Sub/Amp Install Pics Thread
http://www.toyotapartszone.com/oem/toyota~cover~assy~tonneau~64910-21070-B2.html
$121 Shipped
Same part # as the Scion 2011 TC which is 64910-21070-B2
Although with the damn 2012 tc issues addressed from Toyota... youd think they'd offer this thing to us 2011 tc owners for free.
$121 Shipped
Same part # as the Scion 2011 TC which is 64910-21070-B2
Although with the damn 2012 tc issues addressed from Toyota... youd think they'd offer this thing to us 2011 tc owners for free.
They don't need to hand us anything for free. We all voluntarily purchased this car with one reverse light. If they admitted they made a mistake or issued a recall, that would be one thing...but neither of those are the case.
It didn't seem like they openly admitted the mistake with the Premium Alpine HU which was never recalled yet you CAN replace it for a fully functioning unit at the dealership. There isn't any official document you can print out even at Toyota on their system about the HU issue. The only form of reference about this issue besides these forums is calling corporate and making a case # which you can then provide to the dealership.
Think about the comparison here.... The radio issue involves bass not playing out of 1 side. The reverse light is light not illuminating out of 1 side. It comes down to Bass vs Light.
It's kind of obvious that the issue was addressed since the 2012 models will have dual reverse lights and a fully functioning premium Alpine HU from the factory.
Think about the comparison here.... The radio issue involves bass not playing out of 1 side. The reverse light is light not illuminating out of 1 side. It comes down to Bass vs Light.
It's kind of obvious that the issue was addressed since the 2012 models will have dual reverse lights and a fully functioning premium Alpine HU from the factory.
Think about the comparison here.... The radio issue involves bass not playing out of 1 side. The reverse light is light not illuminating out of 1 side. It comes down to Bass vs Light.
It's kind of obvious that the issue was addressed since the 2012 models will have dual reverse lights and a fully functioning premium Alpine HU from the factory.
It's kind of obvious that the issue was addressed since the 2012 models will have dual reverse lights and a fully functioning premium Alpine HU from the factory.
Just incase anyone was having problems securing their box so it wont slide during normal driving, what I have done in the past that I think works very well is just to go to Wal-Mart and buy some velcro that has the glue on it. Stick the hook side (the non fuzzy side) to the bottom of the box and let it sit for a bit then just put it in the trunk area. My box never slides anywhere and it look way cleaner than using bungie cords. I hope this helps someone out.
Just incase anyone was having problems securing their box so it wont slide during normal driving, what I have done in the past that I think works very well is just to go to Wal-Mart and buy some velcro that has the glue on it. Stick the hook side (the non fuzzy side) to the bottom of the box and let it sit for a bit then just put it in the trunk area. My box never slides anywhere and it look way cleaner than using bungie cords. I hope this helps someone out.
The carpet on my box actually sticks like glue to the Scion trunk mat I have back there, so luckily I don't need anything now.
I can confirm that the Velcro trick works very well. I've been using it for years without problems. I choose to use a non stick Velcro however. In the summer heat the glue tends to get soft and can sometimes cause it to smear all over your box and carpet. I use a non stick back held in with some sturdy staples.
You can cover up the box with the Scion hatch cover thing that goes for $120... therefore noone will see it regardless.
I've used a floor mat from a different car which i laid the sub onto of which held it quite firmly inplace without sliding. The floormat has teeth so it won't move.
I've used a floor mat from a different car which i laid the sub onto of which held it quite firmly inplace without sliding. The floormat has teeth so it won't move.
If you don't have the box/amp mounted physically to the car, and they're stolen, if you can't prove that they were secured down, they will NOT reimburse you for them, FYI. I installed car audio for 4 years and when they would come to us to perform an inspection of a car that was broken into, if we didn't see that they were screwed down, we had to note it, and basically the customer was then SOL as far as the amp, subs, capacitors, etc went. It's ridiculous I know, but insurance companies will do anything to not have to pay out.
Oh, and once I get my 12" Kicker L5 in sealed box (smaller than the one posted above) and my 400watt kicker amp, and 4 channel Eclipse amp, with my eclipse CD3200 installed, i'll post some picks, should be sickkkkk
Oh, and once I get my 12" Kicker L5 in sealed box (smaller than the one posted above) and my 400watt kicker amp, and 4 channel Eclipse amp, with my eclipse CD3200 installed, i'll post some picks, should be sickkkkk
I had my car for 10 years and noone broke into. It was all because I went to a club one night and played my system loud in the parking lot when the club went out. Everyone else was doing it so I joined it to impress someone like a fool. 2 days later the car was stolen.
I had my subbox/sub stolen along with deck unit, custom seats, aftermarket steering wheel, custom wheels and 1 Amp. Everything was bolted down except the subbox/Sub. After some extensive researching online, I found the thief and charged him for the items that my insurance company couldn't compensate me since with Progressive by default, they only go up to $1k of Custom Parts without it affecting your premium each 6 month term.
