I hear a very faint grinding kind of sound coming from my stick when the car is cold
03-02-2017, 06:11 PM
#1
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I hear a very faint grinding kind of sound coming from my stick when the car is cold
Stumbled upon this page and wanted to throw my 2 cents in,
For the 2011-2014 scion tC with manual 6 speed transmissions Toyota makes a 75w designed to go in their transmissions. This is also the same oil used for the fr-s manual transmissions as well. I'm not sure what they put in it but if you don't replace the oil with the same oil you will feel some grinding.
I'm a tech at Toyota and at the beginning of summer I went ahead and did the TSB done for the main throw out bearing in out transmission. When draining the fluid I thought it really looked thin so I threw some 80w oil in it to see how it would do. That didn't work out to good so I bought some 75w valvoine synthetic and put that in there and still was not as smooth as before. So finally I have put back in the OEM 75w that Toyota sells and it's as smooth as butter once again. My advise would be to stick the stock fluid in it.
For the 2011-2014 scion tC with manual 6 speed transmissions Toyota makes a 75w designed to go in their transmissions. This is also the same oil used for the fr-s manual transmissions as well. I'm not sure what they put in it but if you don't replace the oil with the same oil you will feel some grinding.
I'm a tech at Toyota and at the beginning of summer I went ahead and did the TSB done for the main throw out bearing in out transmission. When draining the fluid I thought it really looked thin so I threw some 80w oil in it to see how it would do. That didn't work out to good so I bought some 75w valvoine synthetic and put that in there and still was not as smooth as before. So finally I have put back in the OEM 75w that Toyota sells and it's as smooth as butter once again. My advise would be to stick the stock fluid in it.
hello,
how can I just check if the oil has even been replaced?
I bought a 2013 tc 4 months ago with 93k miles on it, now its at 96.
about to do oil change with spark plugs and filters.
I also want to check if not change the trans oil.
the reason is that I hear a very faint grinding kind of sound coming from my stick when the car is cold and I shift into third or fourth gears.
if it is the throw out bearing are we looking at a high cost repair?
what does the throw out bearing sound like and does the sound come from the shift stick?
and excuse my ignorance but what is the tsb?
Last edited by MR_LUV; 08-01-2017 at 08:34 AM. Reason: correction
03-03-2017, 11:01 AM
#2
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Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) are recommended steps and procedures for repairing
Hello manuallife! Welcome to SL!
1. Unless you have the service record do not assumed any of your fluids were recently changed. Go ahead and change your fluids to have a baseline.
For normal driving conditions some car manufacturers recommend changing gear oil every 60,000-80,000,
while others advise inspecting the gear oil at regular services and change if dirty.
Checking the gearbox oil level, draining and refilling
2. I will have to defer the noise and throw out bearing question to anyone with an Manual. Mine is an Automatic.
3. Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) are recommended steps and procedures for repairing vehicles:
Scion Technical Service Bulletins
__________________
1. Unless you have the service record do not assumed any of your fluids were recently changed. Go ahead and change your fluids to have a baseline.
For normal driving conditions some car manufacturers recommend changing gear oil every 60,000-80,000,
while others advise inspecting the gear oil at regular services and change if dirty.
Checking the gearbox oil level, draining and refilling
2. I will have to defer the noise and throw out bearing question to anyone with an Manual. Mine is an Automatic.
3. Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) are recommended steps and procedures for repairing vehicles:
Scion Technical Service Bulletins
__________________
03-03-2017, 02:34 PM
#3
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I honestly don't suspect the Throw Out Bearing if you're noticing this grinding only in certain gears. This sounds more like something inside the trans. However, this type of scenario is somewhat common with bad or incorrect gear oil. That's what I would go after first, as it's a cheap and relatively easy fix. I personally have a tc1, but most FWD transaxles are pretty much the same procedure.
If you live in a colder climate (that dips below freezing at times), I'd recommend trying a good GL-4 gear oil like Redline MT85. Technically their MT90 is the correct grade, but I found it to be a notchy when cold, that goes away once warm. MT85 is a bit thinner, and many folks have had good results. Other gear oils that are recommended and have had good results is GM Sychromesh (yes, GM), Motul 300V (I had good results with this one), and Amsoil Severe Gear 75W90.
