Question for all tC owners who have a "system".
How powerfull is your system? How bad does your car shake? Has anyone dynomatted their tC?
I'm gonna get the 13Ov.2 Subwoofer and the NINe.2 Amplifier. Do you think i will have excessive shaking or should i get something less powefull?
The Subwoofer is 600 W rms.
The amp is 400 W rms.
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I'm gonna get the 13Ov.2 Subwoofer and the NINe.2 Amplifier. Do you think i will have excessive shaking or should i get something less powefull?
The Subwoofer is 600 W rms.
The amp is 400 W rms.
[/i]
Amp is a little weak for the sub in your app.
I'm running 125w RMS into each of the four full-range channels (Alpine MRV-F545) and 200w RMS for the low end (Infinity Basslink). I've deadened the doors and rear quarters in mine, really helps cut down on the tire noise from the horribly loud stock tires. Improves the low freq response on the midranges as well. Can take th ex-overs down to 50hz with no buzzing or other annoying noises from the doors.
For a sub, I have only a Basslink, so rattles are not an issue-- and please note, that's not due to low output, it's due to the sub's design. Very environment friendly (aperiodic membrane).
I highly recommend 2 layers of damping on the rear quarters and wheelwells, and at least one layer on the doors. I left the foam blocks in on the doors and worked around them, but removed the blocks from the quarters.
I'm running 125w RMS into each of the four full-range channels (Alpine MRV-F545) and 200w RMS for the low end (Infinity Basslink). I've deadened the doors and rear quarters in mine, really helps cut down on the tire noise from the horribly loud stock tires. Improves the low freq response on the midranges as well. Can take th ex-overs down to 50hz with no buzzing or other annoying noises from the doors.
For a sub, I have only a Basslink, so rattles are not an issue-- and please note, that's not due to low output, it's due to the sub's design. Very environment friendly (aperiodic membrane).
I highly recommend 2 layers of damping on the rear quarters and wheelwells, and at least one layer on the doors. I left the foam blocks in on the doors and worked around them, but removed the blocks from the quarters.
i did no sound deading at all. I have one 400watt sub. There is no shaking or rattling right now.
However, i do haev sqeausk and rattles when i hit bumps. due to taking apart and putting back together my interior a few times id guess...
However, i do haev sqeausk and rattles when i hit bumps. due to taking apart and putting back together my interior a few times id guess...
I push a infinity 10" with 300w RMS and no dynamat. If i wanted the gut pounding bass it does shake some interior pieces. I don't max out my amp/sub combo but I have tested it and I get some rattle mostly internal though. Only outside piece that's iffy on a tC is the piece above the license plate that can get loose.
PM Mandos about the edi products....he knows alot about them....
I'm runnin 632 RMS to 2 subs and 150 RMS to the components up front..... Locomotive sound deadening....trunk rattles a little but only when my amp's turned up....on the outside, pretty much just the license plate. my rear quarters flex alot on the outside....
I'm runnin 632 RMS to 2 subs and 150 RMS to the components up front..... Locomotive sound deadening....trunk rattles a little but only when my amp's turned up....on the outside, pretty much just the license plate. my rear quarters flex alot on the outside....
I have my Kenwood Excelon KAC-X621 1200w amp (300w RMS x 2) push my Pioneer 12" 600w sub (300 RMS) and for normal driving, I have bass set to 5 and SSP set to SSP Hear. When I want to hit hard, I set it to SSP Feel. It rattles alittle with SSP Hear but I haven't checked it with SSP Feel yet :D
12" Omega tube....PERFECT for inside, hardly any noise outside of the car. Infinity Kappa perfect components (front), and infinity kappa 6.5 2-ways (rear). XM tuner for my aftermarket pioneer.....everything sounds AWESOME!
first off- do not use the stock hu please! distortion is a b*tch at high volume. Otherwise, the TC has a lot of sound deadening material already. make sure you put some foam tape on the back of your license plate, and dont leave anything loose when working on your car (hopefully that goes without saying). I think this would be sufficient. Sound deadening would without a doubt help, but it's additional weight, so it depends what sacrifices you want to make.
1. You get distortion from the head unit? I'd like to think not, and more than likely that's the amp clipping causing your harmonic distortion. You'er playing beyond the limits of your amp and the driver. You will be perfectly fine with the stock head unit, you have to buy a quality device to convert the hi-level signal (commonly called a high level, or line out convertor). A few examples of *quality* line-out convertors are JL Audio's Cleansweep, Audio Control's LS6, Phoenix has one, etc. Don't go get some cheap rad shack one or you'll get low quality, leading to several problems. Stock isn't bad, the products used in conjunction are bad.
2. Additional weight? Yeah, you're gonna gain 30 lbs or so max if you deaden the whole trunk twice and put a layer in the cabin. Do you ever have friends ride with you? Tell them to lose weight. The weight is equivalent to losing maybe 2 hp. If those two hp are that important to you, then you can justify not deadening, to an extent. Doesn't it kind of counteract the purpose to throw all this extra audio equipment in there? Aren't you adding weight that way?
2. Additional weight? Yeah, you're gonna gain 30 lbs or so max if you deaden the whole trunk twice and put a layer in the cabin. Do you ever have friends ride with you? Tell them to lose weight. The weight is equivalent to losing maybe 2 hp. If those two hp are that important to you, then you can justify not deadening, to an extent. Doesn't it kind of counteract the purpose to throw all this extra audio equipment in there? Aren't you adding weight that way?
I always recomend dynamat if you put in a "system". It will greatly increase sound quality of youre sound. You aslo wont leak as much sound out of the car. It will really give you a more solid sound. I just did my doors today and when you knock on the door from the outside its like knocking on concrete.
Wow this is an old post. Im pushing 2 Type R's (500RMS X 2) with a Hifonics 1000RMS amp. I turned it up a bit, and wow do i have some rattles. I am also getting some rattles on the outside, not nearly as bad as my Focus, and all i had pushing those in that were 2 250rms rockford amps, with 2 X .5farad caps.
Any recommendations? Im proly gonna have to dynomat (and by dynomat i mean edead, as it seems to be the favorite with the forum)
Any recommendations? Im proly gonna have to dynomat (and by dynomat i mean edead, as it seems to be the favorite with the forum)
for a cheap alternative
i used that carpet dampener material
its at home depot for 30 cents a foot.
i did my entire trunk and quarter panels for 12$
its great until i can edead it.
i used that carpet dampener material
its at home depot for 30 cents a foot.
i did my entire trunk and quarter panels for 12$
its great until i can edead it.
Dynomat is must.. I tell you what , once I installed that stuff I realized that the car should have sounded like that from the begining ! You actually add more more bass to you car ! no joke!....
i have 4 10's in my car each sub is 500 RMS an my car dont rattle but I have put 100Sq foot of Dynamat-- it helps alot-- i put it every where it may look like it may rattle--I stripped my whole car though pulled out the back seats all the panels-- my car still rattles a lil bit in the back but my stero guy is goin to fix that for me-- an my sun roof rattles a lil bit-- i just dont turn it up that loud
sean
sean
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