Ordered the following for my big 3 upgrade. The only thing I'm not clear on is where to connect the ground wire to the engine, there's a video on youtube but it really doesn't show where it bolts to on the engine block...

Read good feedback on knukonceptz.com Kolussus wire and terminals so spent the 95.00 to get everything I need for the project.

1 Pair - Positive and Netagive Battery Terminals.
4 terminal ends 0 gauge
6 feet of Kolossus 0 gauge
5 feet of Kolossus 0 gauge.

Total with shipping $95.00

Anyone else use this and also if anyone has a good clear photo of their ground to engine block would appreciate it too... I'm sure once I get the airbox and everything cleared it might be easier to find....

I'll take photo's of my installation and try to post them up when I'm finished with the project.

 

Awesome! Let us know if you feel a difference like smoother idle or anything. Looking forward to seeing pics.

 

I'm hoping to see a little higher voltage to the amps, but more than likely won't notice any difference, still added insurance.

 

These two threads helped me out...
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=207049

https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sho...ighlight=big+3

 

Thanks, one thing about that install I'm not so sure of is running the wire up front along the radiator. It's gets pretty hot up front with the exhaust manifold up there. I ordered 6 feet and am going to run it along the back of the engine/firewall.

Also going to do some more research in regards to putting a fuse on the power wire, the shop have used in the past shop that has helped me with my installation said they don't recommend using one, but I'll have to make that decision after more research.

Also the stock grounding location, it's on sheet metal and there's a weld right there, I'm seriously considering going to the shock tower bolt as a better grounding location. Unfortunately I have another car in the garage I'm dynamatting, making some extra money so it's going to be awhile before I get back to mine...

Will post results here but again I'll probably not be able to notice the difference and the only thing I hope to gain is a little more voltage to the amps and more constant power. I'm running a JL 500/1 to the Sub and a Rockford 400-1 to the speakers. No light dimming or issues right now which is good but should I pick up a bigger 4 channel I think I'll be at the border of the stock wiring.

 

Either way, try to get some good pics of the connections and locations to further help people with this project. Good luck.

 

Okay the Wires, Terminals, and Connectors came in today. I'm impressed, nice quality pieces and heavy.

http://flic.kr/p/cpTLYu

http://flic.kr/p/cpTM2w

http://flic.kr/p/cpTLUS

I think I'm going to leave the stock wiring in place and just zip tie it back out of the way. That way if something happens to the car I can quickly remove my wire and put it back stock. I'm also going to run the power wire to the alternator along the stock harness across the back of the engine, I'll put tubing over it and zip tie it in place for a clean look. Also take a look at the third photo. Does this look like a good engine ground mounting location, there are three bolts and the two behind the one I'm pointing to with the screw driver have a bunch of black and white wires connected to them which also looks like grounding wires. The battery to chassis I may leave in the stock location since it's on the same metal that the shock tower is on so I don't see an advantage running it to the bolt where the strut mount is.

Suggestions or thoughts welcomed.

 

Stopped by Digital Car audio for a bit of advice from friends there. Have the install all planned out. I'm actually doing the Big 4 I think. Running a round from the alternator housing to the frame rail up front and found a hole already there that I can run a bolt through and a bolt on top of the alternator I can ground to. Also found the perfect location for the engine ground as well and picked up 3/4 wire tubing to protect the wire from heat and to zip tie to the existing harness. With the clean connectors I have, terminals and plan laid out this is going to be the perfect install. Too bad I have to wait till the weekend! Will take plenty of pics so you can see exactly how to duplicate the process.

 

Cant wait to see what you got going on.

 

Well this turned out to be a nightmare. Karmajack, right now I don't want to show you whats going on cause this sucks! There's no room, if i had a cold air kit on the car it would be better!

The ground side looks perfect. Ran one zero gauge from the negative battery terminal using the hole on the terminal for the wire at the battery and a ring terminal on the other end at the side of the engine block (nice terminal ends won't fit on the block!)

Next to the battery on the frame there is a flange. Removed the battery drilled a 5/16 hole, wire brushed the paint off and used knukonceptz terminal ends at the battery terminal and on the frame mounting it with 5/16" x 1" stainless steel bolt, washers and nylon locking nut cranked it down. Note: While I had the battery out noticed a factory ground running from the frame to the transmission, left this in place, may zero gauge it later.