Unfortunately gear oils are not as fool proof as engine oils, and many of the name brands out there have not performed well. The one's I mentioned above have been tried by many with great results and noticeable improvements in shifting. After changing your gear oil, give it about a 100 miles or so for it to work it's way though. It needs time to flush out the old oil because the oil just sits at the bottom until you start driving around.
If you live in a colder climate (that dips below freezing at times), I'd recommend trying a good GL-4 gear oil like Redline MT85. Technically their MT90 is the correct grade, but I found it to be a notchy when cold, that goes away once warm. MT85 is a bit thinner, and many folks have had good results. Other gear oils that are recommended and have had good results is GM Sychromesh (yes, GM), Motul 300V (I had good results with this one), and Amsoil Severe Gear 75W90.
Unfortunately gear oils are not as fool proof as engine oils, and many of the name brands out there have not performed well. The one's I mentioned above have been tried by many with great results and noticeable improvements in shifting. After changing your gear oil, give it about a 100 miles or so for it to work it's way though. It needs time to flush out the old oil because the oil just sits at the bottom until you start driving around.
03-03-2017, 07:02 PM
#4
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I honestly don't suspect the Throw Out Bearing if you're noticing this grinding only in certain gears. This sounds more like something inside the trans. However, this type of scenario is somewhat common with bad or incorrect gear oil. That's what I would go after first, as it's a cheap and relatively easy fix. I personally have a tc1, but most FWD transaxles are pretty much the same procedure.
If you live in a colder climate (that dips below freezing at times), I'd recommend trying a good GL-4 gear oil like Redline MT85. Technically their MT90 is the correct grade, but I found it to be a notchy when cold, that goes away once warm. MT85 is a bit thinner, and many folks have had good results. Other gear oils that are recommended and have had good results is GM Sychromesh (yes, GM), Motul 300V (I had good results with this one), and Amsoil Severe Gear 75W90.
Unfortunately gear oils are not as fool proof as engine oils, and many of the name brands out there have not performed well. The one's I mentioned above have been tried by many with great results and noticeable improvements in shifting. After changing your gear oil, give it about a 100 miles or so for it to work it's way though. It needs time to flush out the old oil because the oil just sits at the bottom until you start driving around.
If you live in a colder climate (that dips below freezing at times), I'd recommend trying a good GL-4 gear oil like Redline MT85. Technically their MT90 is the correct grade, but I found it to be a notchy when cold, that goes away once warm. MT85 is a bit thinner, and many folks have had good results. Other gear oils that are recommended and have had good results is GM Sychromesh (yes, GM), Motul 300V (I had good results with this one), and Amsoil Severe Gear 75W90.
Unfortunately gear oils are not as fool proof as engine oils, and many of the name brands out there have not performed well. The one's I mentioned above have been tried by many with great results and noticeable improvements in shifting. After changing your gear oil, give it about a 100 miles or so for it to work it's way though. It needs time to flush out the old oil because the oil just sits at the bottom until you start driving around.
i really like these forums.
the folks here are nice and involved
i live in California.
weather is about to get hot here.
only mild cold mornings on winter
i drive mostly street. Nowhere far.
but do spirited driving oftentimes.
i am at 96 k miles and don't know what engine oil to use.
my mechanic said 10w30.
The engine oil cap on my tc says 0w20
what should i do here?
And as for the trans oil.
The sound emanating from the stick
as i switch from 2nd to 3rd is more like a cat's hissing sound.
is there any diy tutorial for 2nd gen tc?
i cant find any.
i hope it's just the oil.
i will check tomorrow morning.
Last edited by MR_LUV; 08-01-2017 at 08:35 AM. Reason: correction
03-04-2017, 05:50 AM
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i live in California. i am at 96 k miles and don't know what engine oil to use. my mechanic said 10w30. The engine oil cap on my tc says 0w20 what should i do here?
