Negative Camber
I run -2.0 front and -1.2 rear. The rear is just with the factory adjustments. To get the adjustment in the front all I did was install the smallest diameter factory 'crash' bolt (camber bolt) for the top and bottom holes on the lower strut mount.
http://www.trdsparks.com/install/tCFWheelAlignment.pdf
The factory camber bolt part numbers can be found there, I'm using the 3-dot bolts (90105-17011), 2 on each side. It was only about $30-$40 for the bolts. There are also aftermarket bolts that work in a similar fashion for a similar price. The bolt approach is much cheaper than a camber plate.
I'm quite pleased with how the car handles now. I have the toe set to 0 in the front so the tires shouldn't see too much abuse.
If you are interested, rear wheel alignment info can be found here:
http://www.trdsparks.com/install/tCRWheelAlignment.pdf
Last edited by Rexpelagi; Aug 9, 2009 at 03:29 AM.
What exactly are you trying to do by increasing negative camber? Depending on your toe settings you can chew up your tires fairly quickly. If you are looking to improve handling then by all means.
I run -2.0 front and -1.2 rear. The rear is just with the factory adjustments. To get the adjustment in the front all I did was install the smallest diameter factory 'crash' bolt (camber bolt) for the top and bottom holes on the lower strut mount.
http://www.trdsparks.com/install/tCFWheelAlignment.pdf
The factory camber bolt part numbers can be found there, I'm using the 3-dot bolts (90105-17011), 2 on each side. It was only about $30-$40 for the bolts. There are also aftermarket bolts that work in a similar fashion for a similar price. The bolt approach is much cheaper than a camber plate.
I'm quite pleased with how the car handles now. I have the toe set to 0 in the front so the tires shouldn't see too much abuse.
If you are interested, rear wheel alignment info can be found here:
http://www.trdsparks.com/install/tCRWheelAlignment.pdf
I run -2.0 front and -1.2 rear. The rear is just with the factory adjustments. To get the adjustment in the front all I did was install the smallest diameter factory 'crash' bolt (camber bolt) for the top and bottom holes on the lower strut mount.
http://www.trdsparks.com/install/tCFWheelAlignment.pdf
The factory camber bolt part numbers can be found there, I'm using the 3-dot bolts (90105-17011), 2 on each side. It was only about $30-$40 for the bolts. There are also aftermarket bolts that work in a similar fashion for a similar price. The bolt approach is much cheaper than a camber plate.
I'm quite pleased with how the car handles now. I have the toe set to 0 in the front so the tires shouldn't see too much abuse.
If you are interested, rear wheel alignment info can be found here:
http://www.trdsparks.com/install/tCRWheelAlignment.pdf
Again, are you trying to improve handling, what is your objective here?
An alignment will be required with any camber adjustment as it will significantly throw off your toe. The reason for this is that the steering arm is not centered on the wheel hub. This will throw off your toe drastically with camber adjustment. If you don't adjust toe you can wear through your tires in a few hundred miles depending on how much you adjusted the camber.
Again, are you trying to improve handling, what is your objective here?
Again, are you trying to improve handling, what is your objective here?
no its a summer toy man. here in grand forks the winters are way to brutal for my turbo tc to be a dd hahah it will be a snow plow if i try. but i have my winter beast so i can go off-roading in the winter too fun all year round hahahah.
This setup is with autocross in mind, so it's not necessarily something you want to run just on the road. The slight toe-out is to aid the rear end in rotating a bit more.
This car IS my daily driver. Camber alone should not chew up tires unless you are running quite a bit. Toe + camber will chew your tires, which is part of the reason I run 0 toe in the front.
Most car companies set up their cars with more negative camber in the rear and/or more positive camber in the front. Additionally, they may add toe-in in the rear. The Scion is setup this way nominally, with 0 front toe vs 0.3° rear toe in, and -0.52° front camber vs -0.9° rear camber, although with the tolerances this can change. Car companies do this so in the event of some quick or aggressive maneuver the rear end stays in line and the car understeers, aided by the camber settings (more front positive means you are already running on the outside of the tire, as the weight shifts and the tire rolls farther over you lose front grip, inducing understeer). Keep this in mind when you are playing with the settings. Adding more negative to the front can help with handling but just keep in the back of your mind how the car might behave as a result. As long as you are careful and keep toe close to 0 you should be ok wear-wise.
Also keep in mind that by adding negative camber you will improve handling but will also sacrifice straight-line grip, since I see you are turbo that may be a factor.
Last edited by Rexpelagi; Aug 11, 2009 at 01:16 AM.
My toe is 0 in the front with -2.0 degrees camber. For the rear my toe is set slightly out (still within the factory toe-in setting specs I believe, just reversed, keep in mind that .5º toe out shouldn't wear your tires any more than .5º toe in) and -1.2 degrees on camber. I have not noticed any uneven wear, but I just got new tires so we shall see.
This setup is with autocross in mind, so it's not necessarily something you want to run just on the road. The slight toe-out is to aid the rear end in rotating a bit more.
This car IS my daily driver. Camber alone should not chew up tires unless you are running quite a bit. Toe + camber will chew your tires, which is part of the reason I run 0 toe in the front.
Most car companies set up their cars with more negative camber in the rear and/or more positive camber in the front. Additionally, they may add toe-in in the rear. The Scion is setup this way nominally, with 0 front toe vs 0.3° rear toe in, and -0.52° front camber vs -0.9° rear camber, although with the tolerances this can change. Car companies do this so in the event of some quick or aggressive maneuver the rear end stays in line and the car understeers, aided by the camber settings (more front positive means you are already running on the outside of the tire, as the weight shifts and the tire rolls farther over you lose front grip, inducing understeer). Keep this in mind when you are playing with the settings. Adding more negative to the front can help with handling but just keep in the back of your mind how the car might behave as a result. As long as you are careful and keep toe close to 0 you should be ok wear-wise.
Also keep in mind that by adding negative camber you will improve handling but will also sacrifice straight-line grip, since I see you are turbo that may be a factor.
This setup is with autocross in mind, so it's not necessarily something you want to run just on the road. The slight toe-out is to aid the rear end in rotating a bit more.
This car IS my daily driver. Camber alone should not chew up tires unless you are running quite a bit. Toe + camber will chew your tires, which is part of the reason I run 0 toe in the front.
Most car companies set up their cars with more negative camber in the rear and/or more positive camber in the front. Additionally, they may add toe-in in the rear. The Scion is setup this way nominally, with 0 front toe vs 0.3° rear toe in, and -0.52° front camber vs -0.9° rear camber, although with the tolerances this can change. Car companies do this so in the event of some quick or aggressive maneuver the rear end stays in line and the car understeers, aided by the camber settings (more front positive means you are already running on the outside of the tire, as the weight shifts and the tire rolls farther over you lose front grip, inducing understeer). Keep this in mind when you are playing with the settings. Adding more negative to the front can help with handling but just keep in the back of your mind how the car might behave as a result. As long as you are careful and keep toe close to 0 you should be ok wear-wise.
Also keep in mind that by adding negative camber you will improve handling but will also sacrifice straight-line grip, since I see you are turbo that may be a factor.
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