The custom parts I had actually exceeded $1k therefore I had to take a loss on some things as it was. In the case I was in, it wouldn't have mattered if the box/sub was bolted or not since the big items just to get the car on the road again mattered the most. Eventually the car was declared a total loss and I got the depreciated vale + $1k custom for it in the form of a check which I then put towards the TC2.
With Progressive, if you increase the Custom Parts Value then your premium increases depending on how high you go beyond the $1k. I don't know how other companies are but, that's Progressive. They are the cheapest for me where I live.
In my TC2, everything is bolted down except Sub/Subbox. Those are very minor to me. Only a $40 for box and $60 for sub. Mere $100... not enough to justify permanently reducing hatch space. I also take precautions now so I don't alert thieves such as turning down volume when I'm near other vehicles in heavy congested traffic and keeping the car somewhat stock looking with amps under the seats. I have the plastic hatch cover on the inside which covers the sub/box so anyone with a light looking in cars won't see the item worth stealing which is usually what happens the most.
All depends on what you want to do. It's a real headache to deal with the process with the insurance company and authorities if something happens. If you are going all out on custom equipment then I'd diffidently bolt things down every which way you can. There is also the Viper Smartstart which for $50 a year, it will txt your phone using any GSM tower anytime your alarm trips after the course of 1 minute. If you get good GSM coverage and find $50 annual to be worth it then that's something to think about. It's not always 100% guaranteed, but it's alot better than not having it if you do have an enormous amount of customized parts on your vehicle.
I had my subbox/sub stolen along with deck unit, custom seats, aftermarket steering wheel, custom wheels and 1 Amp. Everything was bolted down except the subbox/Sub. After some extensive researching online, I found the thief and charged him for the items that my insurance company couldn't compensate me since with Progressive by default, they only go up to $1k of Custom Parts without it affecting your premium each 6 month term.
The custom parts I had actually exceeded $1k therefore I had to take a loss on some things as it was. In the case I was in, it wouldn't have mattered if the box/sub was bolted or not since the big items just to get the car on the road again mattered the most. Eventually the car was declared a total loss and I got the depreciated vale + $1k custom for it in the form of a check which I then put towards the TC2.
With Progressive, if you increase the Custom Parts Value then your premium increases depending on how high you go beyond the $1k. I don't know how other companies are but, that's Progressive. They are the cheapest for me where I live.
In my TC2, everything is bolted down except Sub/Subbox. Those are very minor to me. Only a $40 for box and $60 for sub. Mere $100... not enough to justify permanently reducing hatch space. I also take precautions now so I don't alert thieves such as turning down volume when I'm near other vehicles in heavy congested traffic and keeping the car somewhat stock looking with amps under the seats. I have the plastic hatch cover on the inside which covers the sub/box so anyone with a light looking in cars won't see the item worth stealing which is usually what happens the most.
All depends on what you want to do. It's a real headache to deal with the process with the insurance company and authorities if something happens. If you are going all out on custom equipment then I'd diffidently bolt things down every which way you can. There is also the Viper Smartstart which for $50 a year, it will txt your phone using any GSM tower anytime your alarm trips after the course of 1 minute. If you get good GSM coverage and find $50 annual to be worth it then that's something to think about. It's not always 100% guaranteed, but it's alot better than not having it if you do have an enormous amount of customized parts on your vehicle.
Last edited by oblivionlord; Mar 30, 2012 at 02:05 AM.
Ok so I have a question. I know very little about subs and amps. I have a Rockford Fosgate punch p200 amp I had two kenwood 10s that It pushed before. Im not looking to vibrate all the cars around me I just want to add that little bit of extra sound so I was looking at this sub to run with the amp. any thoughts on this combo? PS please keep replys simple as I said I dont know a lot about this stuff.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...?from=857-1-49
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...?from=857-1-49
old setup - 3x jl audio 8" w7 subs

new setup - focal 16" 40kx subwoofer


sub powered by audison sr1dk. focal 165 krx3 3 ways up front powered by audison sr4, bi-amped. focal ic165 in rear powered by head unit, pioneer avhp4300dvd
obviously not finished trimming it all out. waiting to have the time to finish it

new setup - focal 16" 40kx subwoofer


sub powered by audison sr1dk. focal 165 krx3 3 ways up front powered by audison sr4, bi-amped. focal ic165 in rear powered by head unit, pioneer avhp4300dvd
obviously not finished trimming it all out. waiting to have the time to finish it
@topher86
That will work well Topher.
@goose_119
Have you noticed any door sag with the added weight? I was gonna add a layer of MLV in my doors but wasn't sure if the hinges would support the extra weight.
That will work well Topher.
@goose_119
Have you noticed any door sag with the added weight? I was gonna add a layer of MLV in my doors but wasn't sure if the hinges would support the extra weight.





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