And as for the trans oil. The sound emanating from the stick
as i switch from 2nd to 3rd is more like a cat's hissing sound. is there any diy tutorial for 2nd gen tc? i cant find any. i hope it's just the oil.
And as for the trans oil. The sound emanating from the stick
as i switch from 2nd to 3rd is more like a cat's hissing sound. is there any diy tutorial for 2nd gen tc? i cant find any. i hope it's just the oil.
Manual says SAE 0W-20 ILSAC multigrade engine oil. Factory OCI is every 10,000 miles.
AFAIK, there is not a DIY tutorial on the tC2 trans oil specifically.
There is one for the tC1=2005-2010:
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/tc-...mt-90-a-59661/
Also you can use this as a basic video Guide:
I would also follow bbsciontc advice above. I would go with the gear box oil change 1st to see if it takes care of the noise, before I suspect something more serious.
03-05-2017, 06:06 PM
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I would recommend you follow the Manufacturer's recommendation:
Manual says SAE 0W-20 ILSAC multigrade engine oil. Factory OCI is every 10,000 miles.
AFAIK, there is not a DIY tutorial on the tC2 trans oil specifically.
There is one for the tC1=2005-2010:
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/tc-...mt-90-a-59661/
Also you can use this as a basic video Guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3UtUQ6Q3qzg
I would also follow bbsciontc advice above. I would go with the gear box oil change 1st to see if it takes care of the noise, before I suspect something more serious.
Manual says SAE 0W-20 ILSAC multigrade engine oil. Factory OCI is every 10,000 miles.
AFAIK, there is not a DIY tutorial on the tC2 trans oil specifically.
There is one for the tC1=2005-2010:
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/tc-...mt-90-a-59661/
Also you can use this as a basic video Guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3UtUQ6Q3qzg
I would also follow bbsciontc advice above. I would go with the gear box oil change 1st to see if it takes care of the noise, before I suspect something more serious.
filters, and sparkplugs. That is done.
the transmission oil turned out to be at low level.
i stuck my finger in the fill hole and it was very dry.
i figured " hey that is why i hear that hissing sound when car is cold, gears need oil".
i used royal purple 75w90. ( couldn't find amsoil where i live.)
i test drove the car this morning when cold.
and well the noise is still there.
i also notice that i struggle to shift from first to second gear, it is not a smooth feeling in my stick, its bumpy and rough. ( only when cold)
and if i pay attention to the sounds, if clunks also.
once i drive for 10 min or more, the shifts are smooth again.
Do i need a new clutch or gear box?
Last edited by MR_LUV; 08-01-2017 at 08:35 AM. Reason: correction
03-06-2017, 12:48 PM
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It is possible that you have internal damage, in which case swapping the trans out would be the most cost effective option (rather than repairing it). However, this needs to be diagnosed by a technician to determine if that is indeed the root cause. You don't want to be doing the trial and error method for something expensive.
For the gear oil change, did you drain and refill? I haven't heard good things about Royal Purple gear oil, hence why I recommended the ones above. Buy enough of this on Amazon: Drain out all the old stuff before adding this. Not sure of capacity, but it was 2.5-2.6 qts on the tc1. I obviously can't promise you anything, but personally, I'd try the $50 fix before any of the other options, which will certainly be upwards of $1500.
For the gear oil change, did you drain and refill? I haven't heard good things about Royal Purple gear oil, hence why I recommended the ones above. Buy enough of this on Amazon: Drain out all the old stuff before adding this. Not sure of capacity, but it was 2.5-2.6 qts on the tc1. I obviously can't promise you anything, but personally, I'd try the $50 fix before any of the other options, which will certainly be upwards of $1500.
03-06-2017, 04:14 PM
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and use the manufacturer's recommended 0w20 if you want to keep your engine young.
Despite the work you done so far, the fact remains you bought a 2013 tC with 93k on it. Now have over 96k on it.
Most car manufacturer's Basic Warranty is based on expected average driving of 3 years/36,000 miles.
So the previous owner or owners racked between 2 and 2-1/2 times the expected mileage before you got your hands on it.
