Okay, craiglist seller met me today with a 10W7 JL Audio sub in a sealed enclosure. I connected it to my JL 500/1 in the back and closed the hatch for a listening session.

HOLY CRAP, the W7 Pounds cranked I was worried about the back hatch glass breaking, but surprisingly nothing rattled in the car with the dynamat job i did (stinger roadkill). I really wanted to buy the sub as it performed so well but the poser side of me couldn't take the ragged looking box or the glue on the surround or hole in it. It wasn't too bad but I know i would have to recarpet or get another enclosure, then send the sub off to JL to have it repaired and by the time I was done it would be in the 400 dollar range... not worth the money. After we we're done I put hooked my W3 up and it sounds smooth and clean, not as loud but still impressive.

I think I'm going to look for a good JL 10W6 as it would be a direct replacement and fit in my current enclosure perfectly. Also I've read that for SQ the W6 is a little better than the W7 for but sheer pounding bass that doesn't let up, the W7 would be hard to beat and in a scion TC with 500 or more watts totally obnoxious!

 

i have an alpine type r 10 in a custom ported box that a local car audio shop made for me. its made to max manufacture specs. it can hold up to 1800 watts but i'm throwing 1000 at it and it is amazing! crystal clear, tight, solid bass. definately worth the money. jl was my 2nd choice but i decided to go all alpine type r.

 

Hey bud, JL W6v2 will kill.

I have:
JL 500/1v2
JL 12W6v2 in sealed box to JL specs.

Sounds fantastic and the SQ is phenomenal. I had a 12W7 in my previous ride and it was downright monstrous, but the 12W6v2 is soooo much cleaner. At moderate volumes, my system just sounds like a very good factory system you'd find in a luxury car. But when you crank it up, it hits hard but still clean.

If you choose that 10W6v2, you WON'T be disappointed. I've been turned into a JL snob and JL is the only audio product that will ever touch the trunk of any car I buy.

 

Steve,

I found a 10W6 locally and am going to pick it up on Monday or Tuesday. $200 bucks and it's super clean looks like new. Will test it in the car before buying. Will sell my 10W3 on the craigs list probably for 100-125. It's funny I had the JL 10W1 in a sealed with 300 watts, then upgraded the amp to the JL 500/1 and got a great deal on 10W3 and was amazed at the difference now doing another swap to the 10W6 which should be awesome.

 

Upgraded the sub today to the 10W6 and you were right Steve, paired with the JL 500/1 the SQ is AMAZING. No more upgrading subs, this is the one!

 

anybody rocking the 12" W3v3? Specifially the JL sealed box. CS112RG-W3v3: Single 12W3v3 PowerWedge, Sealed, 2 Ω?

 

I upgraded from the 10W3v3-4 to the 10W6. The 10W3 was excellent and I was 100% happy with it. The only reason i upgraded to the W6 is I had some extra money and found a good deal and also was concerned that over time the W3 would have issues being pushed by the 500/1. Check JL specs on the sub and recommended RMS watts. I'll bet the 12 would sound good but the box required is a bit taller. The 10W3 or 10W6 uses a smaller box less weight and saves trunk area space while still providing more than enough bass to fill the car. The W6 pounds though and is over the top with the 500/1 amp, you would be amazed.

I haven't heard the Alpine R sub in a scion TC yet but would like to, everything I've read on it says it's a really good sub.

If you can swing the 10W6 though it is louder and you will be amazed... I also looked at the RE audio, Memphis, and Sundown Audio subs as well. Don't hesitate on looking at a used one. I got my 10W6 which is in mint like new condition for 200 bucks (speaker and grill only). I am also using a 1.25 cf airspace ported box. I have tried ported and sealed and prefer the ported for the music I listen to.

I also keep toying with the ideal of getting a single ported pro box which is a bit longer, more airspace, and will go a bit deeper in frequency.