More system wiring questions...
I've read many many many threads now, and still want to be cleared up on two things, which I'm sure many people want to know.
1) Instead of using a line out converter, when using an amp that accepts high-level input with the stock head unit: Is it easier to run the speaker wire and tap in behind the head unit OR tap in the panels near the rear speakers?
2) The remote turn-on cable should be plugged into the blue wire in the harness... OR the gray wire in the harness? I've heard both. From the sound of things, it seems that normally every aftermarket head unit uses a blue line, but our stock HU uses the gray line (or else the amp won't turn off). OR I've heard others say to use the cigarette lighter or the power antenna. Is there even a power antenna hook up in the tC?
Thanks in advance. Oh, and where do you get wire taps anyway?
1) Instead of using a line out converter, when using an amp that accepts high-level input with the stock head unit: Is it easier to run the speaker wire and tap in behind the head unit OR tap in the panels near the rear speakers?
2) The remote turn-on cable should be plugged into the blue wire in the harness... OR the gray wire in the harness? I've heard both. From the sound of things, it seems that normally every aftermarket head unit uses a blue line, but our stock HU uses the gray line (or else the amp won't turn off). OR I've heard others say to use the cigarette lighter or the power antenna. Is there even a power antenna hook up in the tC?
Thanks in advance. Oh, and where do you get wire taps anyway?
1. Personal preference really. If you aren't using RCAs, I'd just go from behind the rear speakers as it is a shorter distance. Actually, I would go with a LOC behind the headunit, just because eventually, I'll be upgrading my headunit and everything will already be behind there ready to go.
2. No idea on the wire color because I haven't installed my system yet, but blue stands out in my head for some reason. You could always go to the cigarette lighter at the fuse box.
Wire taps can be purchased at any hardware store in the Electronics section.
2. No idea on the wire color because I haven't installed my system yet, but blue stands out in my head for some reason. You could always go to the cigarette lighter at the fuse box.
Wire taps can be purchased at any hardware store in the Electronics section.
1. It's a personal choice, either way works fine. The rear side panels are a biscuit to remove imo, but once they're off the splicing into the rear speaker wires is easy. I took what I see as the easier route, splicing into the wires at the back of the HU, and placing my LOC under it, then using RCA cables to the rear. In your case I think it'd be easier to connect to the HU, but then you'd need to run speaker wires from there all the way to your amp. Sill, might be easier than removing the rear panels, you'll just have to make a choice.
2. I'm a bit confused on this too. I've looked at the plugs for various units, and it seems to me that the pinouts may be different between different years, and if the HU has additional controls for sat radio or other things. Because of that, I went the cigarette lighter wire route, since it's only hot when the key is in the acc or greater position anyway. I went a step further by wiring in a toggle switch, to control the system beyond just the key (like if I want the car running, but don't want the amps & external processors to power up). To do this, tap into the black wire going to the cigarette lighter, right before the plug where it goes into the lighter.
3. There are several types of 'wire taps', some better than others, each having it's own advantages and drawbacks. There are only a couple types types I usually recommend;
A. Euro-style
These are my favorite, cut & strip the wires, insert and tighten with a small screwdriver. They can be easily cut apart to individual pieces or however many you need, and they're resuable.
B. Butt-connector
Cut & strip, insert & crimp, but they're not reusable.
Some people use these because they're so fast & convenient, but I recommend against them because the connection is marginal and prone to issues over time.
2. I'm a bit confused on this too. I've looked at the plugs for various units, and it seems to me that the pinouts may be different between different years, and if the HU has additional controls for sat radio or other things. Because of that, I went the cigarette lighter wire route, since it's only hot when the key is in the acc or greater position anyway. I went a step further by wiring in a toggle switch, to control the system beyond just the key (like if I want the car running, but don't want the amps & external processors to power up). To do this, tap into the black wire going to the cigarette lighter, right before the plug where it goes into the lighter.
3. There are several types of 'wire taps', some better than others, each having it's own advantages and drawbacks. There are only a couple types types I usually recommend;
A. Euro-style
These are my favorite, cut & strip the wires, insert and tighten with a small screwdriver. They can be easily cut apart to individual pieces or however many you need, and they're resuable.
B. Butt-connector
Cut & strip, insert & crimp, but they're not reusable.
Some people use these because they're so fast & convenient, but I recommend against them because the connection is marginal and prone to issues over time.
1. I would reccomend LOC... i got on havent got my whole system set yet but its plug n play so easy to use and everything will be done when you are ready to upgrade HU.
I got mine from Alpman on yoursciontc.com there is also another like it on ebay
http://www.yoursciontc.com/forums/in...showtopic=5506
2. Its the blue +12 and it is a constant. If you get that plug n play or another one like it it will have a remote turn on lead.
I got mine from Alpman on yoursciontc.com there is also another like it on ebay
http://www.yoursciontc.com/forums/in...showtopic=5506
2. Its the blue +12 and it is a constant. If you get that plug n play or another one like it it will have a remote turn on lead.
ok i have the bazooka oem sub and am not going to use it anymore...i will be upgrading to the sq10 and was wondering if i could tap of the bazooka wire harness? the amp i have only has a connection for the + and - . how would i go about using this harness or would i need a Line output converter thanks for your help
shane
shane
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