No maintenance record, No telling the person's driving habits: spirited driving, racing, wearing clutches, grinding gears.
I sorry, but, I suspect you have a high mileage beauty that may have suffered prior damage due to neglect by the previous owner.
The only way to ascertain that is to see a Pro, a transmission specialist and get a on site inspection and diagnosis. Get a couple of profession opinions.
03-06-2017, 06:46 PM
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bbsciontc is recommending you use the Amazon Red Line MT-85 instead of the RP. And I am recommending you get rid of the 5w30
and use the manufacturer's recommended 0w20 if you want to keep your engine young.
Despite the work you done so far, the fact remains you bought a 2013 tC with 93k on it. Now have over 96k on it.
Most car manufacturer's Basic Warranty is based on expected average driving of 3 years/36,000 miles.
So the previous owner or owners racked between 2 and 2-1/2 times the expected mileage before you got your hands on it.
No maintenance record, No telling the person's driving habits: spirited driving, racing, wearing clutches, grinding gears.
I sorry, but, I suspect you have a high mileage beauty that may have suffered prior damage due to neglect by the previous owner.
The only way to ascertain that is to see a Pro, a transmission specialist and get a on site inspection and diagnosis. Get a couple of profession opinions.
and use the manufacturer's recommended 0w20 if you want to keep your engine young.
Despite the work you done so far, the fact remains you bought a 2013 tC with 93k on it. Now have over 96k on it.
Most car manufacturer's Basic Warranty is based on expected average driving of 3 years/36,000 miles.
So the previous owner or owners racked between 2 and 2-1/2 times the expected mileage before you got your hands on it.
No maintenance record, No telling the person's driving habits: spirited driving, racing, wearing clutches, grinding gears.
I sorry, but, I suspect you have a high mileage beauty that may have suffered prior damage due to neglect by the previous owner.
The only way to ascertain that is to see a Pro, a transmission specialist and get a on site inspection and diagnosis. Get a couple of profession opinions.
isn't it recommended to upgrade the oil weight as the engine gets more miles into it?
as for the gears oil
i mean, it's obvious that 2nd gear syncro goes out first in most cases.
but hit a wall before engaging 2nd gear when cold only?
after warm second gear is smooth again.
can't be the syncro then, right?
i will swap out the rp oil for redline.
and i will take it to specialist
Last edited by MR_LUV; 08-01-2017 at 08:36 AM. Reason: correction
03-07-2017, 06:35 PM
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Don't change engine oil viscosity for high mileage. Use a high mileage oil.
Regarding synchros, it's not necessarily true that 2nd gear goes first. Most wear is a result of user error, and most transmissions are deigned to use better synchro arrangements for lower gears where more shifting takes place.
Now in your case, you may very well have a worn synchro. Synchros are basically a set of brass rings that normally rotate past one another, but when force is applied (as in shifting into a gear), the concentric brass rings press together and start to match speed through friction (kind of like a brake) to get the gear in "sync" with the rotating shaft of the transmission.
A worn synchro may indeed contribute to what you are experiencing, since this "brake" speed matching effect isn't happening for you at cold temperatures. So what does temperature have to do with this? Well even though the brass rings in the synchro are supposed to match gear speed through friction, they are trying to do this though a film of gear oil that separates them. When gear oil is cold, it is thicker. The thickness somewhat hinders the ability of the synchros to carry out their function since the oil is reducing friction. The MT-85 I recommended is a slightly thinner oil that may help your situation by getting out of the way of the synchro rings at lower temperatures. It is also a GL-4 grade oil with friction modifiers to improve synchro performance without being corrosive to the brass material.
I can't promise that this will help. If your synchros are worn, they are only going to continue to get worse. However, since your issue is temperature dependent right now, that suggests that they are not completely gone yet. If this works, and you continue to drive properly without being too aggressive with your shifts, you can hopefully still get some life out of it before having to repair or replace the trans.
Regarding synchros, it's not necessarily true that 2nd gear goes first. Most wear is a result of user error, and most transmissions are deigned to use better synchro arrangements for lower gears where more shifting takes place.
