It's not really the color of the fluid that matters (color doesn't really signify what type of chemicals are used), just the chemical makeup of the fluid.

Look at the second to last post.

https://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=131754

 

ahhh.. there ya go..

silicates.. that's the word i was looking for.

 

BMW is low-silicate, but not silicate free. I'm ordering Engine Ice, they are silicate-free, and use propylene glycol instead of ethylene glycol so it's non-toxic as well. It does conversely cost more and will need an annual change ($20 1/2 gal retail, premixed)

http://www.engineice.cc/auto.html

They do also have an agreement with Killer Glass. Tim from KG posted on the Scikotics forum that they are working on a coolant write-up. He said the first draft written by their chemist was only readable by rocket scientists, so they're doing a rewrite in laymans terms for those of us who are unfamiliar with anti-corrosion metallurgy.

 

Any word on that coolant write up???
i think i am going to go with engine ice as well...

 

so will i have to pull my underbody off to drain the fluid? Should I just drain it all and put a new container back in or just drain it till it is low enough and then top it back off with the new?

Also, how did u guys wire it? I don't want it on when the car is on. I am thinking bout making a hood switch so it cuts on when the hood is lifted.

 

Wired it to a manual switch in the center console, Oznium OEM style rocker. Also put a fue on it, but wired the LED in parallel with the Cold Cathode engine bay lighting. Can't speak for the tC fluid draining, on the xB I just had to remove the plastic shrouding on the underside of the car. Toyota did an awesome job on the radiator, there is a little tube on the drain plug that points directly down. mBack the plug out halfway and it drains in a consistant stream, no spilling out everywhere and on other engine parts. it took about 5 flushes for me to cvompletely remove the red before I put in blue.

To flush, drain what you can, refill with deionized or at least distilled water, start the car and wait until it warms up. You'll see it when the water really starts flowing through the killerglass tube, this means the entire system is actually being circulated. Turn off the vehicle, drain and repeat. You should be able to drain with it hot, just don't back the drain plug all the way out.

If you keep the same color, i.e. just replace the hose, just drain a bit, swap the hose, and refill. I didn't even pre-drain, just let it flow out of the hose when I disconnected with a catch pan underneath.