Snapped a wheel stud.
#1
Snapped a wheel stud.
When i was getting my wheels repainted the lock lug was on too tight and while torqueing it off the wheel stud broke. I was just curious if anyone has had this happen and what the process was like to replace a wheel stud?
Thanks for any help
Thanks for any help
#3
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if you look on the backing plate for the studs you should see where you have to rotate it to so that the old stud comes out and goes in easier... also, you dont necessarily need to take the rotor off, just watch where your swinging the hammer
#5
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Ya i had an insident last week where they forgot to tighten 3 of the lugs so all 3 fell off and I was riding one 2(scariest shizznit ever) It was pretty simple to replace. Their like $2.50 a piece I think
#7
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#10
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sho...ace+wheel+stud
i followed this.. same thing but done on an xB.. now i use a torque wrench lol
i followed this.. same thing but done on an xB.. now i use a torque wrench lol
#12
I know this is really old, but for anyone who runs into this issue in the future, the back isn't much harder than the front if you're putting in stock studs.
Take off the wheel, caliper, and rotor, then rotate the wheel so the stud you want to replace is on the side towards the front of the car. Hammer it out (it will fall into the hub) then fish it out with your fingers.
Put the new stud in from behind (kinda tricky, but not too hard), put the rotor on, pull the e-brake, then tight a washer and nut over the new stud until it's all the way in.
You have to take the rotor off again to check that it's all the way in.
tl;dr: you don't need to remove the hub on the rear if you're using a stock bolt. You do for extended bolts (or at least for 50mm, haven't tested smaller).
Take off the wheel, caliper, and rotor, then rotate the wheel so the stud you want to replace is on the side towards the front of the car. Hammer it out (it will fall into the hub) then fish it out with your fingers.
Put the new stud in from behind (kinda tricky, but not too hard), put the rotor on, pull the e-brake, then tight a washer and nut over the new stud until it's all the way in.
You have to take the rotor off again to check that it's all the way in.
tl;dr: you don't need to remove the hub on the rear if you're using a stock bolt. You do for extended bolts (or at least for 50mm, haven't tested smaller).
#13
ive already had to repalce a couple wheel studs. i tighten them pretty tight but it seems like the things are so flimsy one good crank and they snap right off.
good thing they are only like 2$ a piece. i got a couple extras at the part store just to have on hand
good thing they are only like 2$ a piece. i got a couple extras at the part store just to have on hand
#14
you might want to get a torque wrench so that you don't keep over tightening the lug nuts on the lug/stud and snapping the lug off. the torque for the lug nuts is 76 ft-lbs.
#15
I brokeboff 4 studs. I purchased new studs, but they did not fit. The vertical grooves that go into the hole are just a hair too big. The diameter is a little bigger. I went back in to the auto parts store and the part says it is a direct fit. I was told that the whole hub assembly may need replaced. Has anyone felt with this problem before?
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