ZTC

just get a standalone battery for the system

Tcguy85

wrong. the next step if your grounding points are all good is to do the big 3 in some 4 or 0 gauge wire. the big 3 is a great help and cheap as well. way cheaper and more effective than a cap.

ZTC

i honestly dont even think the big 3 really would help all that much. its not some miracle product/mod that automatically increases your cars efficiency tenfold.

but if i get non debatable facts ill gladly eat my words.

OP: just go on realmofexcursion.com and search their threads because they run a hell of a lot more watts then most people on here and do it themselves so they know what they're doing in most cases so it might help to ask your questions on there.

Tcguy85

the big 3 will help more than adding a cap. also i agree completely with rocketgyrl about HO alternators. it is true that they usually don't even make the same output at idle as a stock alternator. a battery with a low ESR might help a bit as well but i think the next step is to do the big 3.

i just did it a few days ago and i should have done it months ago.

rocketgyrl

Start eating your words. The Big-3 mod certainly DOES work. Countless people have done it and ALL of them expressed how surprised they are with the results. It should be the FIRST thing you do - ideally at the same time you install an amplifier. Since you're only going on speculation, why don't you find some facts that prove the "big-3" doesn't work, or go and do it to your own car!

Tcguy85

^^^^^ do what she says! do the BIG 3! it DOES work! it works very very well.

combatsteve

While the big 3 may help the problem still exists that you are pulling more current then the alternator can produce and the battery has stored therefore your lights are dimming once the storage capacity of the battery decreases. Basically you are driving around all the time pulling too much power from the car and never letting the system recover. You could charge your battery periodically with a charger and that would help or get a new alternator. Other then a change in listening habits I think those are the two things that will solve the problem of you lights dimming.

Tcguy85

but a H.O. alt should really not be needed with only a thousand watts. the big 3 should be plenty.

combatsteve

did you even read my post before replying?

equinox2355

Well then a better battery with the big 3 will really help a lot then, like as I said, the kinetik battery will help a lot and they have a calculator to find the right one for you.

rocketgyrl

The OP still hasn't replied to my 1st question regarding the manner in which the amplifier is grounded...

That being said, we can all agree that the Big 3 needs to be done. We know this will lower resistance in the charging system, and help meet the demands of the amplifier (and ideally stop the headlights from dimming). Let's see if he'll take our advice, and see if that solves the problem. If not, there are other (more expensive) options he has - alternator/battery.

datdude1119

HAHA! i love audio post..there funny to read

Nick06tC

There is ZERO reason to use a battery charger EVER on a car just because you have a system.
All you have to do is turn the music down for a bit or run the car without playing the music and the battery will quickly return to a good charge. I have been on many sites and I must say this is the first time I heard put the battery on a charger for a basic sound system setup.

(now if he was running 5-10 batterys and changing them out during blurps, then yes, its a good idea, but you werent refering to that)

combatsteve

Umm I said that he needs to turn the music down and let it recover. I was using the battery charger as another option. And yes if he doesn't let the system recover by turning the music down then using a battery charger is a good option so I don't know why you would say that there is zero reason to use one.

Tcguy85

i think i'm officially done trying to talk car audio on this site. it's just useless. there are only a select few on here that actually know what they are talking about when it comes to car audio. i won't name names but i think they know who i am referring to.

THERE IS NO NEED FOR EXTRA/DIFFERENT BATTERIES, HO ALTS, OR CAPS WHEN ONLY USING 1000 WATTS. do the Big 3 in nice big 0 gauge and be done with it. when the battery wears out in 4-6 years like all batteries do, then replace it with an Optima, or Kinetik or whatever you think may be better than stock. but there is no need to go crazy with only 1000 watts. i have 1200 watts of inefficient class a/b amps and i am fine with just the big 3 done.

ZTC

lol ok words eaten.

nebster

dude if you don't want dimming just get HID's lol those things don't dim because of the ballasts

combatsteve

I'm sorry but how many watts your system is rated at is not the only factor to look at. Listening style has a lot to do with it. A person can not listen to a very powerful system very loud and have no problems and a person with a less powerful system that cranks it up all the time can have all kinds of problems. The fact of the matter is that the more the system is turned up the more amps it will pull. A 1200 watt rms system can cause problems to a car electrical system if listened to very loud all the time and could require things other the the big 3.

Honestly I don't think you know too much about what you are talking about so stop talking crap about other people. This is a forum and people give their opinions in them so if you can't handle that then don't read them.

Tcguy85

i just don't agree with really anything you say. i have 1200+ watts, and i listen to my system at pretty high volumes and get almost no dimming at all. and i know for a fact at time i am pushing A LOT of power out of my amps. the teeny tiny bit of dimming i get is no big deal. wouldn't notice it unless you were really looking for it. i do not expect to have any problems running this kind of power in my car.

you're also the guy that tried telling me because i have an underlap in between the crossover points on my tweeters and mids that i will be "missing" information in that range which is not true. i proved it to you and you still disagreed.

so i think YOU do not know what you are talking about.

combatsteve

Look I am not interested in a ____ing match with you. Yes I did tell you that you have a gap in sound(not information since we are not talking about a computer) and that was because you do and there is no argument about it. Your crossovers leave a 2khz gap if I remember correctly. Also stop saying how much power you have running you say that in almost every post or thread if you can somehow relate it, nobody cares. And don't tell me that I don't know what I am talking about I have years of professional experience installing and am MECP certified. I gave my opinion to the person that started the thread and you are the one trying to go around attacking everyone's ideas because you think that the only thing that anyone needs in the BIG 3. Well welcome to electronics and electrical systems there are other things that can and need to be done sometimes.

Oh yeah and PS YOU ARE NOT ALWAYS RIGHT SO STOP ACTING LIKE IT.


Now my apology to the thread starter for this nonsense.