ive had a kicker sx1250.1 amp for about 4 years now it used to power 2 12'' L7 4ohm wired in 1 ohm about two weeks ago i decided to downgrade to 1 12" L7 2ohm wired in 1 ohm. recently my ap has been shutting off whether the head unit (Eclipse AVN52D) was in max volume or little volume.

the amp has a digital display and shows a "sick bay" its been showing "lo volts" and it also has a voltage readout it goes from 13.8 down to about 10 and shuts off then turns back on will play for a little and does it again...whats up is it my battery or alternator? also i have 2guage rockford fosgate competition wiring.

any suggestions....

 

You'll need to find out if it's your car's electrical system or the amp's electrical system going bad. Get another voltmeter and check the actual voltage across the amp's 12v+ terminal to ground while you're testing the amp. If both amp and voltmeter read the same, then you have a problem in your power path. If that's so, check all your connections (ground integrity, battery clamps, etc). If your voltage readings are different, your amp has a problem. Amps can wear out over time, and 1ohm loads are rough on amps, despite what the manufacturer says.

BTW, is your speaker enclosure one large open box (both speakers share the same open space), or is it divided in two (one enclosure space per driver)?

 

i used to have 2 l7s in a sealed (but divided) box now i only have 1 l7 in a kicker ported box

 

definately get it tested with a volt meter. it could be the battery now supplying enough power, alternator going bad, or could be a wire not completely tighted either on the battery or the amp ( i had that issue before to where it wasn't as tight as should be) check the batter and amp connections first since they are simple and then check the voltage with a meter. if you dont have one autozone will do this for free.

 

i have used a voltmeter im getting about 14 when the car is on at the amp power wire then it will slowly drop to about 11-12v then itll just spike down .01v and come back to 11-14v

what other tests should i do

 

did you check the connection on the batt and the amp to make sure they are secure? cuz seems like its good then it loses connection in a way

 

FIXED IT i think it was the connection at the fuse holder by the battery i just swapped the fuse (which wasn't blown but very corroded) and everything is mint now imagine that!!!

 

glad to hear you got it goin