Sound Deadening Questions
I have searched and read the threads I could find regarding sound deadening the tC. I did not find the answers I was looking for in my searches so I thought I would post them up.
I am getting ready to upgrade a few components to my audio system. This will be my first venture into sound deadening even though I have done many basic installs and wirings. I am not looking to make my car dead silent from all outside noise. I am looking to quiet the loudest areas and work from there.
I know it has been beaten to death but the first questions are about eDead v3 vs v1se.
1. Since I only have one car and no garage, I need to be able to drive the car shortly after application. I understand that this will need done in stages with that in mind. I watched the video and the guy makes it seem like only minutes to dry. How long will it take to dry enough to replace the carpeting and body panels and to be safe for humans to sit inside the vehicle?
2. Please help me understand a little better about the eDead line...
v1=Good, but basic and would likely require more than one layer
v1se=Better than v1, possibly two layers
v3=liquid form, equal to or better than v1 depending on layers
v4 teklite=good, but is to be used in conjunction with above deadening
Am I reading into the thread and their site correctly? I'm wanting to start my project next weekend or so. The v1se is out of stock and likely not going to be in stock in enough time for me to order it. So it comes down to v1 vs v3.
2. Which do you prefer (liquid or sheet form)? What are some of the pros/cons of each installation type?
Just me looking at it, it seems as though the v3 would be more manageable. What I mean is it seems that it form fits to curves better, requires no cutting of materials, and is a cleaner install overall. Right now, I am only going for a basic deadening and only doing one or two layers in some key areas. That brings me to my next question.
3. Which areas would you rank as the highest area of need for deadening material?
I read Mandos thread on his deadening project. I could have read into it wrong, but it seems his order of importance was..
1. Front half of rear wheel well
2. Doors
3. Hatch floor
4. Rear quarter panels
5. Floor
Another audio guru the forums suggested this ranking...
1. Rear quarter/side panels
2. Front doors
He states the floors are pretty good stock and the roof usually is not needed.
Anybody have any person experience or suggestions they would like to share?
I am getting ready to upgrade a few components to my audio system. This will be my first venture into sound deadening even though I have done many basic installs and wirings. I am not looking to make my car dead silent from all outside noise. I am looking to quiet the loudest areas and work from there.
I know it has been beaten to death but the first questions are about eDead v3 vs v1se.
1. Since I only have one car and no garage, I need to be able to drive the car shortly after application. I understand that this will need done in stages with that in mind. I watched the video and the guy makes it seem like only minutes to dry. How long will it take to dry enough to replace the carpeting and body panels and to be safe for humans to sit inside the vehicle?
2. Please help me understand a little better about the eDead line...
v1=Good, but basic and would likely require more than one layer
v1se=Better than v1, possibly two layers
v3=liquid form, equal to or better than v1 depending on layers
v4 teklite=good, but is to be used in conjunction with above deadening
Am I reading into the thread and their site correctly? I'm wanting to start my project next weekend or so. The v1se is out of stock and likely not going to be in stock in enough time for me to order it. So it comes down to v1 vs v3.
2. Which do you prefer (liquid or sheet form)? What are some of the pros/cons of each installation type?
Just me looking at it, it seems as though the v3 would be more manageable. What I mean is it seems that it form fits to curves better, requires no cutting of materials, and is a cleaner install overall. Right now, I am only going for a basic deadening and only doing one or two layers in some key areas. That brings me to my next question.
3. Which areas would you rank as the highest area of need for deadening material?
I read Mandos thread on his deadening project. I could have read into it wrong, but it seems his order of importance was..
1. Front half of rear wheel well
2. Doors
3. Hatch floor
4. Rear quarter panels
5. Floor
Another audio guru the forums suggested this ranking...
1. Rear quarter/side panels
2. Front doors
He states the floors are pretty good stock and the roof usually is not needed.
Anybody have any person experience or suggestions they would like to share?
Ive done several vehicles but nothing to extreme cases,
MainlyTrunks / Hatches, Doors and so forth.
My xB (http://www.b-quiet.com/big/scionxb2.jpg) I used B-quiet extreme and it worked and laid down really well, I prefer the Mat over the paint on.
For my tC so far I have only done the inside trunk section and plan on doing the hatch and doors soon. Im using the ED V1SE for that and it works and lays down well.
MainlyTrunks / Hatches, Doors and so forth.
My xB (http://www.b-quiet.com/big/scionxb2.jpg) I used B-quiet extreme and it worked and laid down really well, I prefer the Mat over the paint on.
For my tC so far I have only done the inside trunk section and plan on doing the hatch and doors soon. Im using the ED V1SE for that and it works and lays down well.
I think 'goop' or any form of liquid sound damping material is far too messy and a hassle to work with.
I feel the least important surface to dampen is the roof and hatch. Damping the vertical surfaces (doors, quarter panels, etc.) in the tC, as well as the floor is going to yield the best results.
