Tein Basics....need feedback
I just got them installed. the ride feels real good, almost as smooth as stock, you really feel it in the bumps. meaning AVOID THE POT HOLES! but other than that. totaly worth it. for me it was like 1000 installed. I kinda wish I saved alittle more and got the ss's but I am in no way dissatisfied with them. it uses the stock mounts which I'm not crazy about but the overall quality out weighs that.. gettem you won't be unhappy....
i have them. rides like stock, just lowered. agree with the bumps and potholes. you can really feel it. the spring rate is a lot more aggressive than stock.
the ss-p with pillowball mounts is a different story. its a lot more softer and has dampening force changes. you control the rebound of the shock with a hex wrench.
both are extremely easy to install
the ss-p with pillowball mounts is a different story. its a lot more softer and has dampening force changes. you control the rebound of the shock with a hex wrench.
both are extremely easy to install
Minor correction: The SS versions across the Tein line have that adjustment of damping action. According to literature at Tein.com this screw bleeds on both upbound and rebound. Therefore if you alter the bleed you simply bypass or restrict the main circuit of hydraulic fluid flow.

So, the screw equally affects both actions. The vehicle will get a lot softer riding when the default upbound resistance is reduced by increasing the bleed. But too, the rebound resistance is lessened in kind (so far as I know by deductive logic alone)
I don't know a lot about damper technology. Really little. But have always considered control of rebound as the sole important action for a comfort ride
If you think about it (and they did know this as early as 1910, demonstrated at auto shows by The Hartford Shock Absorber company with a graphic demonstration by miniature cars), we want no damping on the upbound, for that most comfort ride.
so to not up-thrust the vehicle.
---here I pause because I'm getting into interesting, simple facts---maybe too deeply? (?) I don't like to appear a know it all because I sure don't!
continue a bit more?
What kind of ride do you want? The universal-action bleed screw simulates -performance- at the expense of comfort ride. IF we want to street slalom and the street is relatively free of potholes and bumps then by all means crank shut the SS's bleed screw because this will make the vehicle feel -much more- responsive to turning, swerving and quick alterations in direction.
does this make sense so far? I'm trying to help peeps understand by going back to the basics. Springs SOAK up the bump but RETURN the bump if the rebound is not damped. This is about as simple as can be exrpressed yet I suppose at first read it appears like Greek. It did to me, anyway.
one more thing: Springs are our actual shock absorbers. The "shock absorbers" are best termed "dampers", and many firms and nations use "damper" in correct exclusion to the old established USA mis-terming. Dampers convert the kinetic energy of bounding springs into heat. Damping the rebound prevents the car from bounding and tossing the occupants up in the air. This was so evident in early cars with the style of damper called a "snubber", which worked only on the rebound, absorbing the recoil-power of the spring system.

So, the screw equally affects both actions. The vehicle will get a lot softer riding when the default upbound resistance is reduced by increasing the bleed. But too, the rebound resistance is lessened in kind (so far as I know by deductive logic alone)
I don't know a lot about damper technology. Really little. But have always considered control of rebound as the sole important action for a comfort ride
If you think about it (and they did know this as early as 1910, demonstrated at auto shows by The Hartford Shock Absorber company with a graphic demonstration by miniature cars), we want no damping on the upbound, for that most comfort ride.
so to not up-thrust the vehicle.
---here I pause because I'm getting into interesting, simple facts---maybe too deeply? (?) I don't like to appear a know it all because I sure don't!
continue a bit more?
What kind of ride do you want? The universal-action bleed screw simulates -performance- at the expense of comfort ride. IF we want to street slalom and the street is relatively free of potholes and bumps then by all means crank shut the SS's bleed screw because this will make the vehicle feel -much more- responsive to turning, swerving and quick alterations in direction.
does this make sense so far? I'm trying to help peeps understand by going back to the basics. Springs SOAK up the bump but RETURN the bump if the rebound is not damped. This is about as simple as can be exrpressed yet I suppose at first read it appears like Greek. It did to me, anyway.
one more thing: Springs are our actual shock absorbers. The "shock absorbers" are best termed "dampers", and many firms and nations use "damper" in correct exclusion to the old established USA mis-terming. Dampers convert the kinetic energy of bounding springs into heat. Damping the rebound prevents the car from bounding and tossing the occupants up in the air. This was so evident in early cars with the style of damper called a "snubber", which worked only on the rebound, absorbing the recoil-power of the spring system.
I just got my basics and I'm wondering, how many peeps out there have the coilovers adjusted all the way down. I'm sitting on 19s and wanted to know how much rubbing there will be. I checked the clearance (parked) and it's pretty tight with the wheels straight and surprisingly clears with the wheels fully turned. This is of course with the car parked. I haven't got a chance to test it out yet so I curious to see what anyone with tein basics/ss/ss-p have tried.
Originally Posted by SciFly
Minor correction: The SS versions across the Tein line have that adjustment of damping action. According to literature at Tein.com this screw bleeds on both upbound and rebound. Therefore if you alter the bleed you simply bypass or restrict the main circuit of hydraulic fluid flow.

