front camber bolts and swaybars
Hello, i had a question about front alignment, i have a set of camber bolts already install in the car, my question is would i be able to get better alignment if i used another set of bolts, meaning taking out the all 4 stock bolts replacing them with camber alignment bolt from eibach? Also does any one knows if there is any other part to help with front alignment other then bolts for the front and where to get them? And one more thing i recently bought a set of sway bars and will be intalling this weekend i been looking for instructions or a video of how to remove and intall the front swaybar.
Thanks
Thanks
Hello, i had a question about front alignment, i have a set of camber bolts already install in the car, my question is would i be able to get better alignment if i used another set of bolts, meaning taking out the all 4 stock bolts replacing them with camber alignment bolt from eibach? Also does any one knows if there is any other part to help with front alignment other then bolts for the front and where to get them? And one more thing i recently bought a set of sway bars and will be intalling this weekend i been looking for instructions or a video of how to remove and intall the front swaybar.
Thanks
Thanks
What do you mean by a "better" alignment? You can get up to -2 degrees camber with one camber bolt, and that's already decently aggressive to run on the street. Also, I wouldn't feel too comfortable having 2 camber bolts hold the strut up. I'd feel more comfortable with one camber bolt and one regular bolt.
From what I hear the front sway is a PITA without a lift. I'm not sure if there's a DIY, but you have to drop the front crossmember which is a time-consuming process.
I dont see why you would want any more camber than -2/+2 with the bolts. Some coilovers have camber plates, but the bolts have a greater range of adjustability. As for the front sway bar, I have read that it is an extreme pain to install.
Get it aligned then worry about if you need more adjustment. Unless you're going for that "mad tyte" camber look, you won't need to worry. I just hope you're not on stock suspension trying to max out camber adjustment.
thanks for the info, i had the car aligned before, i just wanted to ask because i have an extra set of camber bolts, ans i just got a set of wheels, swaybars and strut bar i also have the rear control arms and i would like to make these tires last longer then the others
For street driving, don't go more than -2deg camber
Front swaybar upgrade is unnecessary. I believe the DG Spec racer uses the stocker. I don't use one on my autocross car.
For function, use the biggest rear sway bar. That was the first, and most important upgrade on my car. I use a Hotchkis Sport rear sway on full stiff. Use that or DG Spec's bar. dG's bar comes with better end links, I believe.
Front swaybar upgrade is unnecessary. I believe the DG Spec racer uses the stocker. I don't use one on my autocross car.
For function, use the biggest rear sway bar. That was the first, and most important upgrade on my car. I use a Hotchkis Sport rear sway on full stiff. Use that or DG Spec's bar. dG's bar comes with better end links, I believe.
thanks for the info, i had the car aligned before, i just wanted to ask because i have an extra set of camber bolts, ans i just got a set of wheels, swaybars and strut bar i also have the rear control arms and i would like to make these tires last longer then the others
I don't know if it's been said, but have a qualified alignment done.
When you lower a tC, the front camber barely changes due to strut suspension, BUT the rear WILL because it's multilink. If it's lowered, have them back off the rear camber. It should never be more than the front for proper function.
While you're getting your alignment, you could go one step further and have them set your front tow to zero. That, in combination with about -2 deg camber will give you excellent street able handling that won't eat your tires.
When you lower a tC, the front camber barely changes due to strut suspension, BUT the rear WILL because it's multilink. If it's lowered, have them back off the rear camber. It should never be more than the front for proper function.
While you're getting your alignment, you could go one step further and have them set your front tow to zero. That, in combination with about -2 deg camber will give you excellent street able handling that won't eat your tires.
lol at camber bolts "have a greater range of adjustability" than camber plates
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