Now in your case, you may very well have a worn synchro. Synchros are basically a set of brass rings that normally rotate past one another, but when force is applied (as in shifting into a gear), the concentric brass rings press together and start to match speed through friction (kind of like a brake) to get the gear in "sync" with the rotating shaft of the transmission.
A worn synchro may indeed contribute to what you are experiencing, since this "brake" speed matching effect isn't happening for you at cold temperatures. So what does temperature have to do with this? Well even though the brass rings in the synchro are supposed to match gear speed through friction, they are trying to do this though a film of gear oil that separates them. When gear oil is cold, it is thicker. The thickness somewhat hinders the ability of the synchros to carry out their function since the oil is reducing friction. The MT-85 I recommended is a slightly thinner oil that may help your situation by getting out of the way of the synchro rings at lower temperatures. It is also a GL-4 grade oil with friction modifiers to improve synchro performance without being corrosive to the brass material.
I can't promise that this will help. If your synchros are worn, they are only going to continue to get worse. However, since your issue is temperature dependent right now, that suggests that they are not completely gone yet. If this works, and you continue to drive properly without being too aggressive with your shifts, you can hopefully still get some life out of it before having to repair or replace the trans.
03-08-2017, 02:29 AM
#12
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Don't change engine oil viscosity for high mileage. Use a high mileage oil.
Regarding synchros, it's not necessarily true that 2nd gear goes first. Most wear is a result of user error, and most transmissions are deigned to use better synchro arrangements for lower gears where more shifting takes place.
Now in your case, you may very well have a worn synchro. Synchros are basically a set of brass rings that normally rotate past one another, but when force is applied (as in shifting into a gear), the concentric brass rings press together and start to match speed through friction (kind of like a brake) to get the gear in "sync" with the rotating shaft of the transmission.
A worn synchro may indeed contribute to what you are experiencing, since this "brake" speed matching effect isn't happening for you at cold temperatures. So what does temperature have to do with this? Well even though the brass rings in the synchro are supposed to match gear speed through friction, they are trying to do this though a film of gear oil that separates them. When gear oil is cold, it is thicker. The thickness somewhat hinders the ability of the synchros to carry out their function since the oil is reducing friction. The MT-85 I recommended is a slightly thinner oil that may help your situation by getting out of the way of the synchro rings at lower temperatures. It is also a GL-4 grade oil with friction modifiers to improve synchro performance without being corrosive to the brass material.
I can't promise that this will help. If your synchros are worn, they are only going to continue to get worse. However, since your issue is temperature dependent right now, that suggests that they are not completely gone yet. If this works, and you continue to drive properly without being too aggressive with your shifts, you can hopefully still get some life out of it before having to repair or replace the trans.
Regarding synchros, it's not necessarily true that 2nd gear goes first. Most wear is a result of user error, and most transmissions are deigned to use better synchro arrangements for lower gears where more shifting takes place.
Now in your case, you may very well have a worn synchro. Synchros are basically a set of brass rings that normally rotate past one another, but when force is applied (as in shifting into a gear), the concentric brass rings press together and start to match speed through friction (kind of like a brake) to get the gear in "sync" with the rotating shaft of the transmission.
A worn synchro may indeed contribute to what you are experiencing, since this "brake" speed matching effect isn't happening for you at cold temperatures. So what does temperature have to do with this? Well even though the brass rings in the synchro are supposed to match gear speed through friction, they are trying to do this though a film of gear oil that separates them. When gear oil is cold, it is thicker. The thickness somewhat hinders the ability of the synchros to carry out their function since the oil is reducing friction. The MT-85 I recommended is a slightly thinner oil that may help your situation by getting out of the way of the synchro rings at lower temperatures. It is also a GL-4 grade oil with friction modifiers to improve synchro performance without being corrosive to the brass material.
I can't promise that this will help. If your synchros are worn, they are only going to continue to get worse. However, since your issue is temperature dependent right now, that suggests that they are not completely gone yet. If this works, and you continue to drive properly without being too aggressive with your shifts, you can hopefully still get some life out of it before having to repair or replace the trans.
i did buy an extended warranty which should cover some parts of the transmission...i doubt it will cover the synchros though.
i will be extra soft with it at mornings and just wait and see the next specialist.
i also heard it could be the linkage of gear box and transmission.
