Road Race Suspension settings for tC
Ok so I have a big get together and track day with Texas-racing.com ( check it out guys!) on July 9th at MSR Houston .... and I have a lot of knowledge being thrown around at me about road racing other cars ( miatas etc.) but I want to know what are some of the settings, camber wise, you guys are using with the tC..... Im wanting to set my tC up to perform well ....... I know that with a strut set up as your car rolls into the turn your camber actually can become positive....so can I get away with a -1.8 or -2 static camber setting up front and -1 or -1.5 static in the rear?...... I need some suggestion from the pros, so let me know guys!!!
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You can run -2 all around with zero tire wear issues.. it takes a lot of camber to wear tires unevenly. You will need camber bolts to get much at all in the front though.
I autox mine, so the setup for that will be a bit different than for road racing. A car will tend to oversteer more on a long sweeper than on a tight, autox corner. So you dont need as much rear sway as you would for a perfect autox setup.
If you dont have much experience tracking the car though.. dont go trying to make it rotate more. Manufacturers tune a cars suspension to understeer for safety reasons. You dont want to add a ton more camber up front, run a lot stiffer sway settings in the rear, etc for example if you have not tracked it before. REason being that being bass ackwards at 100 mph is a lot harder to correct (especially in a FWD) than understeering wide in a corner.
But I would say to just run -2 or so all around for camber if you can.
I am running -2 in back, -1.75 in front.. mainly because I couldnt get the full -2 up front using one camber bolt on each side. I have another pair of them and will probably install them so I can get more out of it later.
I autox mine, so the setup for that will be a bit different than for road racing. A car will tend to oversteer more on a long sweeper than on a tight, autox corner. So you dont need as much rear sway as you would for a perfect autox setup.
If you dont have much experience tracking the car though.. dont go trying to make it rotate more. Manufacturers tune a cars suspension to understeer for safety reasons. You dont want to add a ton more camber up front, run a lot stiffer sway settings in the rear, etc for example if you have not tracked it before. REason being that being bass ackwards at 100 mph is a lot harder to correct (especially in a FWD) than understeering wide in a corner.
But I would say to just run -2 or so all around for camber if you can.
I am running -2 in back, -1.75 in front.. mainly because I couldnt get the full -2 up front using one camber bolt on each side. I have another pair of them and will probably install them so I can get more out of it later.
I'm running -2.5 camber up front and -1 in the rear.
KSport Coilovers with 12k/180mm springs in the front and 10k/160mm springs in the rear, with TRD Sway bar in the rear and stock front sway bar.
Alignment is also very important, I don't have that sheet here with me but I know I'm zero'd in the rear and very little toe out in the front.
I have been playing with all this for over a year, and now car rotates great on low speed (autox) and in high speed it has a lot of grip with little or no understeer.
KSport Coilovers with 12k/180mm springs in the front and 10k/160mm springs in the rear, with TRD Sway bar in the rear and stock front sway bar.
Alignment is also very important, I don't have that sheet here with me but I know I'm zero'd in the rear and very little toe out in the front.
I have been playing with all this for over a year, and now car rotates great on low speed (autox) and in high speed it has a lot of grip with little or no understeer.
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next time i do an alignment ill keep that advice in mind

