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DIY: Brake Pads, Rotors, Caliper Painting, and Bleeding

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Old 03-11-2009, 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by trdscion
BUMP!

Any other solutions to getting the rear rotor off? Is there anything else holding on the D/S rear? P/S rear came off easy w/ the bolt but COULD NOT get the D/S off for the life of me.
what is the D/S?
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Old 03-12-2009, 08:31 PM
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P/S - passenger side
D/S - driver side
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Old 03-13-2009, 12:36 AM
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oh alright. Well whack it with a RUBBER mallet or something. I changed mine at 63k and the bolt popped them all right off.
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Old 03-16-2009, 07:34 PM
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anyone else have like a rubbing sound once put on drilled/slotted rotors? installed my back ones yesterday (cuz they sent me wrong fronts) and its annoying the hell outta me. please dont tell me this lasts forever
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Old 03-17-2009, 12:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Andrew1782
oh alright. Well whack it with a RUBBER mallet or something. I changed mine at 63k and the bolt popped them all right off.
Picked up a new 2lb rubber mallet to give it a shot, damn thing is stubborn. Thanks
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Old 03-17-2009, 12:36 AM
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Originally Posted by GQQSE13
anyone else have like a rubbing sound once put on drilled/slotted rotors? installed my back ones yesterday (cuz they sent me wrong fronts) and its annoying the hell outta me. please dont tell me this lasts forever
Might want to check your dust covers and make sure they're not rubbing on the rotors and that everything is properly torqued. Good luck.
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Old 05-16-2009, 03:30 AM
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This is definitely a great write-up! I'm a little concerned though in regards to the torque specs listed in the original write-up. The following are the Toyota specs per the FSM. Just like with wheels, proper torque specs are vital to performance and especially safety.

FRONT:

INSTALL FRONT DISC BRAKE CYLINDER MOUNTING
Install the cylinder mounting with the 2 bolts.
Torque: 79 ft lb

INSTALL DISC BRAKE CYLINDER ASSEMBLY
Install the front disc brake cylinder assembly with the 2 bolts.
Torque: 25 ft lb

REAR:

INSTALL REAR DISC BRAKE CYLINDER MOUNTING
Install the cylinder mounting with the 2 bolts.
Torque: 34 ft lb

INSTALL REAR DISC BRAKE CYLINDER SLIDE PIN
Using a socket hexagon wrench (8 mm), install the cylinder
slide pin (upper) to the cylinder mounting.
Torque: 29 ft lb

<INSTALL DISC BRAKE CYLINDER ASSEMBLY REAR>

INSTALL REAR DISC BRAKE CYLINDER SLIDE PIN
Install the cylinder slide pin (lower).
Torque: 25 ft lb

I would highly recommend double checking your torque specs and if time allows, perusing the web for the scion service manuals. I'm not suggesting you break copyright laws by downloading it, but there is some vital info contained in it, especially relating to brake service procedures and proper e-brake adjustment.
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Old 04-04-2010, 12:13 PM
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Red face Brake pad clips

Loved your thread. Just one question (it a kind of dumb question) I just put on new brake pads on my girlfriends 07 scion tc. I just pulled out the old pads and put in the new ones with out putting the clip from the old pad on the new ones. What is the clip for? and do I need the clips in there?

Thanks
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Old 10-14-2011, 03:47 PM
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This is Old Sorry. I read this thread and i did not see anything about my question. I replaced my rear rotors no problem at all. But when i went to replace the front i couldn't get the rotors off. The rears just pop right out but on the front it looks like there is a Black Torque Bolt it looks like a star kinda and its in the middle of the rotor. To me it looks like you have to take that bolt off of the front rotors to remove them. Am i correct or am i missing something? If i am Correct what is the name of the tool i need to get that bolt off.
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Old 10-14-2011, 08:02 PM
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No sure what bolt you're talking about but it really doesn't matter bc there aren't any bolts holding the caliper onto the hub. The reason you can't get them off is because they're rusted onto the hub. Bang a rubber mallet on the hub of the rotor to try and break the rust loose. It works for some people.

If that doesn't work, you see those two empty threaded holes in the hub of the rotor? You can screw a bolt into those holes and break the rotor loose. Pop your hood and one of those bolts where the radiator mounts to the top of the frame is the exact same size and you can use it for those holes in the rotor. Can't get more specific because I always forget which one it is exactly. I do know its a size 12mm. Pull a few of them and try. There's a picture on the first page of this thread of the guy doing this. Only difference is the pic if of the rear rotor and he's not using the bolt from the radiator bracket.

Lemme know if that helps.
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Old 10-15-2011, 03:06 AM
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That makes me feel better knowing that im not going to rip anything off haha. And I know the little holes your talking about I'll try that if the mallet doesn't work. I was talking about the black torque bolt that is in the middle of the hub/rotor I'm not sure if you understand
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Old 03-09-2012, 07:11 PM
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Okay so nobody has said anything here in a while, but I replaced my rotors, pads, and calipers following this guide, and bled the brakes and everything worked out perfectly. Been driving around braking the the brakes. Just ask the dealership how much it would cost to change all 4 rotors, all pads, and 2 front calipers and you will see what they tell you.
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Old 03-09-2012, 09:03 PM
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First of all who goes to the stealership to do such easy work its like asking them to change my oil lol...
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Old 03-10-2012, 01:51 AM
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Originally Posted by corsair28
Okay so nobody has said anything here in a while, but I replaced my rotors, pads, and calipers following this guide, and bled the brakes and everything worked out perfectly. Been driving around braking the the brakes. Just ask the dealership how much it would cost to change all 4 rotors, all pads, and 2 front calipers and you will see what they tell you.

^^ about the dealer.. I did ask what they would charge to supply/install pads and rotors.. almost $800! with the calipers? I bet it's over $1000! that's insane!

oh and glad you were able to do all the work yourself and save that kind of money and get the job done the right way.. compared to the dealer who some of them don't know how to tighten a lugnut (no use of a torque wrench just an air wrench..) I remember watching through the window where this mechanic just tightened everything as tight as he could with an air wrench. I was like "wow, glad that's not mine!" For those of you who don't know (reading this), tightening lug nuts with an air wrench is NOT a good thing, you use a torque wrench because if you tighten lug nuts too much, it will warp/bend the rotor behind it! they you get a nice vibration. not nice.
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Old 03-12-2012, 06:47 AM
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Thats awesome I think I'm going to put some new rotors on my car now
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Old 11-17-2012, 12:50 AM
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Originally Posted by dragonplayboy
OK, so now you've done pads, that was easy huh? wanna put in some snazzy looking rotors? it's just as easy! after removing the pads, undo the two 14mm bolts in the back that hold the pad retaining part of the caliper assembly over the rotor. these were a _____ to take a pic of so I'll do my best here, just stick your head behind it, they're pretty obvious.

here's the back of the assembly (best I could do, sorry!)


off comes the whole caliper assembly. make sure to suspend it from the spring (well out of your way) with a coat hanger or something, I tied it up there with some wire. DO NOT LET THE CALIPER HANG BY THE BRAKE LINE, THIS=BAD!!!

to remove the rotor, which in my case was well rusted on to the point a hammer wasn't getting that bastard off, take your bolt (I believe it's a 10mm or 12mm, I don't know the pitch, someone please feel free to add that in) and screw it in one of the little holes at a time, using a socket wrench or impact wrench. this will pop it away from the hub and it comes right off!





The bolts to screw in the holes to pop the rotor off I found were M8-1.25x35mm. It worked perfectly. Thanks for the help!
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