96k miles maybe no service in the boot right?
Last edited by MR_LUV; 08-01-2017 at 08:37 AM. Reason: correction
03-09-2017, 12:16 PM
#13
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A power train warranty should cover the synchros of a tranmission. They are not considered a wear item like a clutch or flywheel for instance. How willing they are to honor the warranty is a different story.
03-09-2017, 09:43 PM
#14
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anyway thanks for the insights.
i will keep updated as soon as i can get this going.
Last edited by MR_LUV; 08-01-2017 at 08:37 AM. Reason: correction
03-13-2017, 02:35 AM
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Bad synchro, clutch or tranny?
hello everyone and thanks in advance.
Well i have done and tried with this car but
my mechanic sucks.
he just ignores what i ask about the car, so i thought someone could help me here.
I just bought a 2013 tc manual transmission with 93 k miles on it.
yes it's used and it came with a whole lot of troubles.
first off alot of the bottom metals, including brake discs and random bars are rusty.
But that's not why i need help although advice would help
is it critical that i replace every part that i see rust on?
anyway
the problem is this:
after putting in 4 thousand more miles on it i have noticed that, in mornings when cold, engaging second gear is not smooth at all like the other gears.
the stick hits like a block or something before engaging and it feels stiff, doesn't grind or pop out. Well Maybe just 1 or 2 times it has happened but may have been my driving.idk
car runs fine, clutch feels fine, all other gears including reverse are fine even when cold.
after car is warmed up second gear is smooth again, but not in the mornings, and mornings are not even that cold here in california.
i also hear a hissing sound coming from the stick itself as i disengage 2nd and go to 3rd. Very brief but surely comes from the stick not the clutch.
i checked the gear oil and the level was low. (i stuck my finger in the fill hole of the transmission, and it was dry)
i decided to do a complete tune up so i replaced engine oil, spark plugs, filters, and of course gears oil.
for my high mileage engine i used synthetic royal purple 5w30 instead of the recommended 0w20.car drives fine.
for the transmission i used royal purple synthetic 75w90 as i couldn't find amsoil where i live.
i jacked up the car with only one floorjack ( i didn't have jack stands)
and went under it to drain the trasnmission, lowered the car and waited until it stopped, then jacked the car back up.
i then pumped the new oil in through the fill hole until it began to gush out.
i screwed the plug back in and done.
2nd gear is still super stiff at mornings and hard to engage.
even if i double clutch because i think it may be the synchro, this gear engages really stiffly and clunks when it engages.
can someone help please?
is it bad synchro?
or does my car have to be clutch adjusted?
i don't knkw what kind of treament it received with prior owner but i am fixing all these 100 thousand mile issues
Well i have done and tried with this car but
my mechanic sucks.
he just ignores what i ask about the car, so i thought someone could help me here.
I just bought a 2013 tc manual transmission with 93 k miles on it.
yes it's used and it came with a whole lot of troubles.
first off alot of the bottom metals, including brake discs and random bars are rusty.
But that's not why i need help although advice would help
is it critical that i replace every part that i see rust on?
anyway
the problem is this:
after putting in 4 thousand more miles on it i have noticed that, in mornings when cold, engaging second gear is not smooth at all like the other gears.
the stick hits like a block or something before engaging and it feels stiff, doesn't grind or pop out. Well Maybe just 1 or 2 times it has happened but may have been my driving.idk
car runs fine, clutch feels fine, all other gears including reverse are fine even when cold.
after car is warmed up second gear is smooth again, but not in the mornings, and mornings are not even that cold here in california.
i also hear a hissing sound coming from the stick itself as i disengage 2nd and go to 3rd. Very brief but surely comes from the stick not the clutch.
i checked the gear oil and the level was low. (i stuck my finger in the fill hole of the transmission, and it was dry)
i decided to do a complete tune up so i replaced engine oil, spark plugs, filters, and of course gears oil.
for my high mileage engine i used synthetic royal purple 5w30 instead of the recommended 0w20.car drives fine.
for the transmission i used royal purple synthetic 75w90 as i couldn't find amsoil where i live.
i jacked up the car with only one floorjack ( i didn't have jack stands)
and went under it to drain the trasnmission, lowered the car and waited until it stopped, then jacked the car back up.
i then pumped the new oil in through the fill hole until it began to gush out.
i screwed the plug back in and done.
