Power Wire D-Block
#1
Power Wire D-Block
My old car had 2 amps. One 4-channel (Alpine MRV-F540) for the door speakers and one bridged 2-channel (MTX Thunder 4202) for the 12" sub i have. I had a 4 gauge wire run from the battery to the trunk with a 100A fuse near the battery. In the trunk I had the 4 gauge enter a D-block with 2 fuses inside that went to two 8 gauge wires. These 8 gauges connected to each amp.
This time around, I only want to hook up one of the amps for just the sub. Can I use everything I already have and just run one 8 gauge out of the D-block? Will something bad happen if there is only one amp hooked up to such a configuration?
Thanks.
This time around, I only want to hook up one of the amps for just the sub. Can I use everything I already have and just run one 8 gauge out of the D-block? Will something bad happen if there is only one amp hooked up to such a configuration?
Thanks.
#4
it doesnt matter if you keep the fuse in the other side. as for the firewall there is rubber grommet under the steering wheel that looks like a volcano. You can squeeze the power wire through that into the engine bay.
#5
it is better to have a 4wg wire instead of 4 to 8, in fact if you look at the D BLOCK i bet it can have 4 gauge wire come out of it too!!!! so go find your self some extra 4 gauge wire, alot of them have a spacer in them that you can take out so a 0 or 4 gauge can fit in them. as for the fuse you should take it out!!!! you can never be to carefull... if you didnt that would mean that thiers a live 12 volts just chillen for no reason at all.
#6
Ok, here's the deal. If at all possible, its best not to use the distribution block at all! Ideally, you want to run the 4ga. wire all the way to the amp. But here's the catch. The manufacturer recommends a minimum of only 10ga. wire, so 4ga. is a bit of overkill. Also, since that amp has the screw type of terminals, it's nearly impossible to get that gauge of wire to work. Go to your local car audio shop (not bestbuy or circuit city) and try see if they have 4ga. spade terminals (if possible, take the amp, to make sure they will fit. If they won't fit, then by all means use the distribution block and go down to 8gauge. It doesn't matter if you leave the extra fuses in there, since they're not connected to anything, but it would look a lot cleaner if you took them out. Just make sure it's a 30amp fuse at the distribution block.
#7
I see the volcano thing with a bundle of wires going through it, but I don't see how I can get the 4 gauge wire through here. It seems sealed. Also, what I think is the other side of it in the engine bay doesn't seem like it has much room to allow for a cable to go though. Are there any other options? I'm stuck here.
#8
Originally Posted by wazzu_coug
Ok, here's the deal. If at all possible, its best not to use the distribution block at all! Ideally, you want to run the 4ga. wire all the way to the amp. But here's the catch. The manufacturer recommends a minimum of only 10ga. wire, so 4ga. is a bit of overkill. Also, since that amp has the screw type of terminals, it's nearly impossible to get that gauge of wire to work. Go to your local car audio shop (not bestbuy or circuit city) and try see if they have 4ga. spade terminals (if possible, take the amp, to make sure they will fit. If they won't fit, then by all means use the distribution block and go down to 8gauge. It doesn't matter if you leave the extra fuses in there, since they're not connected to anything, but it would look a lot cleaner if you took them out. Just make sure it's a 30amp fuse at the distribution block.
#9
Originally Posted by scruff311
I see the volcano thing with a bundle of wires going through it, but I don't see how I can get the 4 gauge wire through here. It seems sealed. Also, what I think is the other side of it in the engine bay doesn't seem like it has much room to allow for a cable to go though. Are there any other options? I'm stuck here.
#10
I am running the wire from the inside of the car to the engine bay. Once I am through the grommet, how can I get it far enough into the bay so I can attach to the battery? Is there any drilling required? How does the "Clothes Hanger" technique work? Thanks for all of the help.
#11
if you go through the groumet then thiers no drilling but if your going through the firewall then thiers drilling. if your drilling then you should be useing a unibit / step bit, if your going through the groumet then you should be useing a groumet poker ( a hollowed out peace of metal with a sharp end that the 4 or 8 gauge wire can pass through) you could also very carefully make a slice with a razor blade just enough to get the wire through(do it on both sides) the fuse comes off with a allen key so you can go from inside to the engine bay. once you feed it through just pull then put the fuse HOLDER back in. NOTE DURING THE INSTALL THE FUSE SHOULD BE OUT AND THE LAST THING YOU DO.
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