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DIY: Brake Pads, Rotors, Caliper Painting, and Bleeding

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Old 01-02-2008 | 07:46 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by frame
wow great write up.
x2
Old 01-03-2008 | 12:01 AM
  #62  
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now give us a write up on how to change the brake line and i'll be all set. I'm assuming this write up for removing the rear pads and rotors will work the same with the front with the exception of a few things.
Old 01-08-2008 | 06:04 PM
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what size c-clamp is that. I have the same rotors and i am also replacing my pads as well but i dont have a c-clamp. Is it really needed or can just muscle the pad into position without compressing the piston.
Old 01-10-2008 | 10:00 PM
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Default Rotors Question: To turn or not to turn?

Thanks for the write-up. There maybe some holes in the write up but from my experience in changing brakes in the past, nothing life threatening. Just excercise patience and common sense.

One question though... do the rotors need to be turned or not? Or are these the type of rotors that cannot be turned?

Thanks again.
Old 02-20-2008 | 12:34 AM
  #65  
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Awwright! Thanks for the nice write up! I can confidently upgrade my brakes by myself now.
Old 02-20-2008 | 02:35 AM
  #66  
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Changed mine a month ago.. piece of cake thanks to the write up. Thank you. Yeah, no turning of the rotars needed. I was surprised though, i had 58k on the odo, and the front pads had about 20% left. More surprising, the rears had at least 50% of the pad left. I changed them anyway since I already bought the pads.

The TC is very front brake biased. About 80% of my driving is freeway with a lot of stop and go in LA traffic and I'm light on the brakes. Overall, it takes a while to go through these brakes.
Old 03-18-2008 | 02:53 AM
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sweet, so now how about some pics an info on how to put new pads in the drum brakes please
Old 05-07-2008 | 04:57 AM
  #68  
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awsome write up, used as a guide for my stoptech stage 2 today, have a question after the install i noticed that my caliper is rubbing my rotor on the rear brake. what could cause this? this isnt my first brake install so i am not sure what it could be and it is put back together correctly any info would be appreciated.
Old 05-07-2008 | 05:03 PM
  #69  
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n/m found it rotor was rubbing the ebrake sheild some how so i bent it a little and fixed it
Old 05-10-2008 | 11:29 PM
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Nice info!


Thx




John
Old 08-10-2008 | 07:27 PM
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dang i should have read this before attempting this on my own, i had the driver side wheels off and calipers off and the rotors would not come off, thanks for the screw info to pop them off, my common sense didnt kick in when i saw 2 holes there and didnt realize what they actually did, next day off D/S rotors oh yeah! there needs to be revised copy of this and throw it up in the tech info
Old 08-18-2008 | 04:38 PM
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the bolts to take off the rotors can be found on your upper radiator brackets (12mm) if you cant find a set in a hardware store, just a tip it works perfectly to pop off the rotors
Old 09-20-2008 | 01:38 AM
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i know this thread is old but just wanted to thank you guys that took time to post things like this. I just painted my calipers on my mustang and because of this forum i remembered how to do it.
Old 10-31-2008 | 02:25 AM
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OK great writeup and I did my rear brakes today.

One question though. In one of your pics you show part of the caliper attached to the rotor with the pad and the other part swung up ( you were reinstalling them).

When I put everything back together I put the pads in the caliper and closed the caliper and squezzed it on the rotor. Does it matter one way or the other?

Did that make sense? lol
Old 10-31-2008 | 03:57 AM
  #75  
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i just installed front and rear today.
Great DIY.
i don't understand what you switch "one way or the other"
Old 11-02-2008 | 07:39 PM
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ok all 4 corners are done. I have a couple of questions though for you brake experts.


1) I can hear a light scraping sound like the pads are brushing against the rotor in the rear. Is this normal for a small time since I resurfaced the rotors and placed new pads. For instance will this go away with a bit of break in time? I have double checked everything but still sound persists. Not loud, just subtle like I can hear it if I am next to a building I can hear the reverb.

2) I am feeling a mild "pulsing" in the front pedal. Rotors were resurfaced and new pads there as well. When I turn the wheels up on jack stands I can hear slight contact with the rotor and pad. Double checked everything and drove again but still feel pulsing. Not like the rapid shaking when you are in dire need of a break job but more of a dull fluctuation of the brake pedal.

Thoughts anyone?
Old 02-13-2009 | 05:26 PM
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will def use this for new install
Old 02-14-2009 | 01:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Andrew1782
ok all 4 corners are done. I have a couple of questions though for you brake experts.


1) I can hear a light scraping sound like the pads are brushing against the rotor in the rear. Is this normal for a small time since I resurfaced the rotors and placed new pads. For instance will this go away with a bit of break in time? I have double checked everything but still sound persists. Not loud, just subtle like I can hear it if I am next to a building I can hear the reverb.

2) I am feeling a mild "pulsing" in the front pedal. Rotors were resurfaced and new pads there as well. When I turn the wheels up on jack stands I can hear slight contact with the rotor and pad. Double checked everything and drove again but still feel pulsing. Not like the rapid shaking when you are in dire need of a break job but more of a dull fluctuation of the brake pedal.

Thoughts anyone?
Forgot to update, problem fixed...shop recturned rotors and all nice and smooth now!
Old 03-10-2009 | 01:55 AM
  #79  
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BUMP!

Any other solutions to getting the rear rotor off? Is there anything else holding on the D/S rear? P/S rear came off easy w/ the bolt but COULD NOT get the D/S off for the life of me.
Old 03-11-2009 | 06:43 PM
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Bump for any suggestions


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