Just got mine in, thanks a lot man...i noticed from the pics on here and the pics on your site that im gonna need to use more washers then the ones they came with.

 

Still trying to work something out for the front endlinks so they dont keep on coming loose. Iwas thinking of just putting in spacers until the end of the bolts so the nuts have no where to travel.

 

Maybe a larger locknut than the one that is there?

 

hmmm will look into that. I will try to take em off tonite and mess with it b4 I autox next weekend :D will post up!

back to rear endlinks!

 

Werd! Or try 2 lock nuts backed against one another.

 

hmm kewlio ill go to lowes/home depot and pick em up i assume they are pretty common to get em.

 

Yes they are.

 

hey dezod, since i have the hotchkis sways, I mounted my endlinks on the inside of the mount on the a-arm as opposed on the outside like the stock location. This helped me gain a more up and down endlink, and seems to be perfectly up and down...

 

Hmm. Interesting.

 

Still have TONS in stock!!!!!!!!

 

I chose to install it this way because I mounted it on the outside and the endlink (no matter how far I adjusted it up or down, was at the end of its travel (i.e. the bolt was hitting the housing... would you mount it in a way other than I have? I can post pictures if you'd like...

 

Post Pics please!

 

I would be curious to see as well. Post them up!

 

Just as a fair warning... if you decide to install these, as I have, be SURE to thread them down as far as you can.

In order to align my "horozontal" bars of the sway perpendicular to the ground, I had to lengthen the (V1) endlinks by not screwing them on very far. I figured about 3/4 inch or so would hold. I was wrong.

The bolt component of the endlink sheared off at the treads, on both sides. I arrived at my parent's about 3 hours away after a straight interstate drive, and one was intact but bent, the other completely broken off.

Since I've had them for more than 14 days, according to the return policy that I've agreed to, I'm just simply out $70.

Point is, if you install these, make damn sure that they're screwed down far and tight, even if your sway bar isn't horozontal.

 

You sheared an SS threaded rod off? That had to be some WRONG install or BAD pot hole or something. I have had these on my wife's TC for over 6 months, and she drives 80 miles round trip to and from work with no issues.

She is running a Progress bar on the softer settings. FYI

Did you install them on a lift or on the ground? This sounds more install related. PM your order ID

 

same thing happened to my passenger one. and mine were adjusted all the way as short as they could go, yet one of them still bent right in the middle where the threads show, between the two nuts.

 

I installed it in my garage. I jacked up both rear wheels, removed them, ensured the suspension assemblies were at equal height. Uninstalled stock end links.

Used the stock end links to get a baseline for length adjustment. Decided that this would be too long for the aftermarkets, Screwed it down a few more threads, so that there was probably just over 1/2 inch of bolt within the sleeve. At this level, The TRD's horozontal bars were still off (too low). I figured I could live with that.

edit: about 30 degrees below perpendicular as the car was sitting on the ground.

Tires back on. Car back on the ground.

Did not get a chance to autocross with them yet. Yes, the potholes are pretty bad, but I do take care to avoid when possible.

TRD springs / TRD sway bar on race setting

When I saw they were broken, I was about 200 miles from my home, and 200 miles away from my stock end-links. I took 2 sets of vice grips and forced the threading back on to the best of my ability, so that I could have SOMETHING on the car until I could get home.

I hope the newer ones come with a longer bolt, allowing more height adjustment. At this point, I'll wait to shell out another 70 until the stockies break.

 

THERE is the problem. The endlinks need to be replaced on FULL LOAD of the suspension. In other words, the wheels have to be on ground, the springs and shocks need the weight of the car on them as well. Otherwise, if you do not, when you lower the car, you put an array of weird torsion on the assembly and create an unusual breaking in the assembly.

 

Oh well... there goes my $70.

Well, what do I need to do to be sure this doesn't happen with the stock endlinks I have on there now? Get under there, loosen, and retighten?

 

You will need to have the car on the ground to install the units. You CAN NOT install them with the wheels on the ground because of what I mentioned in the post above here. ^^

Other than that, with full load on the suspension, it's VERY straight forward on install.