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I am so glad I logged on today. I have been searching for a solution to my dezod endlinks rattling. I am on my second set now and was about to buy a third. I know its probably too soon to tell, but how are they holding up?
Installed the end links Christmas day and since then replace the bushings with Energy Suspension and had to disconnect the endlinks, they were perfectly fine. Also the seller on eBay races a Toyota Supra and Honda S2000 and put these endlinks together for his cars.
eBay endlinks didn't work out after all, heard some clunking in the past week since the back of my car is gutted to complete a dynamat project. I had a extra set and put those on and the clunking is gone.!!
Contacted the ebay seller for some incite into why this is happening, evidently running OEM strut/spring combo with a super rigid swaybar (Progress) results in the swaybar carrying alot of the weight in corners rather then the OEM strut/spring.
Add an additional washer between the sway bar and endlink Then put a rubber washer(about the thickness of a nickel or quarter) between the washer(one next to ball joint) and the new washer you put in.
Endlink > washer > rubber washer > washer > Sway bar > Nut.
Make sure the inner diameter of all the washers is the same.
Report back what happens.
Also, some time stuff just needs to be ____ed with. Like the eBay seller said, sway bar is all about load and ____. I wouldn't be surprised if after you put your car back together and put the first set of Supra end links back on, they work fine.
Endlink > washer > rubber washer > washer > Sway bar > Nut.
Make sure the inner diameter of all the washers is the same.
Report back what happens.
Also, some time stuff just needs to be ____ed with. Like the eBay seller said, sway bar is all about load and ____. I wouldn't be surprised if after you put your car back together and put the first set of Supra end links back on, they work fine.
Follow the directions the seller posted on eBay. New bushings will help the swaybar engage faster, but the loading is the most important part. You don't want your swaybar to carry the load, but rather you spring/strut or Coils. So adjusting is critical. But then again the spring rate and swaybar should be thought of together in terms of compatibility, you can't run weak springs with the swaybar in the stiffest position.
Useful Info here about suspensions: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCKa...DXcdeRtq4Fbukw
Installation:
Jack up rear of car (secure rear wheels with wheel chocks)
Remove both rear wheels
Remove the OE end links from both drivers and passengers side.
Loosen the jam nuts on your new end links and adjust them to the exact same length as your OE end links. Since you can thread both ends out be sure to leave at least 1/4” of thread engaged on each ball joint.
Once the length is a match, re-tighten the jam nuts.
Install in place of the original end links in the following order::
Ball joint > zinc coated washer > sway bar > zinc plated nylock nut
Bolt wheels back on and lower car
Adjustment and setting sway bar pre-load:
In order to properly set pre-load with adjustable end-links this process MUST be performed with all 4 wheels on the ground. This means you will need to be able to access the underside of the car during the process without using a jack. This may mean you need access to ramps. If you are not comfortable with this, you should let an alignment professional perform this process.
With the car at rest disconnect one end of one end link. This will remove any torsional load on the sway bar.
Loosen the jam nuts and adjust the end link until it can be re-connected without moving the sway bar from its resting position.
Useful Info here about suspensions: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCKa...DXcdeRtq4Fbukw
Installation:
Jack up rear of car (secure rear wheels with wheel chocks)
Remove both rear wheels
Remove the OE end links from both drivers and passengers side.
Loosen the jam nuts on your new end links and adjust them to the exact same length as your OE end links. Since you can thread both ends out be sure to leave at least 1/4” of thread engaged on each ball joint.
Once the length is a match, re-tighten the jam nuts.
Install in place of the original end links in the following order::
Ball joint > zinc coated washer > sway bar > zinc plated nylock nut
Bolt wheels back on and lower car
Adjustment and setting sway bar pre-load:
In order to properly set pre-load with adjustable end-links this process MUST be performed with all 4 wheels on the ground. This means you will need to be able to access the underside of the car during the process without using a jack. This may mean you need access to ramps. If you are not comfortable with this, you should let an alignment professional perform this process.
With the car at rest disconnect one end of one end link. This will remove any torsional load on the sway bar.
Loosen the jam nuts and adjust the end link until it can be re-connected without moving the sway bar from its resting position.
Add an additional washer between the sway bar and endlink Then put a rubber washer(about the thickness of a nickel or quarter) between the washer(one next to ball joint) and the new washer you put in.
Endlink > washer > rubber washer > washer > Sway bar > Nut.
Make sure the inner diameter of all the washers is the same.
Report back what happens.
Also, some time stuff just needs to be ____ed with. Like the eBay seller said, sway bar is all about load and ____. I wouldn't be surprised if after you put your car back together and put the first set of Supra end links back on, they work fine.
Endlink > washer > rubber washer > washer > Sway bar > Nut.
Make sure the inner diameter of all the washers is the same.
Report back what happens.
Also, some time stuff just needs to be ____ed with. Like the eBay seller said, sway bar is all about load and ____. I wouldn't be surprised if after you put your car back together and put the first set of Supra end links back on, they work fine.
I'm debating trying going back to Progress endlinks and bushings to see what happens. Or swapping fully back to the OEM sway bar setup.
My setup was fine on eibach springs and i only started getting noise when i lowered it another inch or so on coils. So i'm somewhat on a goose chase between something with the coils and the swaybar. Its been an annoying few weeks.
This worked for a few days but ultimately did nothing. It seems like every time i play with the sway bar, endlinks or bushings. It fixes the problem for a little bit but it comes back.
I have Energy suspension bushings and it did nothing for more than a few days.
I'm debating trying going back to Progress endlinks and bushings to see what happens. Or swapping fully back to the OEM sway bar setup.
My setup was fine on eibach springs and i only started getting noise when i lowered it another inch or so on coils. So i'm somewhat on a goose chase between something with the coils and the swaybar. Its been an annoying few weeks.
I have Energy suspension bushings and it did nothing for more than a few days.
I'm debating trying going back to Progress endlinks and bushings to see what happens. Or swapping fully back to the OEM sway bar setup.
My setup was fine on eibach springs and i only started getting noise when i lowered it another inch or so on coils. So i'm somewhat on a goose chase between something with the coils and the swaybar. Its been an annoying few weeks.





