't figure it out, I might just have to go visit trials. There's no way I'm drawing too much power or draining the batt too much right? It's the stock stuff, but I didn't think it was crap, and I wasn't even blasting it!

I dunno... there's SOO many connections it could be lol... I just know that BOTH amps do it together, so that narrows it down a bit :-\

 

there is no way you are drawing to much power. i know that. thats def not the problem. i would be concerned with whatever connection you say is arcing or sparking.

def have trialsndude look at it. he seems to be pretty good with car audio as well. i've seen and read his stuff on here. have him look at it if he's close to you.

 

What kind of distro block are you using that you need crescent wrench?
Which line is sparking/arcing?

 

It's a Konfused block, link here: http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...?prodID=KNF-12

and a KnuKonceptz inline fuse holder, link here: http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...m?prodID=FH-44

The line that is sparking is the one from the batt to the fuse holder right at the connection to the fuse holder... it only arced one time and it went from one side of the fuse to the other Are you working this week trials?

 

I have the Knu also, that thing burned up and it was scary...I haven't had a chance to buy a new one yet, but I rigged it so that is working right now. (took it apart, somehow I end up making a good solid connection)
Make sure you are using the right adaptor for the gauge wire you are using.
That compression fitting is tricky, you have to have enough wire hanging out on the other end of the "nut" so that you can bend all the wires back a decent amount. Then its all about cranking it down as tight as you can.

Check for frayed wires sticking out of the distro block or fuse holder.

Make sure your grounds is SOLID! Where did you mount the ground at?

 

I ran the ground to a bolt by the right tail light. I know it's not the best spot, but I sanded the panel there and cranked it down good, all went well with it when I only ran the comps. And do you mean that you have the Knu distro block? What do you mean it burned up?

I'm thinking about restripping those wires and bending more back over the fitting. But we'll see how the inline fuse holder goes tomorrow... I'm gonna smash the bejesus out of all the connections I can, I can't have these breaking loose again, ever.