2nd gear is still super stiff at mornings and hard to engage.
even if i double clutch because i think it may be the synchro, this gear engages really stiffly and clunks when it engages.
can someone help please?
is it bad synchro?
or does my car have to be clutch adjusted?
i don't knkw what kind of treament it received with prior owner but i am fixing all these 100 thousand mile issues
Last edited by MR_LUV; 08-01-2017 at 08:38 AM. Reason: correction
03-25-2017, 09:36 PM
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Whining noise and cold gearbox crunch through shifter
So this is an update on the situation just to help out there with similar cases.
changed my engine oil back to 0w20 synthetic.
car runs as it should.
changed my gear oil to red line 75w90 synthetic gl4.
shifting is smooth but still crunchy shifter going into2nd gear when box is cold.
i took my car to the toyota dealership so they can have my transmission diagnosed.
after the technician didn't dismount it and only test drove it he generated a write up of the possible causes this is what has happened.
Extended warranty inspector came by to test drive the car at the dealership.
said he didn't hear any noise and denied my claim.
said toyota technician didn'tgive enough detail to cover a replacement of transmission
I took it to my mechanic so he could tell me what it was finally.
he noticed a whining noise coming from my transmission that went away once he pressed the clutch pedal all the way in.
says it's the input shaft bearing.
will replace clutch and other bearings while at it.
i guess whining noise coming from the gearstick when cold is also related to transmission being a bearing.
2nd gear synchro may be another issue maybe?
anyway mechanic will charge 1000 for labor and parts,
i will ask him to check my synchros and gears when he dismounts my tranny.
i don't know how the previous owner raped this car.
changed my engine oil back to 0w20 synthetic.
car runs as it should.
changed my gear oil to red line 75w90 synthetic gl4.
shifting is smooth but still crunchy shifter going into2nd gear when box is cold.
i took my car to the toyota dealership so they can have my transmission diagnosed.
after the technician didn't dismount it and only test drove it he generated a write up of the possible causes this is what has happened.
Extended warranty inspector came by to test drive the car at the dealership.
said he didn't hear any noise and denied my claim.
said toyota technician didn'tgive enough detail to cover a replacement of transmission
I took it to my mechanic so he could tell me what it was finally.
he noticed a whining noise coming from my transmission that went away once he pressed the clutch pedal all the way in.
says it's the input shaft bearing.
will replace clutch and other bearings while at it.
i guess whining noise coming from the gearstick when cold is also related to transmission being a bearing.
2nd gear synchro may be another issue maybe?
anyway mechanic will charge 1000 for labor and parts,
i will ask him to check my synchros and gears when he dismounts my tranny.
i don't know how the previous owner raped this car.
Last edited by MR_LUV; 08-01-2017 at 08:38 AM. Reason: correction
04-03-2017, 09:46 PM
#17
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 2
Same experience with 07 tC plus some!!
I bought my tC last July & It makes grinding sound & really tight when shifting when cars cold bit goes away after few shifts. Its my understanding that its normal
Last edited by MR_LUV; 08-01-2017 at 08:38 AM. Reason: correction
04-03-2017, 10:10 PM
#18
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 13
you should begin with your trans fluid.
i have not experienced grinding but that can very well be your synchros.
my transmission is at the mechanic right now...took some pictures of it disassembled.
my synchros look fine.
He says my input shaft bearing is gone.
i dont think it is normal because when i bought the car it didn't do that
...it just began to do it.
something must beed adjustment or replacement.
i cannot tell until i test drive again if indeed it was just the bearing.