Then also grounded the alternator casing. (recommended by stereo shop) If you look at the frame next to the alternator theres flange with a hole. Wire brushed the paint off, used a monster 300 terminal end, 5/16 diameter 1" bolt with two washers and a nylon lock nut, perfect. On the alternator side you will have to use a solder ring terminal with the plastic cover. There is a bracket on the top of the alternator with a bolt in it. Put the ring terminal end under that and bolt it down, don't over tighten the bolt because alternator housing bolts will strip easily (I speak from previous past experience).

Now to the positive which you would think would be easier... Followed the factory wire loom housing under the air box to the side of the engine and along the same route as the factory wire to the alternator. There are two positive wires on the factory positive battery end. You can unbolt them, one runs to the computer the other to the alternator. I disconnected the factory alternator wire at the alternator and at the battery but connected the 2nd wire that runs to the ECM to my positive terminal along with zero gauge with the knukonceptz battery terminal end. I wrapped the factory end and zip tied it up out of the way so I could go back stock if i needed to. Connected the other end to the alternator and again on the alternator wrapped and tied the end up along the factory wire look out of the way.

Reconnected the battery, checked everything over, unlocked the car and tried starting it. Click click click like a dead battery.

Got out a shop light traced the factory positive again and found a large power wire on the starter but could not trace to where it connected to the factory positive alternator wire it's buried somewhere in that loom! I'm not taking the factory wiring harness apart to find it either! Reconnected the factory alternator wire at the alternator and battery leaving my ground setup and it fired right up.

So it looks like I will have to keep the factory positive alternator/battery connected and piggy back the zero gauge. This should still serve the purpose without having to tear apart the factory wire loom on top of the engine. The bad news is the 2 factory wires at the positive battery terminal are too short to cut and put ring adapters to make a neat clean connection to my positive battery terminal. I ended up having to flatten the tabs and run the bolt through them on top of the terminal which looks like crap.

As soon as the stereo shop opens going over to get another ring adapter, some zero gauge heat shrink and look at other battery terminals or find a better way to connect the factory wires to the positive terminal. Right now everything looks clean and is functional it's just that positive battery terminal with two factory wires on it looks bad... So once I get that ironed out then I'll take photo's of everything to give you some ideas.

Just have to do a bit of running around to figure out a better way to run the wires at the positive battery terminal.

 

Good update so far. A couple of speed bumps are surely expected on something like this, luckily it's nothing major and nothing was fried or permanent. I kind of figure doubling up the existing wires would be a better route, (instead of out-right replacing them.) Pictures will also add so much more to the description when your certain you have it all ironed out.
I have most of the supplies needed to do this, but really haven't had a chance to do much. I did replace the battery and terminals with what should work out well. I'll post a pic of that soon. I also am considering to put it off until I replace my intake to allow for more room to work.
Keep me updated.

 

Okay, cleaned everything up after doing some shopping today and I'm now completely done. Here are the photo's of the installation.

http://flic.kr/p/cxc2Xd

http://flic.kr/p/cxc6us

http://flic.kr/p/cxc65L

http://flic.kr/p/cxc3ky

http://flic.kr/p/cxc5Ko

http://flic.kr/p/cxc5mL

http://flic.kr/p/cxc4Xb

http://flic.kr/p/cxc4uL

http://flic.kr/p/cxc487

http://flic.kr/p/cxc3J9

I haven't checked my voltage yet will look for my multimeter tomorrow after cleaning the garage.

Initial observations are that I cannot really notice any difference. I will do a voltage test tomorrow to see if my efforts were worth it, hope to see good voltage with little to know drop with ac, lights, stereo going. Will post results.

 

Okay, tested the voltage output at the battery with a multimeter yesterday afternoon.

On idle without anything powered up I'm showing 14.5 volts, would have liked to have seen 14.7 but thats dependant on the electrical system and alternator.

When I turn on the stereo I still see 14.5 volts which again is good.

Then I turn on the headlights and fog lights (stock) and it drops to 14.3 volts.

Then I turn on the AC wide open with the fan on 4 and it drops to 14.2

With headlights, fogs, ac wide open, fan on 4, and the stereo cranked up a near max my voltage is sitting at 14.2 which with minimal drop of .3 volts with everything off.

I only wish I had dug and found the multimeter to test the system prior to doing the wiring upgrade.

Anyone out there test there voltages in the same manner that might be able to tell me what they are running at stock voltage?

I may go to my neighbors house and test his but he has a stock stereo with no amps installed, it would still give me an idea anyway.

Regardless I'm pretty happy with the installation and with my voltage at the battery right now so I suppose it's all good.

 

Good job on this. If you do get around to getting a stock reading, please post it for comparison.