well, there's 2 things-
1 - the glass might crack(doubt it but who knows what numbers i may hit)
2 - the glue holding the glass might separate from flex.

If i could design it another way which if i knew how to, i WOULD, but this design is killing me.

I have to build a box in the back with the rear seats in their factory position with a box size externally of 4cuft and have room for 3 amps! one of which is over 20" long a 30band EQ and a 3way crossover and a Kinetik HC2400 battery that is 13" long.

I have emailed Fi with some suggestions of a setup but have yet to receive a reply.

To tell you guys the truth, i'm beginning to think i should go sealed, like 4 10s sealed with 4,000w.

that way, the box can be smaller so i can have more room.
But i dont know if i'll like the low bass output?

My last setup was a 15" Audioque HD3 in a 7cuft box @ 29hz off a 2,500w amp in a crown vic.

 

The box is 4cuft before displacement, dimensions are 40" wide x 14" high x 17" deep. Being 14" high it doesn't even reach the top of the rear seat.
If you emailed Scott at Fi he prolly wont get back to you for a while since he's busy building subs and stuff. Email shawn@ficaraudio.com or Nick@ficaraudio.com they will usually get back to you in no time.

I wouldn't worry about the rear glass flexing since it isn't flexing in my case, just the roof flexes.

 

So I went to a DBdrag today...

End up hitting 140.6db, not a bad score, could do better with some fine tuning and burping a tone instead of playing a short sweep, played a 45-35hz sweep since i didnt have test tone cd. Could have gotten a higher score if i was in mini street I could have ran it with the car on and tried to maintain a 13.5-14v charge, but in Street B had to run it with the car off, so 10-11v. I'm sure i could have hit at least 141db or 142db with the car running. I ended up getting 2nd place in Street B.

I also did the bass race, got into the 130-139.9 bracket, played a lil jon song first "throw it up" end up doing 136db. Went into finals because I got a bye round, and played Young Jeezy "Thug Motivation 101" and end up peaking at 138.8db. Got 1st place for bass race.

It was a good day.

 

i doubt you would drop down to 10v-11v. I'm not saying i wouldnt believe it but the batt that's in the tC floats well over 13v. I do not know the specs, CA aH, etc but i do know that my batt floats well over 13v so with the car off wouldnt hurt too much.

What you need to know is exactly what i need to do, hehe

Go to a local shop who has a meter, it doesnt matter what kind, as long as it can read accurately or not, above at least 140dB.

Get a sealed box and put it in the trunk facing he same way u got your sub now and play individual tones but not as loud, you do not want your sub heating up too quick.

Record the loudest frequency and do it again if u want.

That loudest frequency is what u need to peak at.

Even though i intend NOT to compete, i will still find the peak frequency for SPL and bass race and then decide whether i want to build my box for daily and leave it at that or build it with an interchangeable port for different occassions...

 

fun videos
i remember when i had my sunroof replaced under warrenty
when i first put my system in (which can hit 150 dbs daily)
i blew the seals on the sunroof and had it replaced under warrenty
ive since turned it down.

 

well that's just great....
That might be bad news for me then.

I know u said for daily but some music is normalized like bass tracks such as a lot of lil john\404 soldierz, etc...

Shawn at Fi suggested i run 2 12" BLs off of a 3,000w amp in the back, subs back, port back, tuned to 35hz.

I hope i don't damage anything.

 

That would be a killer setup!!!

But yeah with the car running, running the amp at full tilt with the test tone with the car running the voltage will drop to 12.0 if i can hold the revs at 2k rpm it will come up to 13v. I was to busy adjusting the volume and sub level output, so i didnt get a change to look at the voltage (through the AVIC-D3). So thats why I assume 10-11v.

But non the less it was fun, I just did it for ____s and giggles. I don't know if I will ever do another db drag. Now it just gives me my little bragging rights! LOL

And it always make me feel better that I can be louder than people that have more subs or more power, this one car had 4 15" kicker CVRs and only hit 133db!

 

Oh, I am willing to do that setup. I just gotta find the right design so everything will fit properly.

That is good info for stock tCs about your voltage info.

Sounds like the Panasonic batt doesn't like large discharges even though 100 amps isn't that large I would have assumed for this batt.

I guss I'll still replace it with an HC1800 and put another one in the back.
The alt is gonna be built by Iraggi, it's a 300A alt, 140A at idle!, price after shipping is 565 dollars.

Again, it will be a while before I get done with all this, but nice info from all of us bout the tC.

 

I dont think that 1800 will fit in the front. I was talking to the one guy last night, he's a kinetik dealer and he said our little battery spot will be tough to fit it, that battery is taller than ours. Its not the width, its the height that wouldnt fit. I thought about going that way too, is get an 1800.

 

keep the stock battery till it's shot, but get one of kinetik's smaller batteries and stick it in the trunk. how many watts rms are you putting to that sub?

 

with 2 batteries you will be put in a different class, for example I was in street B, if i had a 2nd battery, i would be bumped to street c.

Putting 1500watt-ish to it, its powered off a RF T10001BD amp birthsheet said 1526watts at 1ohm

 

well, in my case, 1,500w

The height of the stock i believe is 9in with post, i'll go out there in a few to confirm that. The HC1800 with post is 8.9.
I got stinger terminals on mine with covers that go over the top instead of around them like the stock terminals do and it still closes fine.

Gimme a few more minutes and i'll post what the total hieght of mine is with these new terminals.

 

ok got the numbers-

stock with posts- 8.875"
HC1800 with posts - 8.9"

Stock with posts AND stinger top mount terminals - 9.375"

I have no problems so again, it should fit.

 

hmmm interesting....

 

interesting, i think you should be hitting a little higher number. i have a ten inch treo ssi subwoofer getting 800 rms in a ported box and i expect to be hitting 138-140ish with it. so i think u can hit a higher number than me using a 15 with that much power.

a guy in my car club has an expedition with a single 12" bravox edx and is getting 143 on bass mekanik stuff, not even test tones. so i think ur setup is capable of more. :-)

 

I'm sure most setups are capable of more.

Take my buddy who lives about an hour away from me in KY. He just broke some street class in MECA with 1 18" TC 4HP and 2 Adassa 5,000w amps hitting a 155.x in a jeep cherokee.

That's hella awesome but if u want both daily and spl, then there will always be some limitations.

 

yup, i'm just telling him i think his setup is better than he thinks it is. maybe he set his gains very conservatively. i have my sub level set pretty low normally but i'll turn it up a bit if i wanna show it off or if i ever end up goin to a comp. normally i have my system setup for as much sq as possible but with a decent amount of bass.

 

I always use my oscilloscope to setup my equipment for the loudest clean signal. Sometimes, though, I turned it up past the "safe zone" when showin off and man did it get loud!

Metered at only 664w on 1 audioque HD3 15, I scored a 144.3 at 31hz on an AC mic with no mods for SPL except a larger alt, that's it.

Oh, I was measurin my car while ago,
Can't fit 2 bl 12s with 3000w amp....
But I can fit 3 BL 10s off a 4000w amp!

This is what autocad said can fit back there in a tC--

Read following message

 

actually, hehe, having trouble fitting port, i'll post on here what AutoCAD's proper dimensions are for us.

 

you hit 144.3 at 31hz or with a box tuned at 31hz? and this was in the tc?