To be honest, I didn't do any research on either the DG bar or the collars. I find that the tc has a good balance with stock sway bars, and most of the issues it suffers from, is from body twisting and flex when hard cornering. From my experiences with past cars, you can work with the stock bar by upgraded bushings and end links to get the results you're looking for. The only time I can say upgrading sway bars is a good idea is if it's a adjustable front/rear combo and dedicated track car. Or it has too much body roll (which the tc doesn't more so when lowered properly), or lacking a rear swaybar.

I am pretty sure the tc's corner issue (heavy cornering) can be solved with proper bracing of the frame rails, and interior hatch area. However, this is all just my opinion and what I find to be a suitable suspension set up for my driving type, and road types.

 

There is a definite improvement with the bar. I love the handling but I hate the noise. I believe you can have this bar without the clunking and popping. I never had this issue in the beginning. Sigh...these endlinks are crap.

 

Hmm, interesting. In my experience I've found it to be different. The stock tC seemed to have a lot of understeer with the stock bars when pushed hard in auto-x (inherent problem with most FWD cars). I've found that the DG bar alleviates this issue pretty well (as the front to rear swaybar stiffness ratio has a pretty big influence on whether this car oversteers/understeers). Since it made such a massive difference, I think the rear sway on the tC is one of the best mods you can do for handling.

I agree with you with driving up to 9/10 or 10/10s, where I feel like the sways make the biggest difference.

 

The tC does have some noticeable undsteer on a auto-x track, thats for sure. A local here happened to run his best time after he snapped his link. (removed the other, to not have a sway bar tied in the front) However, in more open track environments (road course or good twisty back roads if you have them) I find the tC will over steer and twist under a good cornering load.

I do most of my driving on more open and faster turns than auto-x can give, (mid-ohio and friendly kentucky back roads) so that's where the sway bar comes in for me.

This all just shows how funky suspension can be. What works for one may not work for another style. What works on a auto-x track may not convert to a more open higher speed track. I love cars. lol

 

Well I just ordered another set of endlinks last night. So when they come in I will let you guys know what I find out.

 

I have a friend that races a polaris rzr and he told me that heim joints tend to go bad after a while. I'm assuming since the sway bar is stiffer than stock therefore under more stress not only from cornering but also uneven roads that the endlinks will go bad after some time. They will definitely go out quicker if the endlinks aren't properly adjusted because they will be under constant stress.

 

I spoke with Andrew last week and he told me the new endlinks worked very briefly but ended up bending so hes installed the stock endlinks and all is quite for now.

Let us know soon!

 

The swaybar end link system on the tc is junk to begin with. Too much to go wrong, they should of done them the same way the xb1's/xa's are done. Just a simple bolt through control arm with bushings. Easy to upgrade, and last a lot longer than ball joint style even under normal driving.

But the amount of body flex in the rear doesn't help the end links at all. More so if you're pushing harder. If anyone wants to try a theory I have with aftermarket end links, go for it. Weld them bastards solid. So that they can't articulate and wear out. install, tack weld, uninstall, weld solid, reinstall.

 

how long do you think these endlinks are suppose to last?

 

Are you asking me?

 

I was asking anyone lol.

 

Well here is your update. I ordered the endlinks on Monday and they arrived on Thursday. I cant stress how imperative it is to have ramps for your car. You CANNOT jack up the car. I noticed when I took out the endlinks that they were difficult to get out. Also the new endlinks use a 8mm hex head instead of a 15mm wrench. So if you plan on doing them you should get a set that has a long handle to use for leverage when you torque them down. Also get yourself a 3/8 hex head in the same size.

I am lowered on H&R coil-overs so in order to get the sway bar parallel with the ground I had to back out the heim joints pretty far. Make sure that you have plenty thread on both sides on the threaded rod so you don't end up backing one out too far. Also make sure that you use the washer on both sides of the heim joints and that they are not touching the hex head or the sway bar itself.

Its pretty tricky to torque them down with the hex head, but this is what I did. On the bottoms use a really long 8mm hex hold it in place. Then grab a 3/8 torque wrench with a deep socket 15 on and torque them down. I think it was 36 ft. pounds but I could be wrong. Then for the top grab a 15mm open box wrench and then your 3/8 8mm hex and attach that to your torque wrench. If you need to re-torque your bushings those are to 25 pounds. Again I could be wrong, just going from memory right now.

Last bit of advice is to make sure the bar is parallel with the ground and that the bolts are as horizontal as possible. I spent a good two hours doing this to make sure it was perfect. I then took it out for a small ride around the neighborhood and didn't hear any noise. This morning I took it out for a more aggressive ride to work and loved it. I barely heard any noise coming from these endlinks. But you MUST have them on ramps in order to install these or your noise will come back for sure. I will keep you guys updated if I start hearing the noise again, but I am pretty confident in these right now.

 

Dezod endlinks right? And are you using Dan Gardners 25mm sway? I probably could answer by roaming through the thread but I have to go to work. Btw thanks for the update!

 

http://www.dezod.com/files/Scion%20T...%20Endlink.pdf

Here's a link to the instructions from the Dezod website. I'm pretty sure the reason my endlinks started knocking is because they were not properly adjusted by the previous owner.

 

Yes Domo, both dezod endlinks and dan garnder sway bar. The only thing that surprised me was how long the endlinks had to be to make the bar as parallel as possible. But noise is very minimul and so far I am pretty happy with the outcome.

 

Good to hear. I'm finding it a bit hard to separate the spacers that came with the original endlinks. Any who, have you had any success with silencing the squeaking from the rubber mounts? Nothing I have tried was long lived.

 

What spacers are you referring to? And for the rubber mounts I actually use mobile 1 synthetic grease.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...ic_Grease.aspx

 

White lithium grease to keep the rubber from making noise .

As far as clunking....if you are getting a lot of it, its because you did the install incorrectly, a little is normal, but if it is driving you nuts cause you hear it over a stereo...yeah go back and read the dezod instructions .

 

This grease does the job? I experimented with many things, nothing has worked for a long period. The spacers i am referring to are the ones that came with the dg endlinks. Not really sure how else to describe them. They are like thicker washers but not really...haha. There should be four of them, two on each side. Or maybe eight, i dont quite remember right now but i know Dezod endlinks dont come with any.

All the adjustment nuts are seized on my endlinks.

 

the grease will help, won't do the full job. I used to run this bar and although by far the best lubricant for the bar (i always keep a tube of white lithium on hand ), it doesn't solve the "clunking" issue. All the grease does it make the bar run quieter (less squeaking).

I assume most people installed these bars in their own garages..? perhaps the clunking has to do with the bar being installed properly, such as not being leveled?