2007 Scion tC spec Maintenance approaching 200K..
#1
2007 Scion tC spec Maintenance approaching 200K..
Looking for a some pointers on keeping this car on the road for another 200k... Right now I'm just over 180K and I do about 2k a month. I have been using Mobile 1 Synthetic oil
since the first oil change I actually passed on the first three complimentary oil changes from Toyota because I wanted to keep synthetic and do it myself.
I have done the normal stuff for the millage breaks/rotors spark plugs, engine belt, brake and power steering fluid change and finally all motor mounts...
Here is what I am getting ready to do in the next few weeks
1. Radiator flush
2. Engine gasket
3. Spark plug cables
4. Power steering pump (this went bad by my own fault, when changing the passenger side motor mount I some how cut the pressure hose and went a month with just topping off the fluid before I replaced the hose)
What concerns me right now is I changed my spark plugs and there was oil in the plug holes not on the electrode itself just the tube. What would need to be replaced to correct this. I generally do everything myself,
I don't like taking the car in because I don't trust any Mechanic shop. If I need to take it in I tell them exactly what I want done anything else needs to be inspected by me. Plus they charge way to much for something I can do on a Saturday morning.
All in all the car runs great if you didn't look at the odometer you would think the car had 50k on it. Anything else I should proactively look out for approaching 200k would be appreciated!
Thanks!!!
___
since the first oil change I actually passed on the first three complimentary oil changes from Toyota because I wanted to keep synthetic and do it myself.
I have done the normal stuff for the millage breaks/rotors spark plugs, engine belt, brake and power steering fluid change and finally all motor mounts...
Here is what I am getting ready to do in the next few weeks
1. Radiator flush
2. Engine gasket
3. Spark plug cables
4. Power steering pump (this went bad by my own fault, when changing the passenger side motor mount I some how cut the pressure hose and went a month with just topping off the fluid before I replaced the hose)
What concerns me right now is I changed my spark plugs and there was oil in the plug holes not on the electrode itself just the tube. What would need to be replaced to correct this. I generally do everything myself,
I don't like taking the car in because I don't trust any Mechanic shop. If I need to take it in I tell them exactly what I want done anything else needs to be inspected by me. Plus they charge way to much for something I can do on a Saturday morning.
All in all the car runs great if you didn't look at the odometer you would think the car had 50k on it. Anything else I should proactively look out for approaching 200k would be appreciated!
Thanks!!!
___
Last edited by MR_LUV; 07-21-2021 at 07:03 AM. Reason: Awarded 5 Yr Badge
#2
What concerns me right now is I changed my spark plugs and there was oil in the plug holes not on the electrode itself just the tube.
This sounds like the valve cover spark plug tube seals are bad. A good valve cover gasket should come with all 4 seals included.
How to video here -
#4
First, yes, your spark plug gastets are dried up, they don't last long. And yes, they come in a set with your valve cover gastet. They are cheap, $40 or something. Definitely should take 15 minutes, that's it.
Now, this "engine gasket", possibly your head gasket, isn't the best idea to up and change. If nothing has been wrong with your seal in the last 200K miles, then leave it. The reason these blow out is because of your head bolts loosening, allowing pressure to escape, not the gasket's fault. These are good gaskets that will last. All I recommend is tightening down your head bolts. After this many miles, you will be surprised how much they will turn down, and that will re-seal your gasket. The other reason is that it is never good to move around anything that has been violently running in the same pattern for 200K miles. Your valve train and your bottom end have all shifted slightly over the years and have a lot of worn spots that if tampered with can cause many issues. For instance, someone with an older motor that isn't quite healthy might change their rings for some brand new ones, well that is more than likely going to blow it up because now the motor has a much higher oil pressure and is not used to it and not healthy enough for it. It'll do this because it got used to having all its working parts work unhealthily together, which is actually more healthy than replacing something. And that gasket is probably fused to the block and will leave gunk and your new gasket will never seat right and if you get all the material off, much of it will have gotten into your water and you will have scrapped away aluminum off the block which won't allow a good seal at all, and your first time out at 5K RPM will blow that sucker. Motors aren't ones to toy with after that many miles. Stick to the engine accessories ie water pump, altenator, yada yada. You'll be alright.
