Okay- I have had a 2012 for less than a month and the lack of anything besides a muffled mumble from the rear speakers sent me in search of my first DIY mod.

I purchased JBL GTO628 6.5-Inch 2-Way Loudspeakers for the back- and got them in.

The OEM Audio Plus Reference 400CF pdf was invaluable and anyone looking to do any audio mods need look no further than this detailed pdf. Even if you are not installing their stuff just being able to see how to remove everything is great.

Well- the job was not bad- got in both side no prob, removed the old speaker- didn't realized that I would not be able to reuse the harness from the old speaker- so do yourself a fav and pick a set up prior to.

To the JBL- very nice rig, well made- can change the direction of the tweet and it has a -3db push button.

The one glitch- the bracket only connects at two of the 3 factory holes- from where the old speaks came. I was able to drill a small hole and compression washer/ nut and bolt the third mount in place with some foam padding underneath and at the point of connection to prevent any possible buzz. I hate jerry rigging, but had to in this case.

Post install- I am getting used to a much rounder sound. There is actually quality music coming from the rear seats- and that's with the fade at 1/2 and 1/2. I think it sounds better with a one notch shift to the back as these speakers are really clear. I am not a bass head and do not need a ton of bump- these really accentuate mids and vocal range while still carrying some bass.

My question- I want to upgrade my front large speakers and was thinking about the same brand's 6x9s. I noticed on the aforementioned pdf that the factory speakers appear to be 6.5s? (It says remove old 6x9's) They clearly look round to me in the pic. I keep hearing everyone refer to them as 6x9s- so I am confused. Whats the real deal? Also looks like they are riveted in. Anyone with any experience in these? Can I just use a heavier gauge screw vs a rivet??

Thanks!

 

The 3 door speakers are 6x9, 3.5", and a tweeter. the 6x9s are just bass drivers though so replaceing them with a full range speaker will result in an unwanted sound.

 

Most speaker panels in all vehicles will be round. An oval panel would look just weird. A lot of Mazda and Ford's have round panels but the actual speaker is a 5x7/6x8.

As for the Scion, it is a 6x9. A excellent website to go too for information regarding speaker sizes (for any vehicle, fyi) is www.metraonline.com It'll tell you how big each speaker is in the front and back, as well as the depth.

As far as the front I totally recommend putting in a 3-way component set vs a 2 way. Not that you can't do a 2-way but not many cars come stock with 3-way setups that don't require fabrication of pods to make them work.

As far as the rivets, it looks like you have to drill them out. You can buy adapters if you decide (and I recommend) using 6 1/2 component set and yes you can use screws. I plan on making custom baffles out of Birchwood or MDF for my 3-way set I'm putting in my car and I won't use rivets.

 

this has actually been on my mind for quite some time. The rear is obvious and easily done. But finding exactly waht i wanted for the fronts has made me need to think just a little bit harder. DO you think these would work for the front?


he C5-653 system features 6.5-inch (165 mm) component woofers with Kurt Müller cones and suspensions and die-cast alloy baskets. The woofer design benefits from JL Audio's vast woofer design experience and advanced modeling systems.The 4-inch (100 mm) midrange drivers also benefit from Kurt Müller cones and suspensions and are built on a stamped steel chassis with removable mounting tabs. This allows them to be installed in a variety of mounting applications.
The C5 component tweeters are built with 0.75-inch silk dome diaphragms that deliver smooth, extended response, on and off axis. Flush-mounting and surface-mounting fixtures are included to fit a wide variety of installation needs. The flush-mount fixtures feature our RSR (Ratcheting Swivel Rotation) mechanism to allow precise tweeter aiming after installation.

 

I'm sure they would. I haven't taken the panels off yes to have a good look on the inside but the only problem I forsee is having something bigger then a 1" tweeter. Other then that everything should go in perfectly. With the exception of going from 6x9 to 6 1/2 on the mid-bass. Adapters are easy to make and you can buy them online if you want too.

As far as your choice, I personally don't care for JL's loud speakers. I was never impressed with any component set they offered. Even the highest end set was really boring to me. I was never impressed. They make great subs and have excellent quality control for anything they make. Especially their amps.

That is my opinion though. Car audio is extremely subjective and there are a variety of factors that determine what you should get. Most specifically is the type of music you listen too. Best bet would be to go and demo some speakers at your local audio store. Setup a budget and go from there. Listen to as many different brands as you can.

Good brands: Hertz, Focal, Audison, Zapco, Image Dynamics (use too, until Eric Stevens left), Arc Audio, Morel, Hybrid Audio Technologies, CDT Audio, MMats, Rainbow..

Edit: This is also my personal opinion. Unless you have people riding in the back seat with you quite often (kids, friends, whatever) I wouldn't even worry about doing anything in the back. I would spend the money on putting even better speakers in the front and amplifying them. In my 08' Mazda 6 I didn't even have speakers in the back doors. Haha. :-)

 

What is ur actual question i replaced all mine front to back text me ill help u out 215 932 4903