Last edited by MR_LUV; 08-01-2017 at 08:39 AM. Reason: correction
05-27-2017, 04:20 AM
#19
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 13
Hello again.
hi.
here we are again after quite some time with the transmission issue.
i hope you can find it in your time to give some thought on my situation.
so after dealing with so much crap from dealers and so on...
i took it to a not so good mechanic ( now i know that) to see the transmission.
after disassembly of transmission and replacement of main shaft front and rear bearings, front seal and rear main seal, the trasmission was put back together with a new clutch and new oil.
2nd gear still struggles when cold.
bummer!!.
but now that isn't the only problem.
Now when i am at 2nd or 3rd gear and let go of the gas pedal the car begins to decelerate and there is this loud whirring noise....same as the bearing noise when it goes out.
but it only happens at 3000 rpm.
the car did that before the transmission job but now its louder and more annoying.
can you please suggest something?
i will go to his shop first thing on Tuesday since this is a long weekend.
here we are again after quite some time with the transmission issue.
i hope you can find it in your time to give some thought on my situation.
so after dealing with so much crap from dealers and so on...
i took it to a not so good mechanic ( now i know that) to see the transmission.
after disassembly of transmission and replacement of main shaft front and rear bearings, front seal and rear main seal, the trasmission was put back together with a new clutch and new oil.
2nd gear still struggles when cold.
bummer!!.
but now that isn't the only problem.
Now when i am at 2nd or 3rd gear and let go of the gas pedal the car begins to decelerate and there is this loud whirring noise....same as the bearing noise when it goes out.
but it only happens at 3000 rpm.
the car did that before the transmission job but now its louder and more annoying.
can you please suggest something?
i will go to his shop first thing on Tuesday since this is a long weekend.
Last edited by MR_LUV; 08-01-2017 at 08:39 AM. Reason: correction
07-31-2017, 09:41 PM
#20
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 17
I honestly don't suspect the Throw Out Bearing if you're noticing this grinding only in certain gears. This sounds more like something inside the trans. However, this type of scenario is somewhat common with bad or incorrect gear oil. That's what I would go after first, as it's a cheap and relatively easy fix. I personally have a tc1, but most FWD transaxles are pretty much the same procedure.
If you live in a colder climate (that dips below freezing at times), I'd recommend trying a good GL-4 gear oil like Redline MT85. Technically their MT90 is the correct grade, but I found it to be a notchy when cold, that goes away once warm. MT85 is a bit thinner, and many folks have had good results. Other gear oils that are recommended and have had good results is GM Sychromesh (yes, GM), Motul 300V (I had good results with this one), and Amsoil Severe Gear 75W90.
Unfortunately gear oils are not as fool proof as engine oils, and many of the name brands out there have not performed well. The one's I mentioned above have been tried by many with great results and noticeable improvements in shifting. After changing your gear oil, give it about a 100 miles or so for it to work it's way though. It needs time to flush out the old oil because the oil just sits at the bottom until you start driving around.
If you live in a colder climate (that dips below freezing at times), I'd recommend trying a good GL-4 gear oil like Redline MT85. Technically their MT90 is the correct grade, but I found it to be a notchy when cold, that goes away once warm. MT85 is a bit thinner, and many folks have had good results. Other gear oils that are recommended and have had good results is GM Sychromesh (yes, GM), Motul 300V (I had good results with this one), and Amsoil Severe Gear 75W90.
Unfortunately gear oils are not as fool proof as engine oils, and many of the name brands out there have not performed well. The one's I mentioned above have been tried by many with great results and noticeable improvements in shifting. After changing your gear oil, give it about a 100 miles or so for it to work it's way though. It needs time to flush out the old oil because the oil just sits at the bottom until you start driving around.
Stumbled across this & believe you input is beneficial to my situation. Car has a real manual feeling while shifting after replacing clutch, fly wheel, master & slave. Wouldn't really engage before. Have always crunched into reverse, difficult, or just won't go. Thinking it's the gear oil that needs to be changed, synchro's, throw out bearing is fragged or something along those lines. Do you have any opinions as to what this may be?