Well forget normal prices (Attempt to make a fiberglass box)
Thread Starter
Senior Member


SoCal tC Club
SL Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,504
From: California - La Palma
So I am looking for a JL authorized dealer
and I find one so I go in to ask for how much for a Slash 500/1 watt amp and a 10" W6 is and a custom box....
He got the final price and it was 1700...Forget that guy that is an outrage
So I went to super autobacs...the people I thought would cost a fortune....
Shoot I can get the amp and the speaker for 850 with the year warranties...
Now as for the box
I have plans on making a fiberglass box tomorrow to hold the w6 where elemental design has their slimline one...
I am aware that would not work
So I will make one that sticks out about 3-4 inches and it actually should work from the calculations...
So I shall keep you all posted to see if I can get a w6 in that little secret compartment...even with the bulge
Tell me if you guys have any opinions on the box that I haven't heard of yet
I hate audio dealers trying to rip me off
and I find one so I go in to ask for how much for a Slash 500/1 watt amp and a 10" W6 is and a custom box....
He got the final price and it was 1700...Forget that guy that is an outrage
So I went to super autobacs...the people I thought would cost a fortune....
Shoot I can get the amp and the speaker for 850 with the year warranties...
Now as for the box
I have plans on making a fiberglass box tomorrow to hold the w6 where elemental design has their slimline one...
I am aware that would not work
So I will make one that sticks out about 3-4 inches and it actually should work from the calculations...
So I shall keep you all posted to see if I can get a w6 in that little secret compartment...even with the bulge
Tell me if you guys have any opinions on the box that I haven't heard of yet
Hi-
It will be difficult to get the ~0.6+ CF sealed enclosure for a few reasons. 1st, should you decide to use the material thickness JL suggests, you're eating away valuable airspace in the hidden compartment. Obviously the W6 series are quite deep, so you'll have to come up higher than the factory floor. You could angle the baffle so the high side is near the tail light assembly/corner, and sloping towards the trunk floor.
I choose to remove the spare tire, and utilize the well for the bottom of my box. I made a frame about 35" wide, and 26" deep. The side that's closest to the rear seats is 5" and the rear is 6". The fiberglass bottom is about 3/8"+ thick. The top is 3/4" MDF. We've calculated the internal volume to be 2.6CF, good enough for the pair of 12"s. The Arc Audio logo was laser cut in 3/8" plexi glass. Everything was wrapped in grian and color matched vinyl. The factory tC trunk mat still fits over everything. There's another grill that's more durable and less "flashy" for regular daily driving - allowing me to throw groceries or luggage on top w/o worrying about the subs.
Most importantly, it sounds awesome, and I hit a 139.1dB at USACi World Finals!
Here are some pics:






Good luck! Let me know if there's anything I can help with - tips/tricks/advice!
It will be difficult to get the ~0.6+ CF sealed enclosure for a few reasons. 1st, should you decide to use the material thickness JL suggests, you're eating away valuable airspace in the hidden compartment. Obviously the W6 series are quite deep, so you'll have to come up higher than the factory floor. You could angle the baffle so the high side is near the tail light assembly/corner, and sloping towards the trunk floor.
I choose to remove the spare tire, and utilize the well for the bottom of my box. I made a frame about 35" wide, and 26" deep. The side that's closest to the rear seats is 5" and the rear is 6". The fiberglass bottom is about 3/8"+ thick. The top is 3/4" MDF. We've calculated the internal volume to be 2.6CF, good enough for the pair of 12"s. The Arc Audio logo was laser cut in 3/8" plexi glass. Everything was wrapped in grian and color matched vinyl. The factory tC trunk mat still fits over everything. There's another grill that's more durable and less "flashy" for regular daily driving - allowing me to throw groceries or luggage on top w/o worrying about the subs.
Most importantly, it sounds awesome, and I hit a 139.1dB at USACi World Finals!
Here are some pics:






Good luck! Let me know if there's anything I can help with - tips/tricks/advice!
It's not impossible, but you'll have some compromises to make. Are you willing to cut the carpet along the straight fold/seam that goes from the rear seat towards the tail light on the passenger side? If you are, then going above the factory floor level isn't such a big deal...
Where are you planning on mounting the amplifier?
Here's some tC's that were at IASCA World Finals - not exactly what I would suggest because they void the trunk of it's practicality, but you'll get some ideas:



