Scooter4

Hello, I posted yesterday showing everyone my new tC. It is a manual transmission. Although I know how to drive it, I am still getting used to it so I kill it occasionally. A couple times after killing it, I noticed that the car doesn't start right back up. I have to turn the car completely off and wait a couple seconds before it starts. Is this normal? Thanks guys!

JahJosef

Are you flooding the engine(too much fuel)?

ETA: sorry, my first car had manual choke...still kinda new to today's fuel injected cars.

RoboCop

iTrader: (1)

You probably aren't pushing the clutch far enough in and I think applying a little on the brake helps too.

CSOCSO

iTrader: (1)

nope.. none of these.. all u have to do is put it in neutral and push / roll the car either way a feet or two. after that it will start!

Domo

iTrader: (3)

^but if he is able to start the car back up after a few seconds, than your solution must not be the best.

ecko04

That's ridiculous and makes no sense.

Chances are the clutch isn't fully engaged and even if it is sometimes after a stall it takes a crank or two to fire back up, it isn't always instantaneous. Rolling the car a foot or two does absolutely nothing, he isn't trying to pop start it, he's resuming from a stop.

Brunes

I'd agree with the clutch ideas. Push it down all the way...Then push a little more.

CSOCSO

iTrader: (1)

It wont crank........ the engine wont turn..

just try it next time.. it will start up right away after u rolled it a feet or two. I dont care what you think how it sounds. Or u can wait a few minutes and jump on the clutch like a monkey.. whatever

IM NOT talking about jump start. push it.. stop... and start with the key!

toeveryhour

iTrader: (3)

check your floormats (if you have any) i had the same problem at first trying to get used to it for the first day or so. turns out my aftermarket floormats i originally put didn't allow the clutch to go down all the way. i took out the mats and it was good to go. i think i bought scion oem mats the day after lol

ecko04

You have no clue what you're talking about. The OP said:

Now, listen to your solution:

You have to be high to stop, get out the car, push it, get back in it and start it. He could've accomplished what he's been doing the entire time, which is wait a few seconds then start it.

He didn't say the engine won't turn, obviously it is, it just isn't firing right back up. Pushing the car DOES NOT TURN THE ENGINE.

05_2tone

^^^i agree had the same problem with my camaro just turned out to be the all weather floormats

tcleazy-girl

If this is the case just after stalling the engine with the key in the run position and he tries to fire up the engine from that point, then it might be the immobilizer system not waking up. The immobilizer sequence begins with the key off ignition off condition. Then when ignition turns on, engine run time resets and immobilizer system wakes up. This is normal.

ecko04

I doubt it would be the immobilizer, the immobilizer is disabled as long as the correct key is in the ignition as it's sending a signal to the ECU. Even when the car stalls the key is still in the ignition and thus sending the signal. Just sounds like a clutch not being fully engaged issue than all these other off the wall comments.

tcleazy-girl

^wrong. I have one of my keys with the stem part of it missing. The head part of the key was attached to my key chain and the stem part fell off unknowingly. I had a cheap nontransponder key cut at walmart using my valet key as a cut pattern. So I been firing up my engine with the cheap key to insert in the key cylinder to release the steering lock and switch. But I have to keep the head of the broken key next to it to fire the engine. Once I remove the head of the broken key, the engine continues to run. I know this for a fact.

DJ08tC

does it honestly really matter, just turn the key to off real quick, push the clutch in ALL the way and restart it. If it takes a second then so be it, there is nothing wrong.

ecko04

Listen to what you're saying, you're basically saying i'm right. You were missing the part of the key that had the transponder so obviously it will release the steering lock, it is mechanical not electrical. When you try to start without the transponder, unless you have a spec tC, it will not start.

What's circled in red is the transponder chip.



When you placed the part that has the transponder by the ignition switch it fires up, meaning its sending the signal to the ignition switch which relays to the ECU that says, "hey, you can start now". Now, had your key been together and not DISMANTLED, the signal would be continuously sent to the ignition switch and relayed to the ECU which would NOT create a no-start situation.

Basically: IMMOBILIZER --> Electrical
STEERING WHEEL LOCK --> Mechanical

So if you have the physical key, you have the mechanical component. If you don't have the transponder chip, you're missing part of the electrical component. Without both, unless you have a spec tC, your tC will fail to start..."I know this for a fact" .

tcleazy-girl

But you were saying that the transponder signal from chip key is being received all the time when it only receives it upon start up. That my point.

And when you say the engine cranks but just doesn't fire up, then it isn't a clutch switch related problem because the that switch is part of the starter circuit.

ecko04

The transponder signal is being received all the time, when the key is in the ignition. The no-start condition is only when the signal is not being received, i.e. your transponder is not near the key cylinder.

Clearly, he is receiving the signal for the transponder, it isn't a component that works sometimes and other times it doesn't. In your case, the key was broken, this is not the case for him. The problem is not related to his key or it would render a non-start at all times, that's the point.

You're missing the point that the transponder has nothing to do with the unlocking of the steering wheel.

tcleazy-girl

ecko please reread my all my posts in here. especially the part where I say when I remove the head part of the key with the transponder chip away from the the ignition cylinder after firing up my engine and have the engine still running with the chip nowhere near the key cylinder but only the cheap nontransponder key in the ignition.

ecko04

I thought I made it clear the the transponder is only there to check the starting condition. If it is removed, after the car is started, the car isn't going to stall, that's an obvious safety concern. Once the car has successfully started, the series of checks for transponder matching is done, there is no need to check until the next start situation. I don't see how this, in any way, pertains to the OPs issue. His key isn't dismantled....