So, the screw equally affects both actions. The vehicle will get a lot softer riding when the default upbound resistance is reduced by increasing the bleed. But too, the rebound resistance is lessened in kind (so far as I know by deductive logic alone)
I don't know a lot about damper technology. Really little. But have always considered control of rebound as the sole important action for a comfort ride
If you think about it (and they did know this as early as 1910, demonstrated at auto shows by The Hartford Shock Absorber company with a graphic demonstration by miniature cars), we want no damping on the upbound, for that most comfort ride.
so to not up-thrust the vehicle.
---here I pause because I'm getting into interesting, simple facts---maybe too deeply? (?) I don't like to appear a know it all because I sure don't!
continue a bit more?
What kind of ride do you want? The universal-action bleed screw simulates -performance- at the expense of comfort ride. IF we want to street slalom and the street is relatively free of potholes and bumps then by all means crank shut the SS's bleed screw because this will make the vehicle feel -much more- responsive to turning, swerving and quick alterations in direction.
does this make sense so far? I'm trying to help peeps understand by going back to the basics. Springs SOAK up the bump but RETURN the bump if the rebound is not damped. This is about as simple as can be exrpressed yet I suppose at first read it appears like Greek. It did to me, anyway.
one more thing: Springs are our actual shock absorbers. The "shock absorbers" are best termed "dampers", and many firms and nations use "damper" in correct exclusion to the old established USA mis-terming. Dampers convert the kinetic energy of bounding springs into heat. Damping the rebound prevents the car from bounding and tossing the occupants up in the air. This was so evident in early cars with the style of damper called a "snubber", which worked only on the rebound, absorbing the recoil-power of the spring system.

So, the screw equally affects both actions. The vehicle will get a lot softer riding when the default upbound resistance is reduced by increasing the bleed. But too, the rebound resistance is lessened in kind (so far as I know by deductive logic alone)
I don't know a lot about damper technology. Really little. But have always considered control of rebound as the sole important action for a comfort ride
If you think about it (and they did know this as early as 1910, demonstrated at auto shows by The Hartford Shock Absorber company with a graphic demonstration by miniature cars), we want no damping on the upbound, for that most comfort ride.
so to not up-thrust the vehicle.
---here I pause because I'm getting into interesting, simple facts---maybe too deeply? (?) I don't like to appear a know it all because I sure don't!
continue a bit more?
What kind of ride do you want? The universal-action bleed screw simulates -performance- at the expense of comfort ride. IF we want to street slalom and the street is relatively free of potholes and bumps then by all means crank shut the SS's bleed screw because this will make the vehicle feel -much more- responsive to turning, swerving and quick alterations in direction.
does this make sense so far? I'm trying to help peeps understand by going back to the basics. Springs SOAK up the bump but RETURN the bump if the rebound is not damped. This is about as simple as can be exrpressed yet I suppose at first read it appears like Greek. It did to me, anyway.
one more thing: Springs are our actual shock absorbers. The "shock absorbers" are best termed "dampers", and many firms and nations use "damper" in correct exclusion to the old established USA mis-terming. Dampers convert the kinetic energy of bounding springs into heat. Damping the rebound prevents the car from bounding and tossing the occupants up in the air. This was so evident in early cars with the style of damper called a "snubber", which worked only on the rebound, absorbing the recoil-power of the spring system.
Saying compression (not upbound, no one ever uses that term) is unnecessary is assuming suspension (sic) of one of Newton's Laws: an object in motion tends to stay in motion. So when that marvelous spring compresses and the unsprung mass gains inertia, what happens at the top of the bump without compression damping? The wheel keeps right on going off the top and into the air.
There are good reasons for both compression and rebound damping, and they have everything to do with the frequency response of the suspension.
To answer the real question here. No, I do not have the basics, however, Tein specifies the same spring rate for all three tC offerings. This means the ride with my SS-Ps is going to be very similar to the ride with your basics. It is far from harsh (I have Tein HAs on my Supra, come on over if you want to experience harsh first hand), and I have no issues with ride quality at all, despite my considerable concerns about the spring rates being twice the stock rate. Besides, you need the high spring rate to counter the dramatically increased roll couple when you drop the car 2" or so.
I would HIGHLY recommend saving your money and getting the SS-Ps simply because they come with camber plates. If you are seriously strapped for mod cash, then the basics will definitely be better than many other lowering options. At least the spring rates and damping rates are designed to work together.
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