If you want to keep a flush, factory look - especially with a 'normal' (re: not shallow) subwoofer, such as your W6, you're almost forced to use the spare tire well, or build it into the corner.
I've seen other members build these style boxes on here - and hopefully they'll chime in with how they did it. The obvious way is to build the floor piece out of 3/4" going around the perimeter of the trunk and spare tire - essentially where the factory foam is. Build another piece going vertical up the passenger side wall - forward of the tail light and behind the rear seat. Build a baffle for the subwoofer and use glue and some dowel rods to set the angle for the sub. Staple and stretch fleece over the ring to the back and side of the box and apply fiberglass resin. You'll end up with something like this:
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=149557
Then just the subwoofer enclosures like you see in the 1st pic above...you could mount the subs inverted like shown, or normally, with the basket/magnet inside the enclosure.
Where are you planning on mounting the amplifier?
Here's some tC's that were at IASCA World Finals - not exactly what I would suggest because they void the trunk of it's practicality, but you'll get some ideas:



If you want to keep a flush, factory look - especially with a 'normal' (re: not shallow) subwoofer, such as your W6, you're almost forced to use the spare tire well, or build it into the corner.
I've seen other members build these style boxes on here - and hopefully they'll chime in with how they did it. The obvious way is to build the floor piece out of 3/4" going around the perimeter of the trunk and spare tire - essentially where the factory foam is. Build another piece going vertical up the passenger side wall - forward of the tail light and behind the rear seat. Build a baffle for the subwoofer and use glue and some dowel rods to set the angle for the sub. Staple and stretch fleece over the ring to the back and side of the box and apply fiberglass resin. You'll end up with something like this:
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=149557
Then just the subwoofer enclosures like you see in the 1st pic above...you could mount the subs inverted like shown, or normally, with the basket/magnet inside the enclosure.
Thread Starter
Senior Member


SoCal tC Club
SL Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,504
From: California - La Palma
Hmmm those are all very very nice haha
Probably too nice to what I could build
Im a starving college student so I don't think i can go this extreme
I will somehow figure a way to not get rid of the tire and still have that w6 in that compartment somehow!!! grrr
haha
Probably too nice to what I could build
Im a starving college student so I don't think i can go this extreme
I will somehow figure a way to not get rid of the tire and still have that w6 in that compartment somehow!!! grrr
haha
Here's a crude list of items you should have to build a fiberglass box:
Jig saw
Drill & bits
Glue
Dowels
Staple gun & staples
Rubber gloves
Fiberglass resin (1qt could do a single sub box)
Cheap paint brushes to apply resin (3 X 2.5" should be OK - depending on how quickly you work)
Bondo
Sandpaper
Spray adhesive
Paint/Vinyl/Carpet - choose/finish to taste Carpet will hide the most flaws, paint shows them all...
Jig saw
Drill & bits
Glue
Dowels
Staple gun & staples
Rubber gloves
Fiberglass resin (1qt could do a single sub box)
Cheap paint brushes to apply resin (3 X 2.5" should be OK - depending on how quickly you work)
Bondo
Sandpaper
Spray adhesive
Paint/Vinyl/Carpet - choose/finish to taste Carpet will hide the most flaws, paint shows them all...
You should buy the Stealthbox for your tC.
If you have never worked with fiberglass before, you don't want a project like this to be your first. You run the risk of creating a permanent resale-killing cancerous tumor in the rear of your car!
If the retailer quoted you $1700 for a 500/1 a 10W6v2 and custom enclosure I don't see the major problem. Assuming you were going to install the amp and you already had all the parts the enclosure would come to $750. Working with fiberglass is very labor-intensive and the materials do not grow on trees ya know!
If you have never worked with fiberglass before, you don't want a project like this to be your first. You run the risk of creating a permanent resale-killing cancerous tumor in the rear of your car!
If the retailer quoted you $1700 for a 500/1 a 10W6v2 and custom enclosure I don't see the major problem. Assuming you were going to install the amp and you already had all the parts the enclosure would come to $750. Working with fiberglass is very labor-intensive and the materials do not grow on trees ya know!
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