Led Wiring: This is killin me pls help
Im a new member to this site, just bought a TC2 a month ago.
Anyways can someone please try and explain why my switch nor my Leds are receiving power. Iv looked up hundreds of threads on different sites to find similar set ups and have followed each and still no luck. The toggle switch illuminates when on. I'm trying to take power from the interior fuse block with an Add-a-circuit, it was a 5amp fuse labeled ACC. My wiring is exactly as the diagram is below if you cant tell by the pictures (small space + blazing sun = bad pictures)




Thanks, All help appreciated.
Anyways can someone please try and explain why my switch nor my Leds are receiving power. Iv looked up hundreds of threads on different sites to find similar set ups and have followed each and still no luck. The toggle switch illuminates when on. I'm trying to take power from the interior fuse block with an Add-a-circuit, it was a 5amp fuse labeled ACC. My wiring is exactly as the diagram is below if you cant tell by the pictures (small space + blazing sun = bad pictures)




Thanks, All help appreciated.
Wire the +12v & Ground from the battery/fuse panel to the switch, this will provide the switch Led power when turned on. Then wire the +12 & - Ground from the LED your installing to the switch. All the switch does is stop the 12v from passing to the LEDs or device.
Do you have a test light? Its a thing that looks like a screwdriver with a lightbulb inside and a clamp on a cord coming out of the bottom. Put the clamp on a grounded location (metal part of the car's chassis) and check your connections for power. Start at the add a fuse thing and work your way towards your leds.
You probably need to ground the switch separately from the leds. Really there are several other flaws in your design.
1.Your leds should be grounded to the chassis as close to them as you reasonably can.
2.Your positive power should come through a relay that is switched on by the ignition (not a requirement, its just safer) especially if the light on your switch stays on all of the time (on/off) as it will be a parasitic drain on your battery.
3. It may not be working precisely because you ran your ground for the leds back to the switch.
You need to re-check your connections if you used a crimping tool as they sometimes can be problematic. I had to re-do a couple of connections on a radio I did for a friend, even after using a true crimping tool.
You probably need to ground the switch separately from the leds. Really there are several other flaws in your design.
1.Your leds should be grounded to the chassis as close to them as you reasonably can.
2.Your positive power should come through a relay that is switched on by the ignition (not a requirement, its just safer) especially if the light on your switch stays on all of the time (on/off) as it will be a parasitic drain on your battery.
3. It may not be working precisely because you ran your ground for the leds back to the switch.
You need to re-check your connections if you used a crimping tool as they sometimes can be problematic. I had to re-do a couple of connections on a radio I did for a friend, even after using a true crimping tool.
^^^^ X2. i stopped with the crimp a while ago. too many issues. if you know how to solder, i would go that route. you either have a bad connection, the little fuse on the add-a-circuit is blown, or maybe even a bad switch. my money is on bad ground connection.
if you want to test the switch itself (with out any wires attached), you can use an ohm meter (radio shack - $15). put the meter leads on the + and acc connections (top and center leads i think). toggle the switch on and you should get a 0 or slightly higher reading (0.2-0.5). if it reads real high or "open" then the switch is trash
you can also check the ground on the switch itself by using the same method above, but this time, you should get about a 30 ohm reading between the acc and ground with the switch on.
i recently verified this on a 12v, 20amp switch so i hope this helps!
if you want to test the switch itself (with out any wires attached), you can use an ohm meter (radio shack - $15). put the meter leads on the + and acc connections (top and center leads i think). toggle the switch on and you should get a 0 or slightly higher reading (0.2-0.5). if it reads real high or "open" then the switch is trash
you can also check the ground on the switch itself by using the same method above, but this time, you should get about a 30 ohm reading between the acc and ground with the switch on.
i recently verified this on a 12v, 20amp switch so i hope this helps!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
SJMiller
Scion xB 2nd-Gen Owners Lounge
0
Sep 12, 2015 06:33 PM