Now, this "engine gasket", possibly your head gasket, isn't the best idea to up and change. If nothing has been wrong with your seal in the last 200K miles, then leave it. The reason these blow out is because of your head bolts loosening, allowing pressure to escape, not the gasket's fault. These are good gaskets that will last. All I recommend is tightening down your head bolts. After this many miles, you will be surprised how much they will turn down, and that will re-seal your gasket. The other reason is that it is never good to move around anything that has been violently running in the same pattern for 200K miles. Your valve train and your bottom end have all shifted slightly over the years and have a lot of worn spots that if tampered with can cause many issues. For instance, someone with an older motor that isn't quite healthy might change their rings for some brand new ones, well that is more than likely going to blow it up because now the motor has a much higher oil pressure and is not used to it and not healthy enough for it. It'll do this because it got used to having all its working parts work unhealthily together, which is actually more healthy than replacing something. And that gasket is probably fused to the block and will leave gunk and your new gasket will never seat right and if you get all the material off, much of it will have gotten into your water and you will have scrapped away aluminum off the block which won't allow a good seal at all, and your first time out at 5K RPM will blow that sucker. Motors aren't ones to toy with after that many miles. Stick to the engine accessories ie water pump, altenator, yada yada. You'll be alright.
#5
I changed the seal before I saw your post, glad I did the post kind of had me worried...Its been around 1,000 miles since the change and things are working great, no more leaks! I did wait about 300 miles before really pushing the engine (which for me was about 3 days) When I changed the seal the seal came right
up with the valve cover no need to peel off the block. I just carefully cleaned the edges. The seal was stiff though it broke when i handled it but nothing needed to be pealed from the valve cover. Guess using the Mobile 1 extended performance and STP oil treatment really works. Next week I will change my alternator.
Thanks for the info!
___
up with the valve cover no need to peel off the block. I just carefully cleaned the edges. The seal was stiff though it broke when i handled it but nothing needed to be pealed from the valve cover. Guess using the Mobile 1 extended performance and STP oil treatment really works. Next week I will change my alternator.
Thanks for the info!
___
Last edited by MR_LUV; 07-21-2021 at 07:05 AM. Reason: Awarded 5 Yr Badge
#7
Looking for a some pointers on keeping this car on the road for another 200k... Right now I'm just over 180K and I do about 2k a month... I have been using mobile one synthetic oil since the first oil change I actually passed on the first three complimentary oil changes from Toyota because I wanted to keep synthetic and do it my self.
I have done the normal stuff for the millage breaks/rotors spark plugs, engine belt, brake and power steering fluid change and finally all motor mounts...
Here is what I am getting ready to do in the next few weeks
1. Radiator flush
2. engine gasket
3. spark plug cables
4. power steering pump( this went bad by my own fault, when changing the passenger side motor mount I some how cut the pressure hose and went a month with just topping off the fluid before I replaced the hose)
What concerns me right now is I changed my spark plugs and there was oil in the plug holes not on the electrode itself just the tube. What would need to be replaced to correct this. I generally do everything myself, I don't like taking the car in because I don't trust any Mechanic shop. If i need to take it in I tell them exactly what I want done anything else needs to be inspected by me. Plus they charge way to much for something I can do on a Saturday morning.
All in all the car runs great if you didn't look at the odometer you would think the car had 50k on it. Anything else I should proactively look out for approaching 200k would be appreciated!
Thanks!!!
I have done the normal stuff for the millage breaks/rotors spark plugs, engine belt, brake and power steering fluid change and finally all motor mounts...
Here is what I am getting ready to do in the next few weeks
1. Radiator flush
2. engine gasket
3. spark plug cables
4. power steering pump( this went bad by my own fault, when changing the passenger side motor mount I some how cut the pressure hose and went a month with just topping off the fluid before I replaced the hose)
What concerns me right now is I changed my spark plugs and there was oil in the plug holes not on the electrode itself just the tube. What would need to be replaced to correct this. I generally do everything myself, I don't like taking the car in because I don't trust any Mechanic shop. If i need to take it in I tell them exactly what I want done anything else needs to be inspected by me. Plus they charge way to much for something I can do on a Saturday morning.
All in all the car runs great if you didn't look at the odometer you would think the car had 50k on it. Anything else I should proactively look out for approaching 200k would be appreciated!
Thanks!!!
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Last edited by MR_LUV; 07-21-2021 at 07:06 AM. Reason: Awarded 10 Yr Badge
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