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Brake Trouble

Old Aug 9, 2009 | 11:21 PM
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Default Brake Trouble

ok so i just replaced the stock brakes with some Porterfield ones...
and now when i go to brake, the pedal literally goes down to the floor before the cars slows down...
ive been searching and most have said to bleed the lines...
i havent touched the lines and my fluids look fine...
anyone have any ideas? im about to put the stocks back on and see if that makes a diff.
Old Aug 9, 2009 | 11:28 PM
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When I changed my brakes, after finishing I pumped them a few times. You will feel the peddle getting stiffer.

It was a while ago that I did them so my memory is a little vague.
Old Aug 9, 2009 | 11:29 PM
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Did you push the pin back down when you installed the new brakes? I think it might be impossible to not do this since I dont think you can tighten the caliper but it's just an idea. Other than that take a look at your brake fluid and make sure it is to the full line and then if those two things check out I guess you might have to bleed the lines.
Old Aug 10, 2009 | 12:03 AM
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which pin? the piston??
i followed the bed in procedure and its still the same...
Old Aug 10, 2009 | 12:10 AM
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you have to bleed the lines...
Old Aug 10, 2009 | 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by mdaaboul313
you have to bleed the lines...
but why??
i didnt disconnect or even touch the lines for that matter...
i might as well order some SS lines if i have to bleed them...
Old Aug 10, 2009 | 12:32 AM
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u shouldn't need to bleed the line. I didn't when i install new pads.
Old Aug 10, 2009 | 01:28 AM
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Ok so after letting the brakes cool for a while I checked them.
My passenger rotor is all loose. I can move it with my hand. And one of the pads isn't engaging I guess because its so loose.
Is there a bolt that keeps the rotor in place somewhere...
Old Aug 10, 2009 | 02:24 AM
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Check the caliper bolts to make they didnt come loose
Old Aug 10, 2009 | 02:34 AM
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just changing pads, you shouldnt have to bleed anything. i havent bled the lines in my car since i bought it 3 years ago, and ive gone through maybe... 3 sets of pads.

anyway, check anything you may have taken apart. also check the lines to see if anything is out of place or loose. the caliper bolts are important, of course. lines. any connections made.

seeing your last post, if the rotor is loose, that means the piston never came out to press the pads together. what tool did you use to clamp the piston back into the caliper? and where did it anchor? as in..one side of the c-clamp went into the piston.. and the other side? could it have crushed something?

if i were you, id open up that caliper again, step on the brake, and see if the piston comes out. if not, something is wrong bringing the fluid to the right place.

once its fixed, please remember one thing about porterfield brakes: they are carbon kevlar, which means they work better with heat/extreme temperatures. this also implies they are not the best when cold. their initial bite, from my experience, is not great. especially first thing in a winter morning. some of my friends have used them too, and would disagree with me saying they're like stock when cold. maybe im just more picky about it. anyway, just an FYI!

Last edited by hunterUnknown; Aug 10, 2009 at 02:53 AM.
Old Aug 10, 2009 | 04:24 AM
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piston comes out. with a loud whoosh!
i used a c-clamp....one side inside the piston and the other on the other side of the caliper. against bare metal..
i can push the piston in easily though..with my own hands. when the brake is pushed..the rotor stays solid. but as soon as the brake is let off....that rotor is loose as hell again
Old Aug 10, 2009 | 04:58 AM
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nvm guys. i figured out the problem....
one of the pads wasnt engaging becuz it was stuck on part of the caliper...
i guess i installed it incorrectly..
but all is well know..
thanks everyone for you help!
Old Aug 10, 2009 | 05:10 AM
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glad everything work out
Old Aug 10, 2009 | 09:42 AM
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good to hear!

also, not sure if you wanna do a bed-in or not, even though they're used pads. just an idea.
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