Here are some pics of mine:


I feel the least important surface to dampen is the roof and hatch. Damping the vertical surfaces (doors, quarter panels, etc.) in the tC, as well as the floor is going to yield the best results.
Here are some pics of mine:


Originally Posted by blazeplacid
well if you need it and dont get it done in one day you can just mount the drivers seat and drive it.
Thanks for the pics Rocketgyrl! It always helps me see/hear what you are talking about and get ideas.
Hmm..interesting. So far not a single sole has liked the liquid versions. It seems like cutting, using a roller, and applying constant pressure would be more demanding than using a brush and thick paint.
...but that is why I am here! Never messed with it...keep the info coming! I never claim to know everything..
I just finished installing my sound deadener. I used Raammat so there was no need for a roller. I have used the liquid stuff before and I hated it! I agree with rocket girl the doors and the rear panels seemed to make the biggest difference to me. I also did mine in stages. Check out these links they may help you.
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...722&highlight=
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...ighlight=sound
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...ight=sound#top
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...722&highlight=
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...ighlight=sound
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...ight=sound#top
Originally Posted by lil_will
I just finished installing my sound deadener. I used Raammat so there was no need for a roller. I have used the liquid stuff before and I hated it! I agree with rocket girl the doors and the rear panels seemed to make the biggest difference to me. I also did mine in stages. Check out these links they may help you.
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...722&highlight=
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...ighlight=sound
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...ight=sound#top
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...722&highlight=
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...ighlight=sound
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...ight=sound#top
You went all out!! I'm looking for a cheaper price route for right now. I figured I could always add more as I got the funds.
Originally Posted by noservice2001
@ crabbyman - how do you breakdown the eDead UE?
and @ sciondrgn- since you have used both, which gets rid of sound better? the eD or b-quite?
and @ sciondrgn- since you have used both, which gets rid of sound better? the eD or b-quite?
Im not totally done doing the tC but the B-Quiet Extreme so far as been the best ive used. (Ive also used Dynamat at Circuit City when I worked there) and B-Q seems to be about the best. Now once I get a chance to layer the tC another round and do the doors I will see if the ED works just as well
Originally Posted by noservice2001
so you suggest staying away from dynamat?
In my personal vehicles in the Past (00 Cavalier and my 05 xB) I used the B-quiet Extreme http://www.b-quiet.com/extreme.html - If you look at the install section under scion xb thats my pw box on there page, but it was really early pics I never sent any in after I had finished the sides, roof and doors.
And now im just starting to use the ED stuff in my tC, I still need to do the doors and hatch and put another layer in the trunk area.
careful... b-quiet extreme is asphalt based an WILL pull away/drip in higher temperatures.
I would not use it for anything other than horizontal surfaces. Additionally, tape the seams with Duct tape to prevent any of the asphalt material from escaping.
Look for something butyl based. Second Skin and Dynamat have always been highly recommended, and both are butyl based deadener's.
Check out http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/ for an actual comparison. (keep in mind, it was done in 2005... it may be slightly outdated)
I would not use it for anything other than horizontal surfaces. Additionally, tape the seams with Duct tape to prevent any of the asphalt material from escaping.
Look for something butyl based. Second Skin and Dynamat have always been highly recommended, and both are butyl based deadener's.
Check out http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/ for an actual comparison. (keep in mind, it was done in 2005... it may be slightly outdated)
There's a new version of eDead that's thicker than v1se2, called eDead UE. Also has a layer of aluminum similar to Dynomat extreme. It's $3.50/sq ft, but can potentially save you time & sweat by cutting back a layer. Both v1se2 and UE are butyl based.
dang- the 20% eDesign coupon code "SCLifeB" seems invalid- and shipping is $95 for $113 worth of eDead UE (to Hawaii).... does anyone have hookups they could share?
*********edit********
dang Mandos just sent me "eDeadBA" and said they could also fedex instead of ups
cheers
*********edit********
dang Mandos just sent me "eDeadBA" and said they could also fedex instead of ups
cheers
That's life on the island brah, crazy shipping prices! My 50 sq ft of eDead v1SE2 was pretty damn heavy. You can also search 'forum discount' on ed's website to get forum pricing on certain items, including most of the eDead stuff except the new one.
I saw the uE listed in there.
I know there is a Scionlife discount. It does not include the uE though.
The uE MIGHT be better for a few of the areas I am looking at doing right now. I've got a wad of bills for this project and a concealed sub. So I'm flexible to what I am getting.
...so the regular V1 is still asphalt based?
I know there is a Scionlife discount. It does not include the uE though.
The uE MIGHT be better for a few of the areas I am looking at doing right now. I've got a wad of bills for this project and a concealed sub. So I'm flexible to what I am getting.
...so the regular V1 is still asphalt based?
contact mandos.... he's getting me a deal with the UE... i think its cuz they're currently out of stock of v1se...
btw, how stinky is this.... i guess we soon shall see....
btw, how stinky is this.... i